Scope rings coming loose
jb4lcm
Member Posts: 119 ✭✭
After re-mounting my warranty-replaced scope I headed out to zero it in. After 6-8 rounds I was happy with the results. I continued experimenting with new rounds. Maybe 40 or so rounds fired.
Today I went back out to make further tests at 300 yards. Before I fired a shot I set my torque screwdriver to 18 in/lb and gave the top screws a snug - no movement at all. Then I set it to 30 in/lb to give the base screws a snug and the rear ring was tight, but the forward ring was backed out nearly 3 turns - finger loose!
After getting the rings back to torque, the zero was way off. Got that back to zero with maybe 6 shots - and looked at the rings again - the forward ring's base screws required nearly a 1/4 turn on both screws to get the driver to pop. Another 6 rounds and it required a similar turn to tighten again.
Vortex scope, Vortex rings, Leupold rail. Maybe time for Leupold rings?
Comments
Blue Loctite is your friend.
Clean screw threads of any oil, and a TINY dab of blue loctite. Or better yet a dab of fingernail polish, that's what I use a lot of times in those situations. Seems to hold well. but still allows removal of the screw if you choose to. Loctite gets over used IMO, and it can be a nightmare to get loctited screws out.
If you want something removable in the long term, I would use a Nordlock washer to secure the fasteners.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
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Some will fall in love with life
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That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Ditch the rings, and get Burris or Leupold
You did not mention what TYPE bases you have, I suspect the Leupold cross slot type also termed Weaver style.
I think maybe you are the guy that was on here awhile back, maybe with a Tikka 308 rifle and found you had a erratic acting FFP Vortex scope that you were going to send back for warranty REPLACEMENT????
It's un-usually for the scope ring screws to come loose even the Weaver cross slot when properly matched to the correct bases. Some are a round peg in a square hole and vice versa. In your description this is not a place to depend on thread lock, it's time for matching components and using Leupold since you already have leupold bases.
At the very least match the rings and bases and I agree if you have Leupold bases go with matching Leupold other stuff.
Some people really bad mouth Weaver stuff but I've not had any issues with the WEAVER brand and keeping things matched.
The main reason has gots lots of bad raps is people think the have Weaver, but the actuALLY have the Weaver STYLE and lots of manu's including CHINA use the term Weaver and it's weaver clone stuff and soft aluminum junk.
I also see lots of instances where people use a Picatinny rail base and then use regular non-picatinny rings. This is not a good thing for guns above 22 caliber. The cross slots are wider when using Picatinny bases.(and the side angles on the Picatinny rails are not same as standard cross slot bases.
Good to see you found scope MOUNTING issues IMMEDIATELY instead of having to think you had another bad scope.
I recall on a previous thread a photo of the Vortex rings with the crossbolt being a blind screw? No way of knowing if it is bottoming or not.
Time for Leupold rings on the Leupold base.
Okie - Yes - same guy. Vortex replaced it - confirmed innerds were busted.
It is a weird situation for sure. yesterday was great results. I went out today to get cold BBL results at 300 yards and couldn't find paper after 1.29 MOA yesterday. It's almost as if gremlins snuk into my garage and messed with the screws.
Vortex is scratching their head as well. But they did say locktite should not be necessary on any rings "if done properly".
I recall someone saying mixing rail and ring manufacturers could cause issues. Which makes sense.
Back to the beginning.... again. Scope off, check rail screws, re-install rings, scope, find paper. phak!!
I know harmonics can loosen anything threaded. I have to twist the extended chokes on my Browning 725 .410 several times during one round of skeet. Just a smidge.
I'd check the torque on your stock bolts.....
chiefr has it right.
I learned the hard way not to cross brands with scope mounts. I wouldn't call it a rule but it's just a really good idea and eliminates suspicion.
I have on occasion crossed Burris/ Leupold what I had in my stock over 30 plus years and never had an issue. That is the only two that worked for me to my satisfaction. Still, forget the other and throw them in the can. Thank me later.
My situation has Leopold bases and Burris rings. Shots were ping pong left and right. Maybe a little up and down but just a little. It wasn't till my son took the scope off that he could feel a very very faint bit of play by twisting the ring. Lesson #2 was realizing it only takes a tiny bit of play to throw the shot 4 inches left or right. The thing was, I checked these bases and rings over and over trying to find something loose.
Man, you sure do have a lot of scope issues! Maybe iron sights are your best bet! 😁.
Kidding of course.Like HPD said, a tiny drop of blue Loctite or fingernail polish should do the trick for ya.
🇺🇲 "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." - Thomas Jefferson 🇺🇲
Chris8x57 - I removed everything today and did an in-depth review. The screws are 3/8" long. The holes are deeper than the screws so there is no issue there.
The bottom of the Vortex ring has a squared off lug that sits in the cross-slot of the rail that is only 1.2mm deep. The Leupold "Backcountry" Cross-slot ring has a lug that is 2.5mm deep which is actually threaded on the end with a 3/8 nut.
I'm gonna switch to the backcountry rings. Beefy, and designed to go with the rail.
I don't consider the depth/height of the cross-lug interface to be a deciding factor in whether the ring is working loose or not. Moreover, I think it is more a case of the clamp rail possibly not actually engaging the rail fully after the crossbolt or screw seats.
There are a lot of manufacturer deviations between Picatinny rail extrusions or machined assemblies, and then you throw in the Weaver, MIL-STD-1913 and the NATO standards as well. That's why (IMO) it is better to stick with like combinations of Leupold/Leupold, or Warner/Warner, etc. , base and ring combinations.
By sticking with one manufacturers combination, you are at least eliminating brand deviations. I think switching to the Leupold ring with the nut is a great idea.
Amen to the above post:
If you have done it, it's not bragging.
I had the Leupold rings for a couple of years sitting in a box because I stripped out one side of the top ring. I thought My bad, oh well. I was going to throw them away but figured I'd hold onto them. Yesterday I realized they, too, have a lifetime warranty so I sent in the request for repair. I was given the green light for return and mailed them off. We shall see if they repair or replace or say too bad.
Years ago, back in my gun counter days, I had a customer with a similar head scratching problem. After a lot of trial and error we finally determined that his bases didn't line up perfectly. The front base was just slightly crooked and the front ring was only clamping tightly with one small corner of the clamp. I suppose recoil was causing the ring to move slightly and removing the tension on the screw allowing it to turn and loosen. We tried several bases with the same result and then sent his rifle back to Savage for repair. If I recall correctly, they replaced the rifle. Best of luck with yours and I hope the Leupolds are the cure. Bob