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Cleaning brass cases

DieHard4DieHard4 Member Posts: 2,373 ✭✭✭✭✭
Is it necessary to thoroughly clean the inside of cases for reloading? I was cleaning mine inside and out to look new, but I bought some that was only cleaned on the outside. Wondering if there is any real point or necessity to make the insides look like the outsides. I figured it would prevent damage to the dies. And while we are at it, how about cleaning shot shell insides?

Comments

  • goldeneagle76goldeneagle76 Member Posts: 4,359
    edited November -1
    I do not clean the insides. Never had issues. Have also heard that cleaning them completely in/out can make the reloading a little tough because some of the residue on the inside acts as a lube.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I hand scrape my primer pockets. I don't own or operate a tumbler. I have borrowed one on occasion for treating old GI cases back in the day.
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use a vibratory cleaner. I also use the primer pocket tool that attaches to my cordless drill. Cleaning fouling will never hurt the case, or the dies.

    100_0347.jpg

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    after sizing, I place them in boiling water with a small amount of white vinegar and a dash of dish soap. Then I rinse in clean water, and dry them in the oven on a cookie sheet. That removes all sizing lube which can contaminate the powder and/or primer.
    100_0349.jpg
  • Ray BRay B Member Posts: 11,822
    edited November -1
    There is a danger with brass that is too clean. The brass that is next to the brass of the bullet can "cold weld" over time resulting in increased resistance for the bullet to start it's movement when fired. A thin layer of powder residue from the previous shot is sufficient insulation to prevent this problem.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    The only brass I get * about inside cleanliness with is the stuff from black powder cartridges. With that I use ss pins and water.

    I tumble other brass to get any dirt off before it goes in the dies, and tumble rifle brass after sizing again to remove lube. I could wet tumble these too, but the reality is an hour in the vibratory is good enough, and the wet tumble cycle takes a few hours at least, plus drying time.

    I certainly don't worry about what's in the case in terms of soot, and don't even clean primer pockets unless they are causing primer seating issues- which is never.
  • DieHard4DieHard4 Member Posts: 2,373 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a primer pocket cleaner that I use, but I gather from here that perhaps it is not so necessary, maybe even bad to thoroughly clean the rest of the inside.
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    "There is a danger with brass that is too clean. The brass that is next to the brass of the bullet can "cold weld" over time"

    In almost 50 years of reloading, I've never had this happen. I have a whole shelf of tumblers and use them judiciously(exuberantly). While clean primer pockets are the most important, getting the inside of the case clean is worthwhile. A clean, residue free outside will increase the life of your sizing dies and make sizing easier(take this advice from someone who has actually worn out a sizing die).
  • nononsensenononsense Member Posts: 10,928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    DieHard4,

    quote:Is it necessary to thoroughly clean the inside of cases for reloading?

    I think the answer depends upon the consistency you want to achieve with your reloading. Eliminating variables is what consistency is all about and clean cases, both onside and out, including the primer pocket is part of that drill.

    Now, can you reload cases which are not clean on the inside?

    Sure. Many, many folks do this daily when reloading for hunting, plinking and general pleasure shooting. If the accuracy level achieved with their process suites them, that's great. You can't argue with self satisfaction.

    However, those of us who attempt to wring that last little bit from accuracy loads will usually go to the end of the world to achieve their goal. I personally use S.S. pins, detergent and Lemi-Shine in a Thumbler. This gets all the fouling out of the inside and the primer pocket as well as the outside of each case. It eliminates the potential of fouling creating a problem. It's also a very fast turn around as compared to vibratory cleaners.

    quote:The brass that is next to the brass of the bullet can "cold weld" over time resulting in increased resistance for the bullet to start it's movement when fired. A thin layer of powder residue from the previous shot is sufficient insulation to prevent this problem.

    I have never heard of this or run into this personally and I keep a test library of accuracy loads to use as a diagnostic constant for every rifle I shoot. This spans at least 3 decades of loads. Not to say it can't happen, it's just that I have never encountered it.

    Best.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I think what you're already seeing in your answers is, "ask ten people, get 10 responses." I think that before stainless steel tumbling came around, there was no practical way to clean the inside of cases, and that black powder aside, bothering to do so is the height of wasting time- at least if that's what you're going after to do, unless it's just for purely cosmetic desire. As I said, I also feel cleaning primer pockets is a waste of time.

    Yet other experienced reloaders here think that both are not only useful but necessary. I'd challenge anyone to shoot dirty cases side by side with squeaky clean ones and see if they see a difference, but as was also said: If you're satisfied with it, then that's the main thing. I drive a Ford, if the next guy is happy with his Honda, that's great. I wouldn't criticize anyone cleaning the inside of their cases by any means, as they DO offer a certain satisfaction in looking great.

    I think we can all agree in any case, from a safety point of view, it isn't needed.

    For many years before I got even a tumbler, my cleaning routine was to simply take loaded ammo, put in an old towel, spritz with some purple power and water, and roll back and forth to remove lube before it went in the gun. I got some gold medals at Camp Perry doing that. I've beaten some of the guys who clean every time, anneal every time, only use premium components, etc., doing that. But I've also had my clock cleaned by guys who did all that. So, just give a whirl and see.
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