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Which case polishing media
Standing Elk
Member Posts: 8 ✭
I am going to replace the media in my case vibrator. I see a choice between corn cob and walnut. Is one better than the other?? Thanks
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Comments
In my reloading days, I used to use ground walnut shells. I found the corn cob stuff to be dirty and create dust.
Have used corn cob for 30 years or more . Now I use corn cob and walnut shell( 3 tumblers on bench ) The walnut shell is lizard litter from the pet store. Really can't tell a lot of difference but have slight preference for corncob .
From experience with vibrator type polisher and media.
I use the tuff nut walnut that has the red rouge. It polishes the fastest but I have to take a paper clip or small wire and gouge the chips out of the primer pocket. I also cut pieces of dryer anti-static paper and toss in the vibrator to collect the dust. You can leave the dud primers in the case to reduce chance of primer hole getting clogged, but sometimes the walnut chips will stick in the case and break the de-capping/de-priming pin when sizing, so I just de-prime first, then clean the primer holes one at a time so as to make sure the fire channel is open and no media packed inside.
I also use corn cob for a 2nd run when I want a higher polish but the corn cob takes longer and the media don't last as long as the walnut. If the brass is really dirty I use the walnut and then later the corn cob. I have my polisher on a manual timer and usually only have to do about 2 hour run.
What ever type media you use the trick to making the media last long time is to manually or UltraSonic de-grease/remove the sizing lube from the before tossing it in the media. To de-grease before I got a Ultra Sonic I tossed the brass into a can that has some de-natured alcohol, slosh it around and then roll the brass on a paper towel or cloth so as to remove the sizing lube. The sizing lube will ruin the corn cob media in one or two runs if not de-greased good.
But, If you are going to be doing lots of brass every once in awhile, get yourself a heated Ultra Sonic for de-greasing and cleaning the brass. After it comes out of the US let it dry then send it to your POLISHING media. I bought a small Lyman reloading US at first but later bought one that is larger and can do carbs. The price on USonics is not as expensive as compared to few years ago. I've had good luck with a large China one that holds about gallon and half of water the the temp is adjustable and also the timer will run for approx 30 min's.
The small Lyman US has to be reset about every 5 min's which is a pain. (and only holds about quart of liquid)
I also work on carbs, cleaning and installing kits. Bought a large one from Amazon few years ago and don't use the small Lyman US much anymore. Be sure and get the type US that heats the cleaner and has a manual timer for 0-30 min runs. For Brass I just use heated water and Dawn dish soap.
I've not had any luck trying to use the re-juvenate additives for media. Once it gets loaded up with grease it a goner.
I've been using a lyman turbo pro vibrating polisher for several years.
For separating the brass from the media I just took a grinder cut some slits/slots in the bottom of a can or plastic container and just dump the media and brass into the can and then shake it above a catch container. The brass remains in the container.
I've don't have a tumbler type polisher. I've heard rumors that guys use stainless steel pellets when using a tumbler.
I've also found to not store re-loaded polished brass rifle shells in the old factory Winchester paper shell holder boxes. The paper/cardboard eventually removes (within few months) the bright polish color from the brass.
I used a corncob/white rice mixture with a dab of Mothers chrome polish mixed in, when I used that type of cleaner. Now I use my ultra sonic cleaner with dishwasher detergent. Shiny clean inside and out. Primer pockets too. I grew very weary of digging corncob/rice out of primer pockets and then still having to clean every primer pocket by hand. Boring tedious repetitive processes get my ire up right away.
I’ve always used crushed walnut shells.
I have never used a vibrating polisher, always used a tumbler so dust has never really been a problem. I add a little brasso on brass cases and they come out like new after tumbling.
I used to use walnut, in a vibrating cleaner, became a pain with primer holes and red polishing dust, switched to corncob , bad choice, now I use steel pins, H2O with dawn + Lemi shine, in a large Thumblers tumbler, super clean, super polished, in half the time, just saying…
I have always used walnut hulls, primarily because they were free via access to oil well drilling service company 40+ years ago.
Started with Corn Cobb (CC) which would have to tumble over night to clean 300 rounds of 44/45 mag or Colt brass. Graduated to Walnut with added jewelers rouge which cleaned faster than CC. 8-16 hours for the same 300 rounds. Yes, you have the problem with both CC & walnut media in most of the primer pockets.
Quit both & graduated to stainless steel pin and water. Havent looked back since. Pins last forever & the same number of carts are cleaned in 30 minutes rather than hours. Primer pocket & flash hole are spotless something ground walnuts or corn cob will not do. IMHO pin cleaning is far superior to vibrating tumbles & media.
I switched from vibratory with corn cob to rotary with stainless needle pins and I'd never go back. I put in Flitz and some Lemi-Shine and they come out looking new.
Of course I wouldn't use these shells that were sitting outside for a couple of years, but thought I'd see how well they cleaned up. The bottom one looked just like the top one. A few hours later, and you can see the difference.
corn cob media tends to get stuck in the flash holes of any case I've cleaned