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Looking for 5.56 reloading information
JnRockwall
Member Posts: 16,350 ✭✭✭
So I have 875 cases once used cases. I have sorted them down to 5.56 only. Got the bugs, dirt and everything else out of them.
This is military brass, as I stated once fired. So about what will my loss be out these rounds? I culled 5 that were bent or cracked while sorting and counting.
Think I will lose 25? 50 or more?
So my next step is to?? Deprime them? Does the sizing and depriming take place in the same stroke?
After I get the primers out, I need to send them to the polishing tub, I guess. Which is better, corn or walnut? Which would be best for 800 rounds of really dirty brass?
Now comes the hard part:
I would like to make these sub-sonic rounds, at least slow them down as much as possible. I don't know what that would be, but I can't imagine they would ever come in under 1050 fps.
So should I consider using a 75 grain bullet? If I do, is this going to be ok to shoot in all barrels no matter the twist rate?
What would be your choice in powder? Primers? Bullet?
All info is helpful.
Thx
This is military brass, as I stated once fired. So about what will my loss be out these rounds? I culled 5 that were bent or cracked while sorting and counting.
Think I will lose 25? 50 or more?
So my next step is to?? Deprime them? Does the sizing and depriming take place in the same stroke?
After I get the primers out, I need to send them to the polishing tub, I guess. Which is better, corn or walnut? Which would be best for 800 rounds of really dirty brass?
Now comes the hard part:
I would like to make these sub-sonic rounds, at least slow them down as much as possible. I don't know what that would be, but I can't imagine they would ever come in under 1050 fps.
So should I consider using a 75 grain bullet? If I do, is this going to be ok to shoot in all barrels no matter the twist rate?
What would be your choice in powder? Primers? Bullet?
All info is helpful.
Thx
Comments
(And I find that after sizing most of the LC brass takes more than a few turns on the trimmer )
I'll leave this here for a bit, but the folks over in CS&R have been more than a little helpful answering these same questions for me so I will move the topic over there if there are not a lot of suggestions.
My 2cents, (as has been told to me 100 times) get a good reloading guide and read it cover to cover then get another. After the third, compare what they all say for the same load.
So I have 875 cases once used cases. I have sorted them down to 5.56 only. Got the bugs, dirt and everything else out of them.
This is military brass, as I stated once fired. So about what will my loss be out these rounds? I culled 5 that were bent or cracked while sorting and counting.
Think I will lose 25? 50 or more?
So my next step is to?? Deprime them? Does the sizing and depriming take place in the same stroke?
After I get the primers out, I need to send them to the polishing tub, I guess. Which is better, corn or walnut? Which would be best for 800 rounds of really dirty brass?
Now comes the hard part:
I would like to make these sub-sonic rounds, at least slow them down as much as possible. I don't know what that would be, but I can't imagine they would ever come in under 1050 fps.
So should I consider using a 75 grain bullet? If I do, is this going to be ok to shoot in all barrels no matter the twist rate?
What would be your choice in powder? Primers? Bullet?
All info is helpful.
Thx
I reload .223/5.56.
Before I, or anyone else, offer advice, I need an answer to one question.......Do you have any reloading manuals or previous experience?
OK, actually that's TWO questions, but I'd still like answers.
If they are military brass you will need to swage the primer pocket after depriming. (I use the Dillon)
(And I find that after sizing most of the LC brass takes more than a few turns on the trimmer )
I'll leave this here for a bit, but the folks over in CS&R have been more than a little helpful answering these same questions for me so I will move the topic over there if there are not a lot of suggestions.
My 2cents, (as has been told to me 100 times) get a good reloading guide and read it cover to cover then get another. After the third, compare what they all say for the same load.
Good advice has been given but I get my data from about 20 different reloading books. Bullets, Primers and Powder are ever changing what worked yesterday might be might not work as well today.
You can never have enough and you can go on-line and get even more information.
No I have no equipment, no experience. This is a fresh start venture for me. I know there is a lot of data available. I have kin folks who reload a lot of other calibers and have said I could use their loaders and they could show me how to get started.
Of all the info in the internet, I trust you guys up front and foremost. One I get all of your input, I feel it will point me in the direction I need to start off in. While most maybe experience, some will be opinion and more important to me, you guys have no problems talking about your failures.
I will be getting a book this week. But as for just getting the brass deprimed and cleaned would be 1 less thing to worry about later. And I am thinking you can't screw up depriming and cleaning. But I have been wrong before...
And one other thing, there's a guy in McKinney who has an automated machine that does the deprime, trim, clean and size in one shot. I am not sure how much that service is or it's actual cost, but I plan on asking him.
So I have 875 cases once used cases. I have sorted them down to 5.56 only. Got the bugs, dirt and everything else out of them.
This is military brass, as I stated once fired. So about what will my loss be out these rounds? I culled 5 that were bent or cracked while sorting and counting.
Think I will lose 25? 50 or more?
So my next step is to?? Deprime them? Does the sizing and depriming take place in the same stroke?
After I get the primers out, I need to send them to the polishing tub, I guess. Which is better, corn or walnut? Which would be best for 800 rounds of really dirty brass?
Now comes the hard part:
I would like to make these sub-sonic rounds, at least slow them down as much as possible. I don't know what that would be, but I can't imagine they would ever come in under 1050 fps.
So should I consider using a 75 grain bullet? If I do, is this going to be ok to shoot in all barrels no matter the twist rate?
What would be your choice in powder? Primers? Bullet?
All info is helpful.
