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Lock Tite II
sandwarrior
Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
quote:Originally posted by v35
I bought a used Mod 70 243 with a 4x Lupold. For my needs this caliber warrants a higher magnification, variable power scope.
Not one single screw on the rings will move and the front ring wont turn on the Redfield style Leupold mount.
I haven't worked up enough nerve yet to start applying heat but that's the only solution.
Loctite really secures threaded parts so you should be sure you need a permanent assembly.
I just saw this and will add my $.02. I sometimes have toluol(toluolene) on hand to loosen up the blue locktite. It works on the red locktite as well just not as fast or as much. But it will allow you to start loosening screws.
The thing you have to remember about both of them is they are a plastic that gets a mechanical hold in the parts they are working within. Therefore, a solid, clean attachment from tool to fastener will break loose because it's softer than the metal. Same with Epoxy. At least if it's steel parts you are working with. It's not like some chemical adhesives that actually form a chemical bond from surface to surface of the two parts. If there is something there that did that you are going to have to sacrifice something (screws for sure, rings...maybe?) I know some types of JB weld will do that to aluminum. If that was used on aluminum rings then you've got a bad deal going.
ADDED:
quote:Originally posted by Emmett Dunham
Acetone will loosen up Loc-Tite but getting down into the threads might be a problem. If the rings are tapped all the way through you might get the acetone to wick into the treads there. I have herd that a lot of people use automatic transmission fluid and acetone mixture to make penetrating oil and the acetone is the wicking agent that carries the oil into the threads. You can use nail polish to lock threads, it can be used on anything you put together and the price is right!
Emmett
Skydrol cleans that stuff right out...if you can stand it. Amazingly, (I don't believe it) it's not toxic.
I bought a used Mod 70 243 with a 4x Lupold. For my needs this caliber warrants a higher magnification, variable power scope.
Not one single screw on the rings will move and the front ring wont turn on the Redfield style Leupold mount.
I haven't worked up enough nerve yet to start applying heat but that's the only solution.
Loctite really secures threaded parts so you should be sure you need a permanent assembly.
I just saw this and will add my $.02. I sometimes have toluol(toluolene) on hand to loosen up the blue locktite. It works on the red locktite as well just not as fast or as much. But it will allow you to start loosening screws.
The thing you have to remember about both of them is they are a plastic that gets a mechanical hold in the parts they are working within. Therefore, a solid, clean attachment from tool to fastener will break loose because it's softer than the metal. Same with Epoxy. At least if it's steel parts you are working with. It's not like some chemical adhesives that actually form a chemical bond from surface to surface of the two parts. If there is something there that did that you are going to have to sacrifice something (screws for sure, rings...maybe?) I know some types of JB weld will do that to aluminum. If that was used on aluminum rings then you've got a bad deal going.
ADDED:
quote:Originally posted by Emmett Dunham
Acetone will loosen up Loc-Tite but getting down into the threads might be a problem. If the rings are tapped all the way through you might get the acetone to wick into the treads there. I have herd that a lot of people use automatic transmission fluid and acetone mixture to make penetrating oil and the acetone is the wicking agent that carries the oil into the threads. You can use nail polish to lock threads, it can be used on anything you put together and the price is right!
Emmett
Skydrol cleans that stuff right out...if you can stand it. Amazingly, (I don't believe it) it's not toxic.
Comments
Use a soldering iron held against the screw head. Don't have a soldering iron? Sacrifice a cheap screwdriver-heat it on the kitchen stove or propane torch and hold on screw head. Grind a tip on a bolt to heat and hold against screw head.
DO NOT USE A TORCH!!!!!!
DO NOT USE A TORCH!!!!!
Use a soldering iron held against the screw head. Don't have a soldering iron? Sacrifice a cheap screwdriver-heat it on the kitchen stove or propane torch and hold on screw head. Grind a tip on a bolt to heat and hold against screw head.
DO NOT USE A TORCH!!!!!!
+1 Works every time.
Of interest, I ordered the stuff off eBay and it came in its little squeeze bottle - with no instructions. I went to the Loctite website for it. Good thing I did because there are important specifcs. I recco anyone serious about the various Loctite types go to the website. A huge amount of info there.
Red somewhat of a chance of removal, tho probably lots of
profanity and damaged screw head and ego
Green Abandon all hope, ye who enter here. Most likely will
destroy some or all of parts
With the Red being the highest tensile strength, followed by the green, then the blue. A short 5-10 second burst with a propane torch will eliminate the grip of red loctite. It is no big deal to use a torch, but if you can get by with lesser items, and a little more time, then dio it your way. I just prefer the quick on, and off heat, to lessen the chance of heat transfer to other valuable parts. The carbon wipes right off too.
The blue and green adheasives will come loose with a WELL fitted too. When I say well fitted, I don't mean TASCO rings, or bases, in conjunction with the allen wrench they supply. More like a t20, and a good fitting wrench to match.
Best
Emmett