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Bullet puller
Pcroft
Member Posts: 51 ✭
Also cross posted in CMP reloading, here goes:
Anyone have thoughts or have tried the GRIP-N-PULL? Looking to pull some 308, 224 and 9mm. Trying to make a choice on a tool. Any input would be welcome, I have never considered it before now due to the current shortages. I have looked at other threads concerning pulling tools,but have not seen this one addressed. Thank you in advance!!
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Comments
I have bullet pullers. RCBS that takes different spuds for different calibers.
All of the GRIP type pullers that I have used will distort the bullets.
When I want to re-use the bullets pulled I use a RCBS or Hornady kinetic puller.
I stick with these two brands because I have used their lifetime warranty few times due to broken parts and I can request spare replacement parts.
I insert a sponge type ear plug into the puller and this keeps from bending or distorting the point on some bullets.
On some hulls that are very hard to pull the bullet I place the shell in my press and use a bullet seater and press the bullet little deeper to break the tightness.
Some factory shells are the harder ones to pull.
I agree. I have never found a satisfactory bullet puller that did not damage the bullet. If you want to reuse the bullets, either use a kinetic puller or relegate the loads you make with them to casual practice.
I agree, and as I recall, one size fits all ?
Thank you for the input. These are 168 grain .308 matchking handloads and M2 ball that I am trying to pull and reuse for range practice.
If the "M2 ball" is actual military issue then good luck with using a whacketta whack puller. I use one of those for 9mm oops loads but not very efficient for sealed in place rifle bullets.
With several hundred dented case 5.56 loads requiring pulling, I couldn't find my old puller so bought a new Hornady. WOW, it works well and is adjustable to prevent significant bullet damage.
If you use a kinetic puller, make sure you hit it on concrete or metal, you will ruin a piece of wood....
Please elaborate Toad....
To clarify, I am looking to find a way to extract 168 sierra out of 30-06 cases. They are loose for the most part and never crimped. For those interested, the 30-06 brass was polished, headstamps LC68, LC69, and LC72 no idea on the powder. I have several hundred rounds like that I found at an estate sale, like whoever was making it stopped. I pulled one with hemos and a vise and it is 168. The M2 was from the same place; much of it was corroded but it was tumbled and I have cleaned most of it up now. So focus is not mil spec, more like soft touch. Thank you for the info...guess I need to look at some RCBS kinetics maybe?
"If you use a kinetic puller, make sure you hit it on concrete or metal, you will ruin a piece of wood...."
I disagree. I've used a block of oak for years and it is fine. You need a large block and hit the end grain, not a piece of board. Hitting concrete/metal with the plastic hammer pullers is more likely to shatter them.
"The M2 was from the same place; much of it was corroded but it was tumbled and I have cleaned most of it up now. "
Just my advice, loaded ammo should not be "tumbled" for more than a few minutes. Tumbling long enough to clean "corroded" cartridges is not recommended. In this case, you're intending to pull the bullets anyway so no real harm.
Thank you for the input Mobuck!! Most of the M2 is going to the puller if I can find one...no one gives a straight answer it seems. The box of M1 clips was the jewel for me on that one, but I was able to load up 5 bandoliers of clips of nice looking M2...need to pull about 1000+ individual rounds...the rest of the brass is gone but the bullets are perfect😬🤯