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.308 handloads wont chamber/extract?

cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
Put together my first .308 handloads last night. Recipe was 43 grains of RL-15 behind a 168 gr AMAX in once fired Hornady Match cases, with CCI LR primers, COAL of 2.80.

I used the NECK sizing die from a Redding DELUXE set. I set the die per instructions. The case lengths were all within spec. Bullets seated easily and I did not apply any crimp.

When attempting to chamber in a Savage 308, the round would run almost fully into the chamber, but when I tried to lock/lower the bolt, it was overly tight. After I did lock the bolt, the bolt refused to open to unload the round without considerable effort. I didnt have access to my good calipers, but my dads basic set showed that my hand load brass seemed to be a bit larger in diameter around the mid/lower body than factory stuff we had on hand.

I didnt discern anything "off" in the shoulder/neck region just by looking, but that doesnt mean it isnt so.

Any suggestions?

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    JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    measure the dia at the shoulder/neck junction and see if there is a "bulge" at that point. If so, the seating die body is too far down. Back it off and bring the seater plug down to make the difference.
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    Hawk CarseHawk Carse Member Posts: 4,367 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Was the brass from ammunition fired IN THAT RIFLE?
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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 Hawk Carse and JustC

    Make sure your bullets are deep enough, smoke the ogive with soot and then chamber a round, extract and look for marks in the soot.

    Some rifles need full length sized brass everytime.

    Might be a max die in a min chamber.
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,779 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Inadequate resizing is my guess.
    Just my opinion but, a beginner should not be using somewhat advanced reloading techniques(neck sizing) before mastering the basics using full length resized brass.
    I normally have multiple rifles for each caliber, therefore, seldom consider neck sizing. I don't feel that full length resizing costs significant useable accuracy.
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    Sounds like the brass was fired in a semi-auto. They have larger chambers to "self clean"
    You will have to full length size before using in your 308.
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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks everyone.

    These rounds were previously fired from a Remington 700 and a different model Savage 110 rifle. The rifle we tried to load them in was a basic Savage Axis, just to see if we could tighten its groups up a bit.

    I was unaware that neck sizing was a more advanced technique, but I will certainly back up, disassemble, and try the same loads with my full length die. Ill check for a bulge as well.

    As always you guys are a huge help, thanks again.
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    FrancFFrancF Member Posts: 35,278 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It helps if your neck sizing only to keep your brass dedicated to that rifle.
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    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by FrancF
    It helps if your neck sizing only to keep your brass dedicated to that rifle.


    It not only helps, it's essential.
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    Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,584 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Also I suggest after you full length RESIZE a couple of the empty brass hulls mqke a test run then!
    If ok then reload these two and make a chambering test. If they are now snug you know that you messed up the shoulder neck area when the bullet was inserted!

    If you do finally get into neck sizing only of the SAME fired BRASS from that rifle, do the chambering steps tests again before the final re-loading. Sometimes you might run into a rifle that neck sizing ONLY will result in snug chambering brass and you have to go to a full length sizing die and gently start snuging it down until the brass chambers properly. Always check your reloaded rounds in a safe place BEFORE GOING TO THE woods hunting or too the range. (and label the reloads as chamber tested)
    I don't mind deer hunting with a somewhat snug bolt on a bolt action rifle when chambering a neck sized only round while in the field if I have pretested the ammo for chambering and extraction beforehand. (and I've done the reloading myself)
    Some of my rifles will not allow me to use a NECK sizer ONLY die due to hot rounds (max loads) and or tight chambers and I have to use a full lenth sizer die and gently work (tightened) the die down in 1/4 turn steps until the brass properly chambers.
    When using and adjusting the same neck sizing die for several different rifles of same caliber, I use a propane cigerette lighter on the neck of a empty brass case and apply flame soot to the neck by holding the brass neck and shoulder momentarily at the tip of the propane flame and then make a test run into the die and read the results. Adjust the die until you get the amount of neck sizing that you or the gun desires![;)]
    If the gun is a hunting rifle you won't see much difference usually in accuracy from neck sizing vs full length sizing. My main purpose for neck sizing only is to extend the re-loadable life of my brass. Can reload neck sized only brass several times vs only a few times for full length resized!
    I can get more consistent accuracy from a hunting rifle by trying to match my reloading brass by weight (ususally within 5 grains or less by weight) vs just regular neck sizing. I've proven on paper that heavy weight brass and light weight brass mixed together with same reload can make some accurate guns really look bad on paper, especially if you have any military brass mixed with name brand brass. (the heavier brass has a smaller inside volume)
    But again I have few rifles that don't seem to matter much what I feed them for good accuracy, they are just inheriently accurate!
    Welcome to the reloading world!
    Stay safe.
    and
    NOTICE: DUE TO THE RISING COST OF AMMO (AND RELOADING COMPONENTS) I NO LONGER FIRE A WARNING SHOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,814 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by cwinn
    Thanks everyone.

    These rounds were previously fired from a Remington 700 and a different model Savage 110 rifle. The rifle we tried to load them in was a basic Savage Axis, just to see if we could tighten its groups up a bit.
    I was unaware that neck sizing was a more advanced technique, but I will certainly back up, disassemble, and try the same loads with my full length die. Ill check for a bulge as well.

    As always you guys are a huge help, thanks again.


    That could have been the start of your difficulties. I try to shoot factory ammo in the gun I am going to reload for. This forms the brass to the chamber.

    If I read correctly, you just neck sized the brass?? This is exactly what you want to do if you fired the case the 1st time in the intended gun.

    I'd follow the advice you have been given by others about your dies because you have fired them out of other rifles.
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    CbtEngr01CbtEngr01 Member Posts: 4,340
    edited November -1
    Allot of good advice. Neck size only brass that has been fire formed to a specific rifle.
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