Forming 222 from 223 --

peabo

Since 223 brass is so plentiful, have any of you formed 223 to 222?
How did it work out?

Searching through my older dies, I found this set of form and trim dies. I assume that since you are only setting back the shoulder and staying the same caliber, it wouldn't require neck turning, even using 5.56 brass.

Would they be useful, or is 222 brass plentiful?

charliemeyer007

Somewhere I have a couple a 100 that were done from gi ammo with standard dies. They were loaded with cast bullets and were shot upwards of 30 time before starting to fail from worn out primer pockets. Stroke lightly when using that file trim die or it will eat your file.

Mobuck

I don't think 222 brass is that hard to find or overly expensive. I always caution that such reformed ammo never finds it's way into a rifle chambered for the original headstamp.

62fuelie

I did it just to see what the possibilities were. It works fine. I used my Lyman case trimmer to reduce the length. They chamber just fine and I use the same load I use with .222 dies. I did use Federal cases instead of military. Rounds shot to same point of impact and the accuracy matched the .222 case loads.

sandwarrior

I formed a bunch of LC match cases to make my best shooting load ever. I did trim the neck down to properly match the chamber. You don't have to, but usually the thicker case material needs it.

dcs shooters

You only move the shoulder back .060 then trim the same from the mouth.
It took 10min to chamber a 222 to 223 with a finish reamer when I did a 700HB varmit rifle a few years ago.

AR15_MAN

I would be careful using the 5.56mm brass as it has thicker walls, thus leaving a smaller internal space (as noted by a knowledgeable moderator in a earlier post) which could lead to much higher pressures in the 222 loads. IMHO...

sandwarrior

quote:Originally posted by AR15_MAN
I would be careful using the 5.56mm brass as it has thicker walls, thus leaving a smaller internal space (as noted by a knowledgeable moderator in a earlier post) which could lead to much higher pressures in the 222 loads. IMHO...


This is true. This is also why you work up separately when individual components are changed, such as thicker cases. Just remember to work up and you will come up to best accuracy and individual limits for each component used. As is typical with the process, you will end up backing off to the best accuracy you can attain.

deadeye46

i don't think changing any brass to a different size is a good idea unless the only way is to get a certain shell(30/35 Herrett,etc)i'm always afraid i'll get'em mixed up at a later date(264mag from 7mag etc)would be an example,just my two cents

do_wa_diddy

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=AP222SP&name=Prvi+.222+Remington+50grn+Soft+Point+20rd+Box&groupid=19

sandwarrior

quote:Originally posted by do_wa_diddy
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=AP222SP&name=Prvi+.222+Remington+50grn+Soft+Point+20rd+Box&groupid=19


Not a bad price...but still a lot more than all the "free" .223 you can get at ranges.

Then again, if it's accuracy you want, the best way to go is:

http://www.eabco.com/store/products/Lapua_Brass_for_Handloaders_Reloading_Brass_100_pcs-1830-0.html

or:

http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Rifle Brass/Lapua/LAP-4PH5002

Or these:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/189575/hornady-reloading-brass-222-remington-box-of-50