A reloading question: has anyone ever...

Warbirds

I hope we are at a peak of reloading insanity but I doubt it.

I was “on my way” to USPSA nationals this year and COVID19 simply through a wrench into that. I would like to try again next year.

I have a good amount of reloading supplies on hand and ready to go- but not enough for a full season of 20,000 rounds or so in a year.

Small pistol Primers are the constraint.

I have seen this cycle several times and it could be a long while before I can just hop on Brownells and order another 5,000 box of small pistol primers.

I am thinking as an alternative to building a racegun that runs on large pistol primers, and duplicate my current gun as close as possible.

This would be a 10mm, specifically A Gen4 Glock 40 MOS.

All that backstory, now here is my actual question:

A) Is there very light load data for 10mm? (sort of defeats the intended purpose of the cartridge).

B) Could I skip the 10mm and do this with a 40 platform (Glock35) and instead trim 10mm brass to 40 specs and essentially run large primers in a 40S&W?

C) just use the $$ that would be spent on building a whole new gun and pay a premium for supplies even at 10-12 cents a piece you get lots of primers for $2,000 perhaps that is the most logical answer but a tough pill to swallow.

Ricci.Wright

I gave away 5000 Win. small pistol primers a month ago. Still have a few pounds of power here but I will not ship powder.

jimdeere

Some good info here:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/10mm-spp-cut-down-to-load-40-s-w.872977/#post-11597372

NeoBlackdog

I think you'd be better off just to bite the bullet and order primers.   There's a bunch on the auction side but they've definitely gotten expensive!  https://www.gunbroker.com/item/877048005  12.44 cents/primer...   Ouch!
Aren't many of the larger matches 'lost brass' matches?  If so then it seems you'd put a ton of effort into cutting down 10's to make large primer 40's just to leave 'em lay in the dirt.   

Sam06

That sounds like too much trouble for a volume shooter.  I would get together with some guys in your shooting club that reload and order a large lot of primers.  You may even get a good deal from some local guy on a large lot.

When I was shooting like that I went in with 2 other guys and we ordered 200k primers from a local guy who sells reloading stuff.  We also ordered a large quantity of powder.  He gave us a good deal(cost plus 5%).  I think he got free shipping because it was a big order.

chiefr

The problem with going light on 10mm is relative to the amount of pressure needed to cycle the slide.
You can say the same with any auto.
Of course you can go with a lighter spring, but the 10mm was intended for max power in an auto.

I managed to create a lighter load using Unique and cast bullets. Had to work up incrementally to ensure function. Load was super accurate, but not up to the full potential of the 10mm.

nononsense

Here are the SAAMI dimension drawing for both cartridges to use in comparison:

A) Is there very light load data for 10mm? (sort of defeats the intended purpose of the cartridge).

There are quite a few so called 'light loads' for the 10mm Auto cartridge since so many folks think the original loads are too much for them to handle.

I don't see a problem with developing a light load when you then have the opportunity to use both not just one, greater flexibility.

B) Could I skip the 10mm and do this with a 40 platform (Glock35) and instead trim 10mm brass to 40 specs and essentially run large primers in a 40S&W?

I did a cursory check of the outside dimensions which yields a positive outcome for this modification. HOWEVER this does NOT take into account the interior dimensions which could sink the whole idea. These dimensions, which need to come from both drawings and actual cases to confirm them, will determine what actually will work. Understand that the taper on the inside of the case is important as is the actual volume of that modified case.

C) just use the $$ that would be spent on building a whole new gun and pay a premium for supplies even at 10-12 cents a piece you get lots of primers for $2,000 perhaps that is the most logical answer but a tough pill to swallow.

That's what sticks in my craw also. These current prices are simply the extreme greed of people who look to extort profits. So I would would much prefer converting brass to better usefulness as opposed to paying these folks their ransom. Screw 'em! Only you can decide if the differential is worth the investment.

Best.

bpost

Powder Valley Inc .Com.

Butchdog2

Bought from them in the past, excellent bunch.

nononsense

bpost said:

Powder Valley Inc .Com.

Powder Valley is out of all small pistol primers.

Best.

Wulfmann

I have used SP and SR back and forth with no difference
SP in AR15s
SR in a variety of pistols
Of course SR are not in good supply either but SP is by far the hardest to find

Warbirds

Good advice ya’ll.

I will keep you posted.

rufe-snow

When I first got my G 20 back in the 90's. I put together all kinds, of barn burner loads. Case full of AA 9, under a 135 grain  Nosler JHP. Was my standard. This got old quick, as the brass was not reloadable. That the original Glock 10 MM barrel, had a over sized chamber was the main reason.

I wised up and quick, and started shooting only light handloads. 3 1/2 grains, of AA 2 powder. Under a 200 grain, lead semi wadcutter, turned into my favorite. You might consider this load.

As far as converting 10 mm brass into 40 S & W. I have done this in the past. It was kind of a pain in the butt, frankly. Had to be done in two separate operations. First rough cutting the brass. Than finishing to precise length, using case trimmer. Trying to use the case trimmer on 10 mm brass. With out rough cutting. Required a electric drill, to be attached to the case trimmer. 

gjshaw

If you run out come see me. I’m just a little north of you and the last time primers were in short supply I loaned a few dealers some of mine to get thru the bad times.

nononsense

As far as converting 10 mm brass into 40 S & W. I have done this in the past. It was kind of a pain in the butt, frankly. Had to be done in two separate operations. First rough cutting the brass. Than finishing to precise length, using case trimmer. Trying to use the case trimmer on 10 mm brass. With out rough cutting. Required a electric drill, to be attached to the case trimmer.

Because I convert so much brass on occasion, I have a precision case trimmer. One step process for exact length and finish edge.  Twist lock case holder held in collet.

Best.

toad67

nononsense said:

As far as converting 10 mm brass into 40 S & W. I have done this in the past. It was kind of a pain in the butt, frankly. Had to be done in two separate operations. First rough cutting the brass. Than finishing to precise length, using case trimmer. Trying to use the case trimmer on 10 mm brass. With out rough cutting. Required a electric drill, to be attached to the case trimmer.

Because I convert so much brass on occasion, I have a precision case trimmer. One step process for exact length and finish edge.  Twist lock case holder held in collet.

Best.

That's cheating.....

NeoBlackdog

toad67 said:

nononsense said:

As far as converting 10 mm brass into 40 S & W. I have done this in the past. It was kind of a pain in the butt, frankly. Had to be done in two separate operations. First rough cutting the brass. Than finishing to precise length, using case trimmer. Trying to use the case trimmer on 10 mm brass. With out rough cutting. Required a electric drill, to be attached to the case trimmer.

Because I convert so much brass on occasion, I have a precision case trimmer. One step process for exact length and finish edge.  Twist lock case holder held in collet.

Best.

That's cheating.....

Only if you don't have one!!!

nononsense

If you think that's cheating, check this one out:

https://fclassproducts.com/the-idod-case-turner

Grunt2

As far as converting 10 mm brass into 40 S & W. I have done this in the past. It was kind of a pain in the butt, frankly. Had to be done in two separate operations. First rough cutting the brass. Than finishing to precise length, using case trimmer. Trying to use the case trimmer on 10 mm brass. With out rough cutting. Required a electric drill, to be attached to the case trimmer. 

How about a Tri-Way trimmer? I love'em!!!