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1894 winchester stock treatment

chicoppeechicoppee Member Posts: 312 ✭✭
in Ask the Experts

I just picked up a decent 1894 Winchester 30WCF carbine with a very dry buttstock.

Looks like it originally had varnish but its almost completely gone and the remainder is flakeing off.

I would like to treat it with some type of oil or finish but I don't want to hurt the value.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

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    toad67toad67 Member Posts: 13,019 ✭✭✭✭

    Doing anything will change the originality of the gun, and possibly the value of it, depending on what you do. What are you wanting for the end result, just a little reconditioning, or something more?

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    chicoppeechicoppee Member Posts: 312 ✭✭

    I did not want to re finish the stock just wanted to stabilize it and hopefully make it look better.

    Metal is around 85% so a little effort on my parts seems worth it!

    Thanks

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    dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭

    I don't know if it can still be found, but Fairtrimmers XO will rub in, provide a little color and reconditioning without stripping, laying over the original finish. Blends in very well. I've used in on Winchester 88 and 100 stocks that had a touch of flaking and it does very, very well. It won't blow through whatever sealing finish is still present, only the exposed wood.

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    chicoppeechicoppee Member Posts: 312 ✭✭

    Thanks ill try to find some !

    Pete

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    navc130navc130 Member Posts: 1,205 ✭✭✭

    Anything you do will show up as non-original finish and diminish the purest collector value. If you use it replace it with a used stock. You could try and rub in thinned Spar Varnish. Try a small area first. rub it in until your palm is warm. Other solutions, as mentioned, may work as well or better. Again, in my experience, anything you do to the stock will show up as non-original. Your choice. Good luck.

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    truthfultruthful Member Posts: 1,989 ✭✭✭✭

    You said it is "decent" so sounds like it isn't in high-end collector condition. You won't hurt the value one bit by feeding the dried out, starved wood with a good oil. DO NOT use varnish or anything else that is going to sit on top of the wood or on the parts of remaining original finish. Don't use anything that will add color. And don't remove the wood from the gun unless absolutely necessary. Removing the wood and replacing it almost always destroys the wood to metal factory fit and will be obvious. Use only boiled linseed diluted with a bit of turpentine. The idea is to get the oil to penetrate into the wood. Wipe it on with just the skin of your hand and let it sit for an hour or so. Wipe off the excess, then wet your hand a bit with just a little oil and rub the wood fast and hard. You need to rub hard enough to feel the heat buildup. Then let it sit for a few days and repeat the process. It might take several repeats to get a uniform looking result. Whatever you do to the stock, be sure to do the same to the forend so that they match.

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    nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,880 ✭✭✭✭

    Aliphatic solvents are mutagenic, carcinogenic, & toxic. They are readily inhaled & absorbed through the skin. Use them in a well ventilated area & wear your PPE (personal protective equipment).

    Neal

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