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Low smoke 45ACP reloads

v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
Need low smoke powder recommendation for lead and plated lead bullets
200-250 gr.
I've got a can of at least 10 year old knurled 200 gr SWC bullets. Lube doesn't look so hot.
Should I spray relube them?

Comments

  • geeguygeeguy Member Posts: 1,047
    edited November -1
    Take a bowl and use a few drops of the Alox with a few drops of Mineral oil, roll around until coated. Assure you clean your seating die after loading and you may wish to wipe the nose after crimp.

    I generally like to warm the bullets with a hair dryer while rolling them in a bowl as it makes the Alox flow much better. A few drops will do 50+ bullets. Very "light" coating is all you need.

    Best of luck
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    WW 231 (HP38) and Tite Group burn very clean.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I keep my cast bullets in coffee cans with lids or closed boxes. Make sure the lube is not gritty.

    I never had any problems with smoke. Heavy soot deposits and a lot of unburnt powder has caused some problems in wheel guns and autoloaders. With small charges of powder make sure the base of the bullet is lube free. Perhaps MO is minerial oil.
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,429 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Cast bullets will always be a bit "smokier" than plated or jacketed, because of the lube. Wax=based lubes are better than petroleum-based ones for this. Regular Johnson's Paste Wax makes an excellent bullet lube. Just melt it over very low heat, pour a teaspoon of it over about 200 bullets (also warm). Swirl in a plastic tub and spread on waxed paper to cool and dry. In summer, you can simply set bullets and wax in the sun for a while to bring them to the perfect lubing temp.

    If you have some Lee Liquid Alox, mix it 50/50 with melted Johnson's Paste Wax and stir in a small amount of mineral spirits. This 45/45/10 mix combines the best attributes of both lubes into one. The secret is to use VERY little. Again, about a teaspoon for 200 bullets is plenty.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • geeguygeeguy Member Posts: 1,047
    edited November -1
    (sorry V35 to steal the time on your thread)

    Rocky: What is the purpose of the wax in the 45/45/10 mix? I did try this and saw no difference with .45 ACP at 50 yds from a Ransom vs. the Alox & MO mix, plus the dies had more build up. Does the wax make a better seal?

    I think I got that 45/45/10 recipe from Castboolits, but didn't see any advantage in my testing (which was informal and only thru one gun).

    Sorry V35: MO= Mineral Oil
    Also might recommend the Lee final crimp die if you don't have one, as it corrects many issues.

    Rocky: Thanks for the correction, it is Mineral "spirits" not mineral oil. I'll tryn the paste wax additive again.
  • cpermdcpermd Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Solo 1000 gives the least smoke of any powder I have used.
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The Kahr TP45 is a new addition to my accumulation (collection isn't accurate). The former owner said it jammed from a tight chamber which smoked up in a few shots. His said no more than 100 rds went through it due to jamming from smoked chamber and bulging crimps.
    I found the extractor seriously at fault. It now feeds several bullet styles smoothly with the slide spring removed and will easily snap over a round dropped into the chamber.
    Positive feed in an auto is a bad idea. The Army stipulated in its' procurement, loading of single rounds is a requirement.
    I haven't loaded 45ACP for about 40 years and then it was for revolver so I welcomed your comments.
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've found smoke to be the enemy of small pocket pistols like Keltec P3AT and P11 where rounds have to be pushed up a steeper ramp angle than on service size pistols.
    Feed ramps and chambers can be polished to brilliance but a little smoke
    on the ramps creates feed problems.
    What is MO in the Alox and Mo lube?
  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,429 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Note well: The 45/45/10 mix uses mineral spirits, not mineral oil. Think paint thinner.

    The major complaints about LLA are that it is too thick, dries too slowly, and stays sticky forever. Adding Johnson's Paste Wax and a bit of mineral spirits thins the LLA, helps it dry quicker, and makes the dried lube slicker. The carnauba wax in the JPW is a fine bullet lube by itself.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sounds good. Is that formulation by weight or volume?
    The sticky forever comment reminds me of an original bullet lube I made from a Dixie GW muzzle loading bullet lube formula 40-50 years ago. It was whale oil and beeswax. Anyway, I still have some and some whale oil and wouldn't recommend it for anything.
    On the Kahr and smoky ammo jams, I tried it today with factory FMJ and plus P HP after modifying the extractor. The FMJ fed about 95% and the +P 100%. Smoky chamber wasn't an issue at all. It was a too heavy slide spring not permitting the slide to fully recoil with standard loads.
    I don't believe Wolf has a calibration pack of recoil springs and will see what Kahr has to say on Monday.
    The need to clear a feed jam in a pistol having an extractor that by design wont snap over a cartridge rim is a correctable mistake.
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