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stuck case question
toad67
Member Posts: 13,009 ✭✭✭✭
So my neighbor comes over last night and tells me that he is having problems with extracting(bolt lifts but is hard to pull back)reloads from his Remington 700 BDL in 7MM. Factory ammo loads and extracts fine. Fired reloaded cases look good with no primer cratering, extractor marks, bulges etc. Measured fired reloaded cases with the fired factory ones and the numbers come out really close. Chambering an empty reload case is fairly easy though.
All of his reloads are F/L resized, once fired same manufacturer and chamber fine. Found out that his Dad loaded them and am not sure of the recipe though. Since the factory ammo functions fine this has to be a pressure problem right? Thanks Fellas.
Todd
All of his reloads are F/L resized, once fired same manufacturer and chamber fine. Found out that his Dad loaded them and am not sure of the recipe though. Since the factory ammo functions fine this has to be a pressure problem right? Thanks Fellas.
Todd
Comments
Primers don't always show high pressure, it could still be present. Was the brass shot in a different gun first? Was the FL die adjusted correctly? The bullets aren't seated into the rifling?
Take the bolt apart. Clean the threads on the cocking piece and the bolt body. Hose: out the bolt body and off the spring while you are there. Make a "L" tool so you can really clean the lug recesses in the receiver. Feel for burrs or setback.
So, if the handle is up all the way, the case is .100" out of the chamber, and will slide out easily.
I suspect that the primary extraction cam surface on the bolt handle or receiver is burred, galled, or dry.
AND, since factory stuff extracts easily, Then the loads could be too hot, either from overcharge, case necks too thick, bullets seated out too far, or whatever.
I've also seen rough bolt faces that grind off brass everytime the bolt is opened.
T67
This is why you don't shoot someone else's reloads. yeah, I'll shoot my dad's reloads too, but I know what load he uses for what gun.
Not as easy as it sounds. I've shot 700's for 40 years and have NEVER taken a bolt apart. Hose it with BrakeKleen, blow it out, and re-lube with one of the many thinner "all weather" lubes.
I wouldn't shoot any more of that ammo regardless of who loaded it.
"Take the bolt apart. Clean the threads on the cocking piece and the bolt body."
Not as easy as it sounds. I've shot 700's for 40 years and have NEVER taken a bolt apart.
I'm not sure what the clearance is on the newer 700 bolt sleeves, but on the older ones dismantling the bolt was quite simple and not particularly difficult. 1. remove bolt from gun. 2. Using the corner of a table/bench or whatever (provided you don't mind if it gets scratched) place the sear against the edge so that the forward portion of the bolt goes down. 3. Press the bolt down so that the firing pin is being pushed back. 4. when the rear portion of the firing pin clears the bolt sleeve slide a dime or other thin washer between the back of the firing pin and the bolt sleeve. 5. Turn the bolt sleeve counter clockwise to unscrew and when free, pull out of back of bolt. The firing pin and spring are now exposed for cleaning. If further disassembly is desired, compress the bolt sleeve and remove the dime- but be aware that there will be a lot of spring pressure on the bolt sleeve and it will be a real job to re-compress the spring to get things back together.
This gives a demonstration on disassembling a Remington 700 bolt.
Hope this helps.
Disassemble one or two of the reloads and weight the powder charge. Reduce them two grains and reassemble. See if the problem is solved. Usually the load is hot. Chronographs are a good check on pressure. If your handloads are going faster than factory back them off.
You need to stop shooting the reloads right now that someone else prepared. (while you still have your face and eyes)
This is why you should not shoot some one else's reloads. How do I now know this. I now always reload my own stuff.
Probably wrong powder type and/or measured amount.
Inspect case head of factory and reloads for marks/burnishing/etc.
Religiously stick to reloading manual recommended loads, not maximum loads.
"Take the bolt apart. Clean the threads on the cocking piece and the bolt body."
It's really very easy if you have a bolt disassembly tool from Remington. I bought one for my 700ML after I encountered problems from the dirty blowback from BP substitutes beginning to rust up the bolt. Years ago, an acquaintance at work and I were talking. He also had a 700ML and complained that he got to deer camp and loaded up a round inserted a cap or primer (I forget which one) and nothing. ruined his hunt. Asked if he ever cleaned the bolt he replied "Of course". I told him that it was likely rusted up. He said no way. I begged him to bring in the bolt. He resisted for several days and then brought in. He was shocked at the amount of rust. At home he cleaned the bolt thoroughly. I put it back together and told him to buy the tool. It also worked on my older (circa 1962-64) 700 center fire bolt. IMHO the tool is a must if you hunt with a CF or ML 700.