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Winchester 94 soldered front sight
Skeedaddy
Member Posts: 95 ✭✭
My '57 Winchester mod. 94 has a front (hooded ramp) sight that had come off. Is silver solder still the best to use to re-attach the sight? I'm having a difficult time finding someone who can do this (professionally), and I really don't want to use super glue. Thanks in advance!
Comments
Silver solder will work just fine.
If you don't have any on hand and need to order I would use Brownells High Force 44. Excellent solder with ample strength and lower flow temp.
Thanks Asphalt Cowboy- still use lots of regular flux?
Yep, I use Oatey brand from the hardware store. Just don't go overboard with it, too much can affect bluing. Dab some on with a Q-tip, heat with the torch and wipe off with a clean paper towel. Then apply just enough flux to make the surface look greasy and then tin with just enough heat to make the solder flow. You need to tin the ramp and ramp area of the barrel. If the solder looks frosted you don't have enough heat. You want it to shine like a new dime, but not so hot the solder puddles up and rolls off.
If you've got a drill press with vice it will make this much easier and a lot more accurate. Level your barrel in the padded vise and use a short length of steel rod to press the ramp in place and hang a weight (or use a screen door spring) on the quill lever to hold it down so you have both hands free to work the torch and solder with. This will also keep everything in place as the steel and solder cool.
Something else that helps is a welders soap stone. Hold the sight ramp firmly in place and coat the surrounding area around it with soapstone. This helps keep solder from sticking to areas outside your intended solder joint. 0000 steel wool can be used to clean up excess solder around the ramp before it cools.
Silver solder is exactly what Winchester used to attache the front sight bases. I rather surprised that the sight ramp on your Model 94 got knocked off.
Bert H.
Thanks again asphalt cowboy, you answered all my questions; I spoke with a couple of gunsmiths, and they agreed that it may need reblueing afterwards - which I want to avoid. You are right , Bert, I'm surprised too! I wonder if there is a better way....
That's interesting ,what year did they change to this? I have 37 barrel ,36 carbine,and a 48 carbine .The ramps are forged integral to the barrel on these. I've looked them over with loop ,they all have parallel contour polish marks along the sides with NO seam .
I've done a bit of sweating and you always have a silver seam .The older saddlering carbine post type barrels were silver soldered on early then changed to forged integral.
They must have changed to this late 50's maybe. Can you post any pictures?
As far as protecting bluing Brownells heat stop paste will help pretty well .
Place on surrounding bluing and in bore. Unless it was a pristine finish specimen I don't think it will be a big deal .