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Refinishing Question

hadjiihadjii Member Posts: 976 ✭✭
edited January 2006 in Ask the Experts
I don't know a whole lot about this as I have never had a gun refinished. Can you have a stainless/nickel gun refinished? If so anyone know a ball park figure on what it costs?[?]

Comments

  • hadjiihadjii Member Posts: 976 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    So I'm working on a stock that has high gloss poly on it. I filled in all the dings with super glue sanded them flat and poly coated. I used a foam brush. It looks very very good.

    My question there are a couple very faint streaks, can they be polished or buffed out, with a soft cloth or do I need to try to touch up with another coat of poly?
  • hadjiihadjii Member Posts: 976 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Can somebody tell me the right way to seal the checkering on a gunstock without filling up the checkering itself? I am using boiled linseed oil on the stock itself, but am not sure how to do the checkering. I want to keep the checkering a flat finish, not a shiny finish. Thanks
  • Bill CostikBill Costik Member Posts: 1,845 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tape over it all and cut the tape away at the edge of the checkering? Light touch with the knife though. Just a guess, not sure if it would work, don't see why not though.
  • FrogbertFrogbert Member Posts: 2,380 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The checkering is just a detail cut into the wood of the stock. Use the same oil on all the wood including the checkering. Let it soak in a few hours, and then wipe it tight (completely dry) with cheap paper towels. Wad the paper towels up and use a medium firm, back-and-forth brushing action on the checkering and you won't be left with any build-up, and you won't damage the checkering, or have any bright shininess.

    Note: The checkering sort of shreds up the wadded paper towel, which is good. The fuzzy surface of the pad gets between the high points.

    By the way, don't wad those used towels up and throw them in the trash. The oil heats up as it cures and can cause spontaneous combustion in a wad of paper towels, or cloth ones for that matter.
    Put the used towels into a can full of water overnight, and discard them wet into the dumpster tomorrow.
  • hadjiihadjii Member Posts: 976 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thank You Frogbert. Good information you gave me there. I'll do it just the way you described.
  • MadmanMadman Member Posts: 601 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ...you might find an old toothbrush works just fine. Been doin that way for many years and it leaves you with a good soaking and yet sharp checkering. Wipe excess dry and off you go. I use Dembart "checkering oil".

    Paul
    Mountain Magic Gunsmithing
  • D.S.COLED.S.COLE Member Posts: 611 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    when Im doing a stock thats checkered I put masking tape over the checkered sections . after applying the tape and pressing it into place run a razor tip around the border lines and peel it off around the edges so that all thats covered is the checkered part. after sanding,filling, and applying your finish to satisfaction on the rest and its dry ,peel the tape from the checkered part and like madman says an old tooth brush with a drop or two of finish on it rubbed through the checkering gives it all it needs but doesnt fill up the cuts.
    This has worked fine for me for a long time.
  • FrogbertFrogbert Member Posts: 2,380 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I agree that the checkering needs to be protected if you are sanding.

    hadjii didn't mention sanding, only applying oil.
  • rlnblkrlnblk Member Posts: 130 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Agree with madman, I have used the dembart checkering oil with good results.
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