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suppressor sugestions
CaneyRiverDog
Member Posts: 147 ✭✭
I've been spending the icy evening looking at threaded barrel firearms on the auction side. If you were to buy multiple firearms with different threads say 1/2x28 and 13x1LH is there a suppressor that would have different tailcaps? What if one is a pistol and one is a carbine like a 9mm AR and a pistol?
Any suggestions on a maker that would cover all bases? Don't have the money to do several tax stamps so a 9mm suppressor that would work on pistols, carbines, and like a trilug would be ideal.
Comments
Most 9mm pistols use 1/2X28, but some European pistols (such as thre SIG P320) use 13mm LH threads. Most 9mm carbines us 1/2X36, which is a fine thread. Swapping pistons is the solution.
My choice was the AAC TiRant 9mm can, which could support al three (and others):
P320 (13mm LH):
Beretta APX and Walther PPQ (1/2X28):
9mm carbine (1/2X36):
Due to Remington's bankruptcy, AAC is more or less done for, but there are other cans out there with the same features.
Show off.....😉 Most of the stuff you have isn't my "cup-o-tea" Mark, but I do like looking at what you post....
Another option is thread adapters
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Kaw-Valley-Precision-Thread-Adapter-p/kvp-adpt.htm#:~:text=For%20example%2C%201%2F2x28%20(,larger%20than%209mm%20diameter%20projectiles.
Several suppressor makers are using a replaceable tailpiece with a somewhat standardized 1 3/8x24 thread pattern . I have a couple of these "multi-fit" tail pieces that allow using different brands to be mounted on semi-permanent affixed muzzle mounts. YHM markets a "kit" that adapts another brand suppressor(with the 1 3/8x24 pattern) to attach to any compatible YHM muzzle mount.
For instance: a 9mm suppressor may have a solid direct thread tailpiece for use on an AR carbine or pistol plus a piston for use on a tilt barrel handgun plus a QA for use with a muzzle mount.
Be VERY careful of those thread on adaptor thingies due to the possibility of mis-alignment. Doesn't take much to result in a destructive baffle strike.
With the current cost of ammo, my guns have been silent for a while.
I'm not a fan of thread adaptors and for the reason stated by Mobuck. Another typical use of an adaptor is to go from the 13.5 LH threads on a SIG-Sauer to the 1/2X28 RH threads on a common US made suppressor. The problem here is that once you've screwed the LH adaptor onto the barrel, as soon as you begin tightening the RH suppresser you start loosening the LH adaptor. Even if you screw everything solid with a wrench, just firing the pistol will begin loosening both the adaptor from the barrel and the suppressor from the adaptor. Buy the correct piston and save the hassles.
Below is my AAC 9mm TiRant which is partially disassembled to show piston installation/removal:
A) The suppressor body (the baffles are inside the tube) showing the hub which secures the pistons inside the can.
B) 1/2X28 RH piston with the spring for tilt-barrel pistols (which is most of them).
C) M13.5X1 LH piston, most commonly used with SIG-Sauer 9mm pistols.
D) 1/2X36 RH thread which is common on 9mm carbines.
Notice the black sleeve below the 1/3X36 piston. Since 9mm carbines have fixed barrels, this sleeve replaces the spring used on tilt-barrel pistols serves as a spacer for the absent spring. Firing a fixed barrel firearm with the spring installed will eventually damage the suppressor.
This is a general overview of an extremely complex subject.
Only a couple of months ago, there was an article in Guns & Ammo about a new suppressor system with a 2 piece tube, & tungsten baffles that drop out & can easily be cleaned. Wish I'd kept that issue. Anyone remember seeing that?
Neal
Lots of good info on this thread from Mark. I will just add to it that if you want even more versatility you can get a pistol silencer made for a 45auto and then you can use it on almost all of your pistol caliber firearms. The difference of a 9mm shot through a 9mm or a 45 silencer is almost indistinguishable.
Our top selling pistol silencer is the Silencerco Osprey in 45. We also sell quite a few of the Osprey 45k, same thing just a little shorter.
