In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
New to reloading
Dr.Nipps
Member Posts: 642 ✭✭✭✭
I've been shooting on a limited basis for years and now getting into reloading. I have a turret press, die sets for both size ammo I will be loading, and a scale (all a gift). Were can I get a good book with illistrations, and a source of reference to begin the process. I'm mechanically inclinded but have even seen someone reload before. If there is a total beginning I'm starting there.
thanks for the help
Oh and I'll be loading ACP.45 and ruger .480 if that helps.
thanks for the help
Oh and I'll be loading ACP.45 and ruger .480 if that helps.
Comments
Thanks
Mike
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25237/catid/1/Dillon_Square_Deal___039_B__039_
thanks for your time
Thanks for any help for a newbie trying his hand at cutting costs to continue to shoot.
use lee challanger for basic, & lee c frame to seat bullets. hand dip each case, use hp38 powder for 5 handgun cal. use h4895 for 3 mil surplus cal. keep it simple stupid! also cast lead bullets for same. do any other reloaders follow a routine like this?
A good place to start. I do need to update some of the links.
Welcome, WELCOME, WELCOME!
http://forums.GunBroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=498276
A good place to start. I do need to update some of the links.
Welcome, WELCOME, WELCOME!
Oh wow I got use to just skipping the stickies as they never change under the other sections. Thanks for the reminder.
Basie hand tools like a Lyman 310 set or a Lee Loader will work.
The Lyman Loading manual will cover cast as well as jacketed bullets.
Check your local stores for powder and primers as shipping on haz mat stuff is high.
Gun shows can be a good source of used equipment and partial boxes of components.
Rule #1 All reloading manuals are not the same...
Which one is more right?
quote:Originally posted by FrancF
Rule #1 All reloading manuals are not the same...
Which one is more right?
you buy several, and cross reference between them. If one has a top end load far past the others, then you know to approach that load VERY carefully, while looking for pressure signs.
quote:Originally posted by FrancF
Rule #1 All reloading manuals are not the same...
Which one is more right?
They're all basically "right"- it just goes to show that the same load yields different pressures and velocities when fired in different chambers, the chambers being identical in appearance. I prefer to check about three sources, then start at the lowest starting load and increase using the methods noted by Ken Waters for his load development.
If I could choose only one book regarding handloading it would be Ken Waters' Pet Loads.
http://www.GunBroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=462539754
Depends on your rifle's chamber but a Lyman Tap in full length sizer would be a useful accessory hand tool.
quote:Originally posted by Dr.Nipps
quote:Originally posted by FrancF
Rule #1 All reloading manuals are not the same...
Which one is more right?
They're all basically "right"- it just goes to show that the same load yields different pressures and velocities when fired in different chambers, the chambers being identical in appearance. I prefer to check about three sources, then start at the lowest starting load and increase using the methods noted by Ken Waters for his load development.
If I could choose only one book regarding handloading it would be Ken Waters' Pet Loads.
You wrote: If I could choose only one book regarding handloading it would be Ken Waters' Pet Loads.
I stumbled across Ken's pet loads book few years later after reloading, glass bedding and testing several guns (rifles) for very accurate hunting loads and when I looked in his book most of his pet loads listed was what I had in my log book for most calibers. (he had loads listed that I had found the hard way, reloading and testing) (especially suggested most accurate powders and general info about the caliber and bullet weights) I look at usually around 3 different reload manuals for suggested rifle loads and Ken's book, I then reload and test.
My most contrary rifles to find accurate reloads for are usually the type with custom long wimpy barrels.
So the ABC reloading book came in and I've been reading it. Is there a quick chart for different symptoms of pending failures? Seems like errors seen on spent casing could be signs of multiple problems.
You are looking for a bright ring about 1/4 of the way up the case, that case is done, it will soon fail. Do not confuse the bright ring at the web where the die stops sizing, that ring is normal.
You can reduce case failure issues by sizing the brass the minimum needed for the chamber and keeping loads reasonable. Headspace causes case failure, by not oversizing the brass you reduce the chance of shoving the shoulder back more than necessary.
