Casting "Boolets"... Mix Info PLEASE.

retroxler58

I continually check the reloading websites for new and improved recipes, etc...
But, one aspect keeps eluding me... CASTING and working with Home Cast Bullets.


Now... I'm not a newbie to the reloading scene.
I've got bulk lead and casting dies as well... How's your cast bullets do in y'er gun... ?

Are you hardening them with some linotype, tin, antimony, arsenic or other... ? Mix ratios... ?

Do you use Copper Gas Checks to hold the higher pressures... ?

Or do you just derate the loads to lighten the pressures... ?
So that things are just so much more simpler... [;)]

Curiously INTERESTED... !!! [:p] And ALL casting comments are WELCOME Pro or Con...




Oh... AND THANKS in advance for taking the time to help a fellow reloader... [;)]

edited for spellin'... [:(!]
I hope I learn to type someday...

perry shooter

Bullets that are lead are not hard to cast but do have a learning curve.The main thing you need to remember is the bullet when ready to load in the empty case needs to be .001-.002 LARGER then bore size and you need PROPER lube soft lube is better then hard lube You are trying to seal the bullet to the bore. Soft Swaged bullets will shoot great with good lube . The reason one puts linotype ETC mixed with lead to make a harder bullet is a MYTH. HARDNESS is not the KEY to good results with cast bullets. The real reason is this mix will produce a better quality bullet. IT will shrink LESS then pure lead and fill out all parts of the mold.
the Base is the most important area of the bullet when it comes to shooting good groups. GAS checks are not needed until 2000 FPS and even then Bore fit and lube will let you go higher without leading.
EDIT As far as what mix I have shot over 300.000 rounds of lead bullets in 45ACP I have also tested Thousands of rounds in Ransom rest. I used to buy Lino-type by the ton . Made great bullets but I have also tested swaged pure lead They also tested great . Both SUB 2 inch 10 shot groups at 50 yards. wheel weights ETC all can be good . Tin and Lino type makes the bullet fill out better in the mold and pure lead will shrink . Small bullets will lead the bore if your bore is .452 and your molds cast a pure lead bullet .452 or smaller then they WILL lead the bore same mold will drop linotype .454 and with good lube will shoot great and NOT lead. You need to find out what bore size is and go from there a bore of .450 will shoot pure lead at .452 with good results. Linotype melts at lower temp then pure lead so high temp from hotter flame front on some powders "BALL type [:(]" can vaporize the rear of a hard linotype but work well with pure lead. There is no magic bullet PUN intended when it comes to bullet alloy.

EDITHello do wa ditty I will agree to disagree without being disagreeable. However I will invite you to come observe my loading and testing of ammo and let you verify the results I allude to in all the statements I made.

FWAddit

I recommend reading a lot before buying equipment or materials. A good place to start is the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook.

charliemeyer007

I'm hoping you have sizing dies and molds for casting.
I like straight wheel weight droped from mold into water except for muzzles loaders then pure soft lead. Sometimes I use gas checks. I am considering making them from Aluminium. I look for the sweet spot where the bullet shoots good. My usual lube is 50%beeswax\50%Alox. I have used other stuff. Some bullets/guns like the bullet as cast with hand applied lube, others exact bore size or to .003" over sized. I don't like Al molds unless you don't plan on using them much. Lovern designs for rifles and Keith for revolvers. There is no magic book for loading cast bullets. Keep good notes, have fun.

retroxler58

Been reloading for a long time...

A while back... Bought some bulk lead that needs to be used up.
Got casting molds for a few of the ones I now shoot...
And a 20 pound furnace with a couple of ingot molds as well.
And all of the other "stuff" to be productive with it.

Just haven't taken the time as yet to use any of it...

Read a bunch on technique, procedure, etc...
Don't think I'll have any issues with the casting part.

Question I have is with the alloy recipe...
And whether or not Gas Checks would be beneficial.

charliemeyer007

Hard lead usually works better. If you run really hard lead alloy getting Hornady gas checks to crimp on is a pain.

Your gun and load will tell you if gas checks are required. Usually bullets designed to take a gas check work better with them installed.

bpost

Get some wheel weights, make sure they are not the newer zink ones. Melt and flux the wheel weights, you can add about 25% lead to soften it up a bit.

That formula will be fine for most pistol applications.

If you are driving a magnum, 44 or 357 use straight wheel weights and you will be fine up to about 1100 FPS with a good lube.

I shoot gas-checked rifle bullets to 2,000 FPS without leading issues.

You can water quench wheel weights to increase hardness. Just be very careful to keep water away from your pot. A lead-steam explosion is a zero fun experience.

DBMJR1

I'm finding what Perry said is exactly correct. I've been casting pure lead LSWC's in a Lee six cavity tumble lube mold, using Alox. I size them to .358 and my bore slugs to .357. I get no leading.

I find that adding tin will make for prettier bullets, but they don't knock down the plates any better.

I keep my pressures low. If I were to make one correction to Perry's comments, it would be that the velocity is not as important as the pressure.

I chrono my boolits at ~790 fps. I can push them as fast as ~1100 fps with no leading, but why.

Rocky Raab

Another vote for perry's advice.

Harder isn't better. Most of the hoopla about commercial "hard-cast bullets" is for the benefit of the bullet maker, not the shooter. Hard bullets with hard lube ship better, period. Are you casting so you can bounce bullets around in a UPS truck or casting to shoot?

Few if any handgun loads require a gas check. None below 1,200 fps do. Proper fit is far more important. Next is lube. Powder selection has an influence, but is pretty far below those top two factors.

As to equipment, all my moulds are Lee aluminum. Unless you are a klutz who drops things onto concrete floors, they will last you a very long time. You could replace them three or four times over and still spend less than buying one iron mould. (And they are a LOT less tiresome to use, too.)

As to the original question about "mix" it really isn't that critical. Saints Elmer and Skeeter used pure lead with a bit of tin added to get crisper edges on their bullets. Keith considered a 1-10 mix of tin-lead to be "hard cast" and he usually worked with 1-16 alloy. Today, those would be considered too soft.

Wheelweights or any similar leadish mix is just fine for any handgun and most rifle bullets. No water-dropping, heat treating, or gas checks required. I personally use wheelweights, range scrap, scuba weights, and recycled shotgun shot. I mix a little bit of each to stay somewhat consistent, but don't even bother to weigh how much of each.

BTW, I also use Lee Liquid Alox or an LLA and Johnson Paste Wax mix as a simple tumble lube. I don't even size most bullets. You can't get much simpler than that - and I do not get bore leading. Accuracy is all I need in any of my guns. That includes 9 Makarov, .38 Special, .357 Mag, .41 Special, .44 Special, .45 Colt, and several .30-caliber cartridges. (I size the .30-caliber bullets only to apply gas checks, using a Lee push-through die.)