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Walther P-38

woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
edited June 2014 in Ask the Experts
I have a Walther P-38 "Zero" series, (1st production variation / serial number in the 1200's) I believe this pistol to be one of the very earliest test pistols manufactured in the series and I judge the finish to be about 75% TO 80% The weapon is fully functional / the mag and pistol are stamped identifyiing the pistol as Walther Waffenfabrik manufactured. All of the small parts that I can see are stamped "Eagle over 359". Can anyone out there help me to determine an approximate value of the pistol?
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am looking to find a replacement grip for my AC 41 Walther P-38. The grip on it is not an original and i would like to find an original AC 41 Grip. Does anyone know where i might find one?
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    This weapon is a bring-back" and has been in a drawer since 1945. It is serial #62xx and is like new-all numbers match. My question; this ac/43 is chromed with absolutely no flaking. Is it possible this chrome finish is original ?
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have an elderly friend that wants to sell a Walther P-38 with the original flap holster. It has the eagle stamp and 359 on all parts. It also has a serial number 1369 and what I'm guessing as a model number Ac41. Any info/value/ would be appreciated. One box of shells have been fired in it in the last 40 years.Thanks, Mark
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    When I was in the army in Germany,my CO wanted to sell me his P-38, but I could not get approval from Battalion Hqtrs. The BC said it was a dangerous weapon in that the sear was unreliable and the pistol could go full automatic. That same thing did happen to a friend and me while shooting his P-38, it went full auto and emptied the clip scaring the hell out of us. As he recalls now he says the gun had a lever which allowed it to go full auto, I disagree. I say the sear failed. Does the P-38 have a full auto selector?
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have one of these that was probably mfg. in the 60's, 9mm (ser.# 323---. The Serrated "pull back" striations on the one side of the slide are not perfect. Came this way bran new. Is this a detriment or might it make it more valuable??
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've recently been offered a supposedly unissued WW2, matching serial number Walther p-38, but I'm not sure of the price they want. No picture available, What might this item be worth ?
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  • woodchuckjohnwoodchuckjohn Member Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hey guys my friend stumbled upon his dad's old Walther P-38, and we were kinda curious about it's history and it's possible value, the serial # is 3709a byf44. Any info would be greatly apperciated.
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  • p3skykingp3skyking Member Posts: 23,916 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    SOMETHING failed, but only a few prototype P.38's had full auto capability.
    The majority of full auto problems are the crystalized and broken firing pin, not a sear problem.
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  • Ray BRay B Member Posts: 11,822
    edited November -1
    Regardless whether it's got a selector or not, if it starts shooting full-auto, if you take your finger off of the trigger, it should stop- unless it's like an M60 that I was assigned once- where when the trigger was pressed it started shooting and kept shooting even after I'd released the trigger, shooting rounds ranging from another five up to the remainder of the belt. I have a photograph somewhere of me demonstrating this to the armorer.
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  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Most likely, as previously suggested, a broken firing pin issue. It is a fairly common issue, with that era of semi-auto firearms. When heat treated, the firing pins were hardened too much, and the grain structure became dendritic, or crystalized.

    This could cause the firing pin to break, and wedge itself in the firing pin hole, with enough protruding, to act like an open bolt, on a Thompson 1927/1928/Mi. When the bolt closes, if there is a round in front of it, it is going to fire...finger pulling the trigger or not.

    One of the most notorious recalls in history, for this issue, was the Winchester Model 100 Semi-auto sporting rifle.

    Best
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I never had it happen to my P1, which is just the post war clone of the P-38. I have had it happen to a little .32 auto- Beretta 1934. Just as said, the firing pin got jammed forward and the recoil got it going. Turned out there was a small burr on the firing pin hole that, once trued up and oiled, solved the issue.

    Breaking sears is something I could see happening on a regular basis only with very late war production guns. I wouldn't worry about it.
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