firing pin or spring

choochooman

Have a mod. c olympic made by the page lewis arms co. (in business from 1920 to 1926) then bought by savage..the gun is a falling block .22,similar ro a stevens favorite ..it takes 2 or 3 strikes of the hammer for a round to go off. I've stretched the spring under the hammer to no avail..was wondering if the pin could be soldered on and ground off to form a new end,or would the solder not take to the metal? the pin is in the falling block and held in place by a cross pin that fits in a cutout in the pin,then a smaller pin end goes out the front of the falling block to strike the shell..the hammer hits the back side of the pin at the back of the falling block ..it just floats in the block,has no spring on it..any suggestions or help would be appreciated?

gunnut505

I have "fixed" many older, light-striking .22's by removing the firing pin, placing it flat on a piece of railroad track, and lengthening it by peening both sides till it grows a coupla hundredths. Don't grow it too much, or the pin may not fit back into the action.

If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!

v35

Somehow, I think the firing pin should be a one piece unit and has broken. Take the crosspin out and examine the pieces but first see how much the firing pin protrudes from the breechblock face when the rear is pushed flush with the back of the breechblock. It should protrude just short of striking the chamber. Forget solder on firing pins. If you have to make a new f.p. tip find a H.S. number drill of the correct size, cut off the rear and braze it or press fit it into the f.p. body and grind to length.

choochooman

in response to my question and suggestions for repair .. pin is a one piece unit,maybe I should have stated that..also as for peening it ..the whole pin is only approx. 3/4" long,not tapered,with the very tip that protrudes through the falling block being only 4/32" long and 3/32" thick.the body of the pin is 6/32" thick with a cut out along it's side of 1/4" for the retaining pin to go across it to hold it in place..hope this paints a better picture..it's hard to explain,thanks again..

v35

There are two possibilities here. Either the firing pin is too short or the hammer spring is too weak. First check firing pin protrusion from the front of the breechblock when the back of the firing pin is flush with the rear of the breechblock . It should be over 1/32" and less than 1/16".If the protrusion is ok then your spring is too weak.If you need a spring try to match it up at a good hardware store. You will need to match up the wire size & spring diameter and look for a little more space between coils. You can cut a longer spring down to match the number of coils of the original. The length should be greater the original which will have settled so dont match the length unless you go to a larger wire size.
If the firing pin protrusion is less than the above, check if the rear of the firing pin will go below flush when the retaining cross pin is in and when its out. If it only goes below flush when its out, then file the rear of the slot in the firing pin to give you no more than 1/16" front protrusion and try the gun. The firing pin should be very free in the breechblock with all burrs removed.
My understanding of the firing pin is that it has a 3/32 diameter tip, a 3/16 diameter body and is 3/4 long. I assume the tip is not concentric with the body. This part can be easily made from a 3/16 diameter GRADE 8 bolt or hex head capscrew with a hacksaw and small files. If the firing pin body is concentric with the tip then it's easier. You can make it in the chuck of an electric drill with a file.

choochooman

thanks to v35...the options you gave sound like at least one should work..I've been out of town but this weekend I'll do some measuring and a test fire to see if the little grinding of the slot did any good ..if not I may try to take a little off the flat behind the pin protrusion itself,to see if I can get a little more..thanks again..from all the websights that I've been attempting not too many of these are around..The only thing I,hate to do too much grinding in case I have to go to a gunsmith to have one made and not have a correct model to go by..

choochooman

thanks to v35...the options you gave sound like at least one should work..I've been out of town but this weekend I'll do some measuring and a test fire to see if the little grinding of the slot did any good ..if not I may try to take a little off the flat behind the pin protrusion itself,to see if I can get a little more..thanks again..from all the websights that I've been attempting not too many of these are around..The only thing I,hate to do too much grinding in case I have to go to a gunsmith to have one made and not have a correct model to go by..also to answer your question..the pin in the front is centered so the drill may be an option as a lathe, and a grinder to try to make the slot for the crosspin..a possibility..thanks again for all the help..Curt

Tailgunner1954

You have checked to make sure that the front of the firing pin hole isn't full of gack and grunge haven't you? Enough build up and it will stop the pin short, and or cushion it's fall causing a light hit.

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Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.

Delta514

Never Stretch a Spring, expecting long term results, Springs will return to their original size, (this is the uniqueness of Springs). The firing pin can be TIG welded by anyone fairly Proficient at welding. It will hold, but would require filing down to original length and size. Ace Hardware can supply a box of Springs in various sizes, and at minimum cost.

[^] I didn't read everyone elses input, but I hope I have been of some help.

Ronnie G. Perkins

captkirk3@dslextreme.com

I'm wondering if maybe everyone is addressing the wrong subject?..Its highly possible that the problem lies in the Metalurgy of the Cases..? The Cartridges ..... Back in the 20s/30s and 40s were of a softer Metal and was used in the manufacture of Cases....Could very well be that the Spring and Firing Pin are fine, and that the problem is the hardness of the Metal, Newer Ammo is made of..iconoclast should have the answer....he's up on this type of subject....TEAK...You out there?
What do You think..? Is it the Metal thats causing the problem...?

Captain Kirk, Tech Staff

Iconoclast

Captain, I appreciate your vote of confidence, but wouldn't assert expertise in this instance, for sure. Only thing I can add - in contravention of your idea - is that I've shot modern .22 ammo in several 1900 - 1940 rifles (including a Stevens) and a pre-1900 handgun with no problems. I don't believe the metallurgy has changed that much and brass cases were in use in rimfire ammo in the 1920s. I would lean more to a mechanical problem of the sort discussed above.

But, choochoo, before you begin mucking about with the spring and firing pin, it might be worth trying ammo from different manufacturers. There is quite a bit of variation in components and you might find the product(s) of some company(ies) will prove to be sure fire. And for sure I would make certain there was no foreign material which might be interfering with the firing pin mechanism - in many such instances, it's simply a matter of hardened lubricant / crud keeping a firing pin from traveling that crucial few .001" further or cushioning the blow.

captkirk3@dslextreme.com

It was just a thought....I've owned Floberts and a few old single shot Pistols like the early Stevens that refused to fire modern Rimfire cartridges...and found that the older and Softer case ammo fired just fine...wither its the Fulminate or the Case Hardness I don't know?....just a suspecion......Best.....Captain Kirk

Captain Kirk, Tech Staff