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9mm AR-pistol or 9mm AR-PCC?
7.62x39Lover
Member Posts: 3,939 ✭✭✭
Hi Guys!
For a 9mm pistol cartridge, what length barrel is perfect in terms of taking advantage of all the powder? Is a 16 inch barrel on a PCC actually too long for a 9mm cartridge? What barrel length is optimal to get all of the power / velocity out of a 9mm pistol cartridge?
For a 9mm pistol cartridge, what length barrel is perfect in terms of taking advantage of all the powder? Is a 16 inch barrel on a PCC actually too long for a 9mm cartridge? What barrel length is optimal to get all of the power / velocity out of a 9mm pistol cartridge?
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Comments
http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/9luger.html
Looks like a 17" barrel is going to get you the best velocity with most of the loads listed.
The reason for all the fiddling: I wanted to see if/how it was going to feel and fit my specific criteria for use using mostly parts on hand before spending the additional $$. My intent is to build a SD firearm for my work vehicle that has more range than a CCW handgun, is easily suppressed with a more compact suppressor vs 5.56, and is shorter OAL w/suppressor than a typical 16" barrel carbine is w/o.
Now, to the question of barrel length. I have both a Ruger PC9 and Marlin Camp 9 with 16" barrels and have shot both out to 100 yards. What I found with those is that the longer barrel extracts all the available power from 147 grain ammo. Based on my casual research on the diff between 16" and 10.5"(my choice for pistol barrel length), very little velocity is lost/gained between the two lengths when using 147 grain factory ammo.
The reason I'm only looking at 147 grain ammo---only a handful of factory ammo choices will stay sub-sonic from the 10.5" barrel and the 147 carries it's velocity better at longer ranges. A 147 from a 10.5" barrel will have almost as much velocity @ 100 yards as the same from a 3.5" has @ 10 yards.
9mm carbines are easily suppressed and are generally subsonic with the 147gr bullets. I know that a suppressor is on your wish list, so keep in mind that once you screw on the "can", the OAL of an 8" barrel carbine is now more or less identical to what it would be with a 16" barrel.
I apologize for the poor quality photos which I took with my phone.
QUESTION! Saw a guy selling something similar, to your "MICRO-RONI"at a gun show. I told him it was Verboten, and the feds were going to haul him off to he gray bar hotel. If they caught him selling it to everybody, who wanted to turn their G 17 into a PDW. He told me that it was legal and I was full of beans. (Only beans wasn't the word, he actually used). Whats the straight skinny on these type of accessories. That convert G 17's into PDW?
The fine threads on the muzzle are surprisingly strong so it would require a barrel bending force to strip those threads. It might be possible to damage the threading of an a softer metal such as aluminum.
After doing some early/late shooting while hunting, I haven't noticed ANY muzzle flash from our suppressed rifles.
While generally repeatable in mounting, the connection between suppressor and host is not consistent enough to allow mounting a front sight on the can body.
While it may be acceptable to use something like wire pulling lube inside a can to increase the effectiveness under specific circumstances, it's much too messy and creates cleaning issues that would make it unacceptable for general use. I tried the "wet can" method ONCE and said "Never again" long before I got all the mess cleaned up.
As Mark said, you'll likely only grab the hot can once and learn from the initial experience. We seldom shoot more than 4-5 times while hunting so heat isn't an issue but we usually wrap stretch camo tape on the can anyway.
Another tidbit that wasn't mentioned: Suppressing the muzzle blast doesn't change the sound of super sonic bullet crack.
I have an engineering background and have designed my own "Form 1" suppressors. I can honestly say that it takes a lot of baffle wizardry to overcome internal volume in suppressor design. A big, cheap, simple can is often as effective as an exotic, expensive design with a smaller size. The problem is that big cans don't handle well, are often heavy, can change POI significantly and "cheap" materials don't stand up to the heat/stress inside a can as well as inconel, titanium, stellite, and such.
The successful suppressor manufacturers spend a lot of time and money looking for the magical design that does a great job while being as light/small as possible. I don't begrudge them the prices they ask(well, most of the time anyway).
PS
My statement above is part of the impetus for my 9mm AR pistol build. I can Form 1 ($200 stamp fee plus a few $$ in parts)an adequate suppressor capable of handling a 10.5" 9mm but a can capable of handling a 10.5" .223 and doing a decent job of suppressing it costs $400-700 plus $200.