Lets take a look at a .45 caliber can:
On the left is a .45 caliber GEMTECH, and on the right is the same 9mm TiRant from previous photos- hey, it's my favorite! Besides the proprietary parts like pistons, notice the difference in the size of the spring needed to manage the recoil of .45acp vs 9mm.
Something which I forgot to mention in the 9mm post is the ACC TiRant is a modular suppressor. You can vary the length of the tube by unscrewing the forward section: Using a Beretta APX as a host, first up is the full length tube:
Then the shortened tube we saw in the previous photos:
I normally use the shorter tube, but the extension adds four additional baffles resulting in a noticeable reduction in sound. On a fairly short pistol like the APX, the full length can actually balances surprisingly well. On the other hand, using the full length tube with a full size pistol like the CZ P10C makes a rather awkward combination (it's BIG):
As always, these are my own photos and everything shown in those photos is mine. In addition, all opinions voiced are also my own.
while looking for the suppressor that Mark mentioned I found this. What's your opinions on this? I was told if I was to buy any class 3 items to do a trust.
I am a Class 3 Dealer so to me a trust is a non sensical exercise. I suppose if you actually need a trust it is useful. Otherwise it seems pointless.
What happens to your Class III stuff when you pass on without a trust? Doesn't a trust allow them to pass to next of kin if listed on the trust otherwise they have to go away?
What a great give away to leave them to a lucky member here LOL!
I was always told to put all class 3 items in a trust. When you pass away they are, "destroyed"! A trust also allows those on the trust to use the class 3 items. If not they're supposed to always be in your possession.
Do a search on Trusts and you'll find hundreds of posts on the subject.
Had I have known that a thread on suppressor advice would have ultimately lead to a discussion on trusts, I would have never gotten involved. That was my mistake, but it won't happen again.
Before the NFA laws changed a year and a half ago trusts were probably better.
Now, the long and short of it is basically "Do you want to share your NFA items with other people?"
If the answer is yes, then do a trust.
If the answer is no, then do it as an individual.
I fill out form 4s almost everyday, I dislike trusts as they overcomplicate the fairly easy process.
Savage is right on. Allows you to use just about any "attachment".
My stamps finally came in! Picking up my 2 cans on Tuesday.
8 months 10 days for approval (255 days).
main reason why I never considered getting one. 8 months is a ridiculous wait for something I already paid for
Ha! I'm impressed that drobs got his stamps in 8 months. If 8 months is too long, I'm surprised you're interested in trusts? Add 4 months to the time frame with a trust.
If you're in a hurry, become a Class 3 dealer. I can get approvals in 3 days.
I concur - especially with instant background checks. There's no reason for them to take so long.
Mid way through my wait, I read Form 1 (home built) suppressors were taking significantly less time.
I'm just not that familiar with all that is involved in that process.
Kind of difficult to run background checks when most of the ATF work force is working from home. And, they know that, for the 4th year in a row, the President tried to freeze their COLA's, so they may need an attitude adjustment.
Neal
We have been getting form 4s back in around 4-5 months lately which is pretty quick.
I'll tell you guys like I tell my customers when they tell me they don't want to wait 4 months, 8 months, 13 months, whatever the current time-frame is.
"The time is going to pass anyway, if you don't do it, 8 months from now you won't be any closer to owning a silencer."
So, in other words, just do it, you'll thank me in 5 months when you are shooting your guns suppressed.
You only live once - might as well enjoy it.
Do suppresses effect the action? Heard because of the pressure differential, it effects the operation of autos?
That is what the springs, which I mentioned (or so I had thought) compensate for.
"Do suppresses effect the action? Heard because of the pressure differential, it effects the operation of autos?"
What type of auto?
Mark / others that own suppressors,
4 questions.
Question #1 - How does one "wet" a suppressor?
I read through my Gemtech (now S&W) Lunar9 manual last night and it mentions my suppressor can be shot "wet" with 9mm only. 300blk must be dry and only subsonic ammo is approved. There is no mention in the manual on how one should "wet" the suppressor. Would you mind explaining that to me?
