S&W 686 Question

375H&H

Good afternoon everyone. I was looking at a S&W 686 3" a couple of days ago and was wondering if this gun is considered too large/heavy for concealed carry? If so, what would be the largest/heaviest revolver to consider for concealed carry? I already have a J frame, but was looking to size up. I really am impressed with the new night guard line of revolvers. Any suggestions on where to atart my search? Thanks.

375H&H

What would make the cylinder bind/hard to open on a Smith 686 ? is it something I can check out or is there a problem with these revolvers that needs gunsmith attention ?
It opens , but it's a lot harder than it should be to unlatch and rotate the cylinder out for loading and unloading .

375H&H

Went out shooting with the wife today and after shooting some factory Remington 124grain 357's in my 686 I can't open the cylinder. The cylinder release will travel forward but something is not allowing it to open all the way. When the cylinder release is moved forward there is a slight amount of movement as compared to no movement on the cylinder when it is just grabbed and moved. I can cock the hammer and rotate the cylinder around completely so I don't think that is the problem.Thanks for any input.

Todd

Laredo Lefty

The extractor rod may have backed out a bit, check it for tightness. Loose ones can cause hard cylinder opening. These are usually reverse threaded. If you can turn it with your fingers it's probably loose.

If your having this problem with the gun loaded, it could be high primers rubbing against the recoil plate.

375H&H

I checked the extractor rod , not the problem . it's hard to open loaded or unloaded . Also it seems to close harder than it should . It just doesn't have that nice smooth action like it did . Something feels like its slightly binding up when you open or close it .

Laredo Lefty

Check under the extractor star for debris like unburned powder or metal shavings. If the star is not flush shut it can cause binding.

CapnMidnight

Just a guess, maybe a bent crane.
Take is to a good gunsmith, he will be able to tell you in short order.
I've got a neighbor that is one of the very best Smith revolver mechanics I have ever been around. He'd pour you a cup of coffee, light a Camel, and tell what the problem was in about 5 minutes.
W.D.

375H&H

It seems like when you go to close it , just before it should lock up , it starts to get tight , and sorta snaps shut instead of closing nice and smooth . This is with an empty cylinder.

footlong

Bent cranes can be caused by flipping the cylinder open like they sometimes do in the movies..Esp if its loaded

nmyers

Before you give up & seek professional help, try removing the entire cylinder assembly (front screw on right side of frame). You can't completely clean/lube/diagnose this type problem otherwise.

Neal

Mark G

quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
Check under the extractor star for debris like unburned powder or metal shavings. If the star is not flush shut it can cause binding.


+1.
Many years ago I purchased a used 681. It was OK for about 10 rounds but then it got very tight. It required a very thorough cleaning under the extractor star. After that, it worked great for years.

fideau

Look at the locking plunger under the barrel that contacts the front of the cylinder rod. It should be angled to allow the rod to slip by and complete the lock up. Is it scratched, scarred or have a burr? If the rod had begun to back out and someone closed the cylinder it could have been marred or distorted. If so, take it out and smooth it up so the rod can slide easily and it slips into the rod easily.

One more thing, once you make sure the rod is tight, push the thumb release, look at the end of the rod and make sure the locking bolt is pushed clear of the rod. It has to be pushed just past the rod to clear. If it doesn't you could have some gunk in the frame that doe not allow the thumb release to bottom out. Again, clean thoroughly inside the frame and cylinder.
I did have to lightly stone the end of the bolt once on a 66 that was binding on the end.

beantownshootah

quote:What would make the cylinder bind/hard to open on a Smith 686 ? is it something I can check out or is there a problem with these revolvers that needs gunsmith attention ?

It opens , but it's a lot harder than it should be to unlatch and rotate the cylinder out for loading and unloading .
I think this has already been answered, but to reanswer:

This could be something you can fix easily, OR it could be a serious problem requiring the gun go back the factory.

Does this issue happen with the gun UNLOADED? If it only happens with a loaded gun, the issue could be high primers with the ammunition you have, or (probably more likely) dirt on the rear blast shield. Also if the cylinders are dirty the cartridges may not seat completely and you can get this exact issue. EG, from shooting a bunch of 38s then switching to 357s. OK, you said this happens unloaded. . .you can disregard this bit.

Assuming you have the same issue with the gun UNLOADED, built up fouling/carbon on the forcing cone can cause the exact issue you describe (cylinder doesn't turn freely, hard to open and close). So can dirt under the extractor star.

I've seen this exact problem caused by the ejector rod unscrewing a bit, BUT that typically happens only with older revolvers with the reverse-threaded rods. Wouldn't expect this on a 686. Just open the cylinder and see if the ejector rod is partly unscrewed.

Assuming this is not the rod unscrewed, your next step is to get the cylinder off, and clean it, the forcing, cone, and ejector rod/system thoroughly. Use a brush and solvent on any caked on dirt, and make sure you clean under the ejector star.

If a total breakdown and cleaning doesn't help, then you can get into issues like bent crane, damaged ejector rod, etc. Those are probably things a "real" gunsmith should address.