Some rifles used with precision brass fired in good chambers can get 20 firings out of a single case before retiring it. [^]
I tend to keep rifles that have good chambers so I can just barely neck size brass. Annealing is good along with less crimp and proper trim and champher.
All brass is not created equal, some are way better than others.
Keep a notebook for your loads or at least put an index card in the plastic box or write on the side of paper boxes. Loading #, date, bullet, powder and charge, primer, then notes like trimmed or FL sized.
Read the Lyman book also. Split necks are not really an issue. Full case head separation or blown primers is a different story. I have brass that has been shot 50+ times.
I tend to keep rifles that have good chambers so I can just barely neck size brass. Annealing is good along with less crimp and proper trim and champher.
All brass is not created equal, some are way better than others.
Keep a notebook for your loads or at least put an index card in the plastic box or write on the side of paper boxes. Loading #, date, bullet, powder and charge, primer, then notes like trimmed or FL sized.
AS stated. Get the Lyman reloading manual and read.
Keep a good log of your brass as too How many times the brass has been trimmed from max length to minimum length, number of times full sized, number of times neck sized, etc.
I have brass in use that has been reloaded 20 times or more by neck sizing only the amount needed for easy chambering. Always check (chamber test) neck sized reloads BEFORE taking the reloads hunting or for that matter any reloaded ammo.
I keep a tag or label on my reloads as to how many times it's been reloaded, trimmed, neck sized etc. I use permanent marks a lot pens to color code the ends of the brass hulls as to the number of times reloaded neck sized. (number of times trimmed is a separate log entry) (I only color code up to about 4 times with different colors, then have refer to the log if no color code on the head of the brass) example Black=1, Red=2, Purple=3, etc. I try to use the lowest neck sized brass as my hunting laods and the higher numbered reloaded brass as practice rounds and scope sighting brass reloads. I also weigh my brass and keep my brass separated into lots that are within about 5 grains of weight. Mixed up brass of different weights in a normally very accurate rifle will make the gun's accuracy look bad usually. (velocities can vary greatly with the same loads and therefore accuracy out the window in mixed weight brass)
Consistency seems to be one of the main reasons I rload and one of the the major key to accuracy.
After my brass has required TRIMMING 3rd time trimming I label the brass for reduced low recoil loads only. After 3 trimmings rifle brass usually becomes thin or brittle but can still be used if you want to play with reduced loads. Some brass is better than others, but NEW Winchester and Remington is two of the better ones. Do not buy any brass labeled as once fired or used because you are asking for trouble.
Also it's quite common for Winchester or Remington new brass to need trimming even when new because it's almost at the maximum length required and will be at or over the max length when first fired. This new trim is not counted because it's a new prepare trim for 1st reload. It's also common if you do not immediately check and trim the new brass it will need trimmed before the 1st once fired reload. This one does count as a trim therefore do it before it's actually required. If you shoot max hot loads in a good chamber you will find that the brass will stretch constantly and shortened the life of the brass. If you ever bust or pull the head off of a fired reload (and you probably will) and the case is stuck in the chamber do not panic, just take a cleaning rod with a chamber brush that fits little snug in the stuck case, insert it into the chamber and pull back and the chamber brush will normally extract the brass case.
Also get yourself a Stuck case remover for your sizing dies. RCBS has a good one. GET it before you actually need it. When the stuck case happens in your sizing die you need the stuck case remover immediately to ease the pain and continue reloading.
Welcome to the reloading world. Also it's a never ending learning process and hobby. (also rewarding) You will get to know your guns.
Also when you see a load listed for any caliber refer to another reload manual to confirm YOU are on the right page. Example: some reload manuals have pistol calibers listed for loads that are not safe in rifles as silhouette loads and you can get on the wrong page easily in these type manuals using the same caliber data. These types usually the freebie grab references from vendors. I usually refer to at least three manuals or sources before I start a reload for a caliber I've not reloaded for previously.
Stay safe.