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Construction question

love2shootlove2shoot Member Posts: 576 ✭✭✭

I have a 10'x16' concrete slab that has settled and cracked. What price range should the job be in? Remove slab (no wire or rebar), form in up, haul in sand, compact, level and replace two yards of concrete with 4000 mix? No special finish on the concrete. The location is easy to get to so they could pour the job right from the truck.

Comments

  • mohawk600mohawk600 Member Posts: 5,529 ✭✭✭✭

    Hopefully the new slab will be reinforced

  • bullshotbullshot Member Posts: 14,706 ✭✭✭✭

    Use steel and wire in the next one or you'll face the same problem next time.

    "Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you"
  • NeoBlackdogNeoBlackdog Member Posts: 17,242 ✭✭✭✭

    You're probably looking at around 1600 to 2000 bucks plus the cost of removal. What is the slab used for? If you park anything on it make sure it's got steel in it. If it was me I'd go the extra inch and pour it 6" rather than 4".

  • notnownotnow Member Posts: 1,856 ✭✭✭

    All the above plus don't pour it level. Give it a slope. Morons that poured our driveway, long before we got this place, poured it level. We live in the land of snow and salt and more salt. You ought to see what that does. There's two long tracks of small craters from the salt popping the concrete. Like it was hit with the round end of a ball peen hammer. And being level, the salt water just lays there until it's pushed away.

  • love2shootlove2shoot Member Posts: 576 ✭✭✭

    The new one will have wire in it. Just a back patio with three plastic lawn chairs and three fat buttts. Called the concrete plant and the 4000 mix will be $600 because of the minimum delivery charge. Six yards to not get the extra charge. I figure two guys could jackhammer it out in three hours. Many moons ago three of us broke out a 24x24 garage floor in five hours. Those moons and friends are history. I figure the job could be done in a day and comeback the next to pull the forms. Back in one of those moons I did lots of this stuff so I have a general idea of time but not present costs.

  • Toolman286Toolman286 Member Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭✭

    Like Neo said. There will probably be an up charge for only 2 yards. Depending what it's for, go bigger.

  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,128 ✭✭✭✭

    Wire or re-bar won't prevent cracking. At best it will 'limit' separation after the cracks.

    I spent over $10K on a concrete floor in my new shop building. I watched the preparation and pouring carefully but Son kept telling me it would crack. HE WAS RIGHT. Even with fill tamping, reinforcement wire, and a good job of pouring/settling the concrete, there are several cracks-some extending full width of the 40' wide floor.

    To say I'm unhappy is a huge understatement. I have ZERO confidence in any concrete slab or wall.

  • dunbarboyzdunbarboyz Member Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭✭

    I would fix the crack and use the old slab. But I am cheap that way.

  • NeoBlackdogNeoBlackdog Member Posts: 17,242 ✭✭✭✭

    You cannot keep concrete from cracking, that's what it does. It turns grey and it cracks. What you can do is to control where it cracks by putting shallow cuts (control joints) in it after it has cured for a couple of days.

  • mmppresmmppres Member Posts: 3,183 ✭✭✭✭

    I was told to make sure the base is well set. Lots of drainage. Then set with good rebar. If slab is to big you need to make it in sections. Put expansion joints init.

  • DEEREHARTDEEREHART Member Posts: 376 ✭✭✭

    Here is what I know about concrete…

    1. It will always get hard
    2. It will always crack
    3. No one will steal it

    😁

  • asopasop Member Posts: 9,006 ✭✭✭✭

    It's all in the base. Using a "fiber mesh" ready mix will help.

  • RadarRadar Member Posts: 2,312 ✭✭✭

    Fiber mesh is great with rebar ! If not a slick finish use the course fiber not the micro.

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