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need help first timer reloading .223 and 8mm mause
Cyclonus
Member Posts: 2,825
im looking to get into reloading for those cartridges first thing is ill need a press so what should i get a single stage a turret press or a progressive press keep in mind it must be affordable also need to know what primers to buy as well as powders. also keep in mind i dont plan on using any heavier than a 55 grain bullet in the .223 my current budget is 150$ for the press combined with any dies and shell holders. ive looked at several presses so far and using a single stage isnt a problem just very time consuming. i did find a turret press in my range at CTD however they do not have the gauge and shell holder for the .223 in stock and cannot back order it. thanks in advance and any help would go a long way as well as be greatly appreciated.
Comments
and any primers CCi Fed Rem;
buy a couple pounds of H4895
and you can't go wrong.
(for the 223.... I don't have exp with the 8mm)
As said, most any primer is fine for everyday shooting.
I have best luck in the 223 with BLC2 and 4064 for the 8mm. However the previously mentioned 4895 will work very well with both and might be a good option for one stop shopping. Do note that a lot of load manuals download the 8mm in case someone shoots it out of an old 1888 style gun. If you get set up email me at endofwork@netzero.net and we can discuss loads. I'd also be happy to chat on the phone for a bit if you need any tips or longer discussions.
Jon
I bought a (lot) of componets that had them in there and I don't reload any .22 caliber centerfire.
300-500 pieces total.
A Lyman 49th edition is one of the best.
The Lee book is ok since you are using their equipment.
manual
press
dies
case lube
some sort of priming equipment(either press mounted or separate)
powder scale
some sort of powder measuring equipment(scoops or manual measure)
a caliper is advantageous for checking overall length and case length
case trimmer and chamfer tool
as funds allow add a case tumbler w/media and a chronograph
For the beginner, don't get crazy with reaching maximum loads. Use a middle of the road powder and bullets. For the 223 look at MidSouthShooterSupply's varmint nightmare bullets. The 55 grain with crimp groove is very good in the AR and accurate in several rifles for me. For the 8mm, I've had decent results with Remington 185 grain and Nosler 180 but those rifles are pretty much variable and no two I've had liked the same bullet/load. PriviPatisan has a 175 grain which might be a winner for paper targets.
well I got the press and my first set of dies. I am a bit annoyed as to why it didnt include a factory crimp die as now I have to buy one of those. later ill have to get my 8mm dies as well as a 6mm remington dies for grandpa and .300 win mag dies for my cousin. still have to go get primers and powders for those 2 that will involve waiting for a paycheck
You don't have to buy a factory crimp die for either the 8mm or the .223. Or, for any bottleneck case for that matter. Just load slow and careful and get your dies set up right.
For the sizer, I like to have the die come right down the the junction of the neck. If your dies are 14 tpi then you can roughly figure how much to turn the die in or out to get there. Each full turn is about .072" So half a turn is .036", 1/4 turn is .018", 1/8 turn is .009". Think of it as 1/2= point toward you goes exactly opposite. 1/4=90 deg to point toward you. 1/8= half of that or 45 deg.
To seat, with the die up a ways, run the case all the way up. Screw the seater down til it's firm on the case. Lock it. Then screw the seater plug out a bit. When you go to seat your first bullet, it will come out long. Figure out the thread pitch and divide 1 by that number. that will give you the distance, in thousandths, each revolution makes. Adjust your seating depth down as necessary.
If you want a crimp on your cases then after you've set the seater die (not the seater plug) turn the die in 1/32-1/16th. Set the seater plug after you've adjusted the die.
Just make sure your cases get sized down to fit your chambers. And, during this I recommend getting some Imperial sizing wax. I've tried all the others, nothing comes close.
I'll admit I probably dont need the crimp die for the 8mm but I will need it for the .223 as its going to be used in an autoloader that has M4 feed cuts in it and I'd rather not have any bullets pushed back into the case on it. but for a measley 10$ problem solved. I am annoyed that the 8mm lee pacesetter dies dont include a collet die but with how small the case shoulder is on that round is its probably not necessary. At least it comes with the factory crimp die. Now for a question why do the deluxe rifle die sets include 2 decappers isn't only one necessary?
cause while you are learning, and on occassion after as well, you WILL bust a decapping pin.[;)]
I'll admit I probably dont need the crimp die for the 8mm but I will need it for the .223 as its going to be used in an autoloader that has M4 feed cuts in it and I'd rather not have any bullets pushed back into the case on it. but for a measley 10$ problem solved. I am annoyed that the 8mm lee pacesetter dies dont include a collet die but with how small the case shoulder is on that round is its probably not necessary. At least it comes with the factory crimp die. Now for a question why do the deluxe rifle die sets include 2 decappers isn't only one necessary?
If you are talking about the Redding sets, one is a neck sizer the other is a full length sizer. For an AR you always want to full length size.