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Stock Refinishing Questions #2
hermiem
Member Posts: 261 ✭✭✭
Ok, thanks for the sandpaper suggestions. Now, I was discussing this project with my Dad who was a master cabinet maker - now retired many years. He suggested that before I do any sanding to actually chemically "strip" the existing finish. He then said to assemble the entire rifle, including centering and leveling the barrel. He THEN stated you look for places ALONG THE EDGES where to sand. AND to sand in a clean square edge to match the depth of the top of the metal. The big mistake people make is that the pre-sand the furniture and end up taking too much off and/or rounding the edges. The problem is that I'm having to make a decision to purchase stripper for oil stains or varnish or other types of finishes? He said the other option was to take the wood to a commercial furniture stripper. I've already got more into these 2 guns than I'll ever get out of them so what's a few $$$ more - LOL?!? Any thoughts, ideas recommendations for furniture strippers would be appreciated! Thanks - MIke
Comments
I've used Zip Strip for years, I scrub it when I put it on with a plastic bristle brush. I wash it off in my utility sink, using the brush to get all the stripper off. Repeat as needed, especially around checkering. The water will aid in raising dents, to be lightly sanded. Use a damp tea towel and an iron to steam out other dents and scratches.
I try to do a minimum of sanding, but, if you have to, do as you dad told you, along edges. I've done many stocks without sanding at all.
W.D.
Use guantlet rubber gloves and 0000 steel wool to remove the old finish, and than mineral spirits to clean up any residue with a rag.
If you can't find Formby's, use Zinsser Fast-Strip Furniture Stripper which will do the same thing only cheaper. You can assess the condition of the stock after stripping and determine if you want to forge ahead with sanding to get to perfection.
I use strippers and do very little sanding.
Let the stock dry thoroughly before starting to apply the finish.
The finished product will not be any better than the pre prep process which is the messy part, but once you have done a couple yourself you will no longer really dread doing another on your own stuff.
I like the Birchwood Caseys gunstock refinishing kit at about $15 using tru-oil mainly because if I get a scratch or ding I can easily do a repair blend without having to do a major refinish.
I can also control the finish as a high gloss and if too glossy take it down to a satin finish. I apply the tru oil using 1000 to 1200 wet dry sandpaper instead of finger and this eliminates having to use steel wool between coats. (the sandpaper when used lightly and wetted with tru-oil does the leveling. Read the instructions that comes with the kit 2 or 3 times before starting the application.
If the stock is oil soaked after doing the stripping of the old finish, use hot water, etc, to float out the old crud oil. (see you tube about such)
Note the parts about NOT sanding the checkering and do not apply finish to the checkering until final coat so as to leave the checkering sharp.
Shards of the wool can break off and imbed in the pores of the wood.
Wood always retains a minute amount of moisture which can corrode the steel which will leave discolored spots in the wood under the finish. Once this flyspecking develops you have no choice but to sand off an excess amount of wood to remove them.
quote:Originally posted by hermiem
Ok, thanks for the sandpaper suggestions. Now, I was discussing this project with my Dad who was a master cabinet maker - now retired many years. He suggested that before I do any sanding to actually chemically "strip" the existing finish. He then said to assemble the entire rifle, including centering and leveling the barrel. He THEN stated you look for places ALONG THE EDGES where to sand. AND to sand in a clean square edge to match the depth of the top of the metal. The big mistake people make is that the pre-sand the furniture and end up taking too much off and/or rounding the edges. The problem is that I'm having to make a decision to purchase stripper for oil stains or varnish or other types of finishes? He said the other option was to take the wood to a commercial furniture stripper. I've already got more into these 2 guns than I'll ever get out of them so what's a few $$$ more - LOL?!? Any thoughts, ideas recommendations for furniture strippers would be appreciated! Thanks - MIke