Question #2 - What grease to use for the suppressor spring?
Question #3 - Accessories - What heat resistant gloves do you use? Do you use a heat resistant pouch or cover? How about holster for carrying a suppressed Pistol?
Question #4 - Hearing protection? The manual says it's required. Would you mind discussing this?
I being dumb will try it at least one shot without hearing protection - to see how loud it is. My ears already ring.
Thanks all.
1) If you pour a small amount of (lets say) water- about a cap-full from a bottle of water- into the suppressor, when you fire a round the hot gasses will cause the water to instantly expand to steam and absorb some of the heat of the gases. Cooler is slower and therefore quieter. Firing wet won't result in a magical reduction in sound, but it is noticeable. Of course the water evaporates quickly and you'll need to add more. There are many substances you can use inside the silencer; different gels or greases, but water is free and leaves no residue. On the other hand you can expect a blast of steam out of the front of the silencer.
2) A good quality gun grease will work to lube the springs, but I use Lucas high temperature grease, which also contains an anti seize. Speaking of anti seize, to ensure easy disassembly, be sure to put a small amount of anti seize on all of the threaded component parts of your suppressor.
3) One of the things that Hollywood never shows is just so hot a suppressor will get, particularly a rifle caliber can. You can receive a serious burn touching a hot can with bare hands, and ordinary work gloves will burn up very quickly. Although there are "specialty" gloves made and sold for suppressors, I use a silicone barbeque glove I purchased at Target. Although the glove is bulky, it works great and only cost $10!
I don't use suppressor covers, but I do keep them in heat resistant pouches. I've had good luck with this company:
High Quality Suppressor Pouch (bushidotactical.com) Note that heat resistant means just that: I you put s super-hot can directly into one of those pouches it will burn up- or melt, which would be a mess.
I can't even begin to tackle the holster issue. I don't carry a suppressed pistol in the field.
4) You'll hear the term "hearing safe" tossed around. There are medical limits to just how much noise you can be exposed to on a daily, or even an hourly basis. Handguns and .22 rimfire are normally safe to shoot without hearing protection, but I still wear ear plugs when I shoot suppressed rifles, except for 300 Blackout, which is scary quiet.
Thanks Mark!
I guess there are lots of ways to "use a suppressor". Mine are mostly used for hunting and therefore don't get really hot(maybe a bit warm if the yoties are coming in hard and fast). Most of my centerfire cans are wrapped with camo tape which confirms this comment. Unless sub-sonic ammo is used, shooting centerfire means you have to accept the sonic signature of the high velocity bullet which is most of what the shooter hears. The 300AAC with sub-sonics is VERY quiet plus, with the right ammo, it can be suitable for hunting within it's range restrictions.
The rimfire cans can get warm but not really hot. They get shot fairly fast often. As far as "hearing safe", the 22's using sub-sonic ammo really are "movie quiet". I mean a bolt action 22 rifle that the sound of the striker hitting the primer is louder than the muzzle report.
What exactly is the need for a heat resistant glove?
I do have a custom made holster for a Ruger 22 pistol with a mounted suppressor and have carried it a couple of times on the trapline--unhandy is an understatement.
"Hearing safe" can mean the muzzle signature is below the accepted level that can cause hearing loss. For me the value is in shooting in a hunting scenario w/o causing ringing ears later.
After chatting with Mark on the phone yesterday, I put 100rds through my Gemtech Lunar 9. Sounds like a nail gun going off in the distance. Not Hollywood quiet but I'd say maybe quieter than a 22 pistol.
I still need to swap flash hiders on 4 rifles so no pics of my DeadAir Nomad-L. Looking forward to hunting with the suppressor.
Gemtech mentions that nomax gloves are recommended as the suppressor can reach temps of >900F after rapid fire / full auto fire. I shot slow yesterday and didn't have any issues with heat. I believe it's recommended to frequently check the suppressor for tightness to the barrel and having heat resistant gloves would be good to have.