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Steyr GB Disassembly

dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,148 ✭✭✭
edited March 2019 in Ask the Experts
Has anyone disassembled one to the point of removing the trigger and DA drawbar assembly? I have a DA problem and the only way I'm certain of correcting is by doing a little work on the drawbar - here's the problem.

Pulling the trigger in DA mode doesn't always drop the hammer. The back end of the drawbar, which is supposed to slip off its engagement point of the hammer at nearly full cock, doesn't always. The engagement is a bit too "proud" so to speak.

The drawbar is supposed to cam down and out of engagement as the hammer hits fully cocked. That's controlled by the top point of the drawbar interacting with a cut on the slide's right side, bottom edge. I don't want to fiddle with that and since the issue is one of the drawbar not moving down sufficiently, seems to me "adding metal" would be required. I'm not comfortable changing the angle of that part of the drawbar - if I screw it up the situation gets worse and parts for this are hard as heck to find.

Any help on disassembly or other way to correct is appreciated.

BTW, DA will function with a very strong, quick pull. And SA is unaffected. But I like to be slow and deliberate and that's when the problem pops up.


  • navc130navc130 Member Posts: 970 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am not familiar with the Steyr GB. However, You may need to adjust / change the spring pressure on the drawbar to accommodate the slow trigger pull (assuming it uses a spring).
  • rufesnowrufesnow Member Posts: 250 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Might try a very small portion of JB Weld, on the top of the drawbar that contacts the slide. The secret of using JB Weld. Is to let it sit at least 2 hours, after mixing the 2 components together. It's to runny other wise, and it will make a mess.

    Mask off every thing, except the top of the drawbar with painters tape. Clean the top of the drawbar with alcohol. Wait till the JB weld has hardened, so it won't be runny. Use toothpicks to put a small dab of JB Weld on the drawbar. Let it set up for a day. Before dressing it down with needle files.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭
    edited March 2019
    I think glue is a wonderful way to test the add metal theory. Low temperature silver solder and some real metal would be a more durable fix IMHO.

    added Whatever works. Some designs make you wonder.
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,148 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Well, slight change of plans. By accident, of course ....

    While fiddling with the hammer and sear assembly I heard a slight "ping" and it was one of the legs of the coiled hammer springs popping loose. So, out came the hammer and sear. Which may have been for the better. A little stoning on the "DA sear" provided exactly the relief needed. However returning the springs to their powered position is a chore requiring looping wire over them and pulling them taught, anchoring them and then re-seating the sear. Easy to follow, but from what I can see a PITA to execute.


    In case anyone else needs the help and figuring GB would show up on a search before the Steyr Club I've attached a link. It was actually pretty easy to do. Took about 5 minutes.

    They also show a different method with no tools, but it risked launching a spring so I didn't want to try it
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