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Reduced Power Mainspring on S&W N Frame
redpete
Member Posts: 154 ✭✭✭
I have a S&W 625. I purchased some springs from Wolff springs. I put in the reduced power mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring.
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
Comments
Maybe a wad of leather for the spring to pinch to the frame?
I don't know of an intermediate mainspring.
Federal primers are more sensitive than other brands and are the usual thing for DA competition revolvers.
I own several pre lock and some pre number N & K frame models and have never had a problem using Wolf springs.
W.D.
I have a Wolfe "Power Rib" spring in my 625 and it pop,s Winchester primers all the time.
There is a tool, at least there was years ago, that is a piloted reamer to deepen the strain screw recess and thus apply more pressure to the mainspring. A few thou at a time til you have reliable ignition.
Also, be sure the primers are seated fully.
Good luck.
I have a S&W 625. I purchased some springs from Wolff springs. I put in the reduced power mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring.
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
The rebound spring doesn't have any effect on how hard the mainspring causes the hammer to strike the primer. You may find that returning to the factory issue mainspring while keeping the 11 lb trigger return spring causes the trigger to return slowly, or not at all. Polishing the action may cure the sluggishness, or using a 12 lb return spring instead.
Two other things to fiddle with - if you're using 45 ACP cases with moon clips switching to 45 AR cases may cure the problem. A shim between the front of the strain screw and the mainspring may give a bit more "oomph" to the strike. I've used a spent large primer (anvil removed) because it fits right over the screw base and won't travel.
I have a S&W 29-3 - a square butt pre lock .44, so I thought I would see what the difference was between the two guns.
The 29 with the square butt has a longer strain screw (by almost a tenth of an inch), so I put the longer screw in the 625. I am able to apply more pressure to the spring, so I think it will give me harder hits on the primers...now I just have to fiddle with it to find the sweet spot.
Is there any reason why this won't work?
Email if you do.