Thx
Use walnut to clean brass. Corn cob to polish. With walnut get the finest there is for 223/556. The course stuff will plug it and you will be @#%$&* all the time digging it out [B)] Walnut with jewlers rouge will polish also.
I would not expect any more case loss than any other brass so maybe 1-2%.
Generally speaking, there is no "5.56" reloading data. The load books use the .223 and those loads normally require a reduction of up to 10% in powder charge for the thicker 5.56 brass.
I would not expect any more case loss than any other brass so maybe 1-2%.
Yes, I realized this today. I also found something else a bit confusing. I am told to use .224 bullets for a .223 load.
Here is the starter unit I am considering, let me know if it's worth it or not.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/749997/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit
I chose it because it appears simple, It's affordable price and it is on sale on top of that PLUS 500 bullets. Too good to be true?
On sizing and depriming. If loading for an AR, make sure it will chamber after sizing. I have found I need to cam mine over significantly to bump shoulder back enough, even for a 5.56 chamber. Just take a sized piece of brass, no primer or anything. start in chamber then let bolt close. If it is sticky to open(I've stuck one pretty good once), shoulder not back enough. I've never needed small base dies. But have only loaded for 5.56 and wylde chambered ARs'.
Some have alrady addressed the crimp removal after depriming. A reamer works as well.
Ramshot powder has some load data for 5.56. Basically, higher pressure 223. You can get it online. I like X-Terminater and XMR-2015 powder for 60gr bullets or lighter. 50-55 I shoot most. Have used TAC as well for 55-60gr. Others will recommend powders for heavier bullets. I change cartriges for my long range stuff.
Yes, 5.56 or 223 Remington takes a .224 bullet. Check with inlaws and get help started. I've never seen much success with sub-sonic loads with 223, especially in and AR.
The load books use the .223 and those loads normally require a reduction of up to 10% in powder charge for the thicker 5.56 brass.
I would not expect any more case loss than any other brass so maybe 1-2%.
Although this may be true for Military 308 and 30-06 brass it is less true with 223/5.56 brass. In fact, most Military 5.56 brass has more case capacity than civilian 223 brass.
From Sierra.
The conventional wisdom to reduce loads with military brass is familiar to most reloaders and is generally good advice. The rationale here is that the military cases tend to be somewhat thicker and heavier than their civilian counterparts, which in turn reduces capacity and raises pressures. This additional pressure normally requires a one or two grain reduction from the loads shown in most manuals or other data developed with commercial cases. While this is most often the situation with both 308 Winchester and 30-06 cases, it is less true with the 223 brass. We have found that military cases often have significantly more capacity than several brands of commercial brass. Again, take the time to do a side-by-side comparison of the cases you are working with and adjust your load as needed. There may be no need for such a reduction with the 223. Know your components and keep them segregated accordingly.
Link
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm
Here is another example. Scroll down to "Case weight vs Capacity".
http://www.6mmbr.com/223rem.html
I use H335 for my powder due to the Lee powder dispenser I am using.It likes it and meters very well.
I also shoot an AR and I have never needed to use small base dies.
I also use the Lee Factory Crimp die and have had no issues with several thousand loaded.
Please take the time to read a few reloading manuals cover-to-cover.
It is WELL worth the small effort. I am self-taught, through reading the manuals. I wish I had a father/uncle/cousin that reloaded, but I did not. I actually started reading and watched many U-Tube videos. My first cartridge of my own making was a hoot! I wore a heavy coat, gloves, and safety glasses. Since then, I still wear the glasses, but I feel comfortable letting my kids shoot every round I load.
Best, Brian
Jn, remember that the "223 Remington" is just a cartridge name designating an individual centerfire round. The actual bullet diameter is .224 inch... or as the Europeans call it: 5.56x47mm (Bullet diameter x case length).
This is the same bullet diameter as the .22 Hornet*(newer bore), .218 Bee, .219 Zipper, .220 Swift, .221 Rem Fireball, .222 Remington, .222 Rem Magnum, .224 Weatherby Magnum, .225 Winchester, .226 JDJ, and the .22-250 Remington. All have names denoting a differing bore size, but instead it's just a trade name to make one round (.223 Rem for example) different from the other rounds (.222 Rem, etc).
It is confusing, but at least it's now pretty standardized. Back in the days of old, many manufacturers would not put a rivals' name on their guns, so there could be 4 or 5 names for the exact same round. (You still see it now with S&W and Glock, neither will put ".357 Sig" on their guns, they call them .357 auto.)
There is also the different names for cartridges that are in use around the world. In the US, the John Browning designed .380 auto is very popular. It is also called the .380 ACP (Automatic Colt Pistol). In Europe it can be called the 9x17, the 9mm Browning Short, the 9mm Kurz (German for short) or 9mm Corto (Italian for short). Same round, different (and very confusing) names. This is why we always stress to have an 'unknown" caliber checked by a good gunsmith, and bore and chamber castings are also recommended if one is unsure.
* Old hornets were .223" diameter, but newer ones may be found .224". Other .22 calibers (22 Savage hi-power, .22 Newton for example) were .228"
After I get the primers out, I need to send them to the polishing tub, I guess. Which is better, corn or walnut? Which would be best for 800 rounds of really dirty brass?
Clean and polish first. Many reloaders hate when a piece of tumbling media gets stuck in the flash hole.
Before choosing a bullet weight , find the twist rate of your rifle. As a rule of thumb the faster the twist rate the heavtier the bullet. A year ago I began reloading the 223/5.56.
A subsonic round will work in a single shot or bolt action but might not cycle a semi-auto.