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loading the 357 sig

375H&H375H&H Member Posts: 1,544 ✭✭✭✭✭
Anyone here load for this round ?

Question #1 must the shoulder be set back on the case ,like you would for any other bottle neck case ?

Question #2 if they do , would you set up the die so it slightly
" cams " over , like you were full length resizing an 06 case or a 270 win ?.

any other advice or tips will be greatly appreciated .

loading 125gr bullets using unique powder for a glock 31

Thank ya kindly for any input !!!

Comments

  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Never loaded a 357 Sig, shot a few rounds, wasn't all that exciting.

    I don't think you can compress steel to any appreciable amount by camming over your press. I suspect that a proper full length die of the same make as the shell holder will do all that is required by just touching the two together. Your pistol will tell you what it likes best. After first firing I'd be unfirming the case length and champhering inside and out. I flash hole de-burr all my new brass.

    I read that the 5.7 x 28 really blows the shoulders forward. My Jet can get by neck sizing only with lighter loaded cast bullets - helps with the case life.
  • 62fuelie62fuelie Member Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have loaded for mine for about 20 years - Sig 226, 229, 239. The factory barrel is designed to headspace on the case mouth for some reason. I replaced all of my barrels with BarSto barrels which headspace on the shoulder datum line. Your Glock's probably headspace on the case mouth so your need to be careful of case length and you can't crimp the round. For a long time I loaded with old Blue Dot, but Alliant doesn't recommend using it any more due to sudden pressure spikes in the small case. I have been using 7 grains of Unique with the 125 grain Sierra JHP or the 125 grain Gold Dot made for the Sig and .38 Super +p. I don't know if the case will bulge at the head in the Glock like the .40 S&W does, but it something to watch for. One step I have found adds a great deal to the reliability of the reload is to remove the decapping spindle from my carbide .40 S&W die and run the finished load through this to uniform the head area. I carried the .357 Sig for duty for more than 10 years and still carry the 239 as my CCW pistol. I am well pleased with its power and accuracy.
  • Bottom GunBottom Gun Member Posts: 232 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have been using Hornady dies set so the sizing die touches the shell holder but no cam over.
    Bullet setback can be an issue due to the short neck so I do NOT flare the case mouth. I put a light camfer on the case mouth instead. I have never had a setback problem when I follow this procedure.
    I experienced some incomplete combustion when I loaded very light bullets (90 gr XTP) using a slow burning powder (AA9). I was able to resolve that issue by using a faster powder (Bullseye).
    The bonded Gold Dot and XTP bullets are the only bullets I've found that will stay together. I experienced jacket separation or bullet fragmentation with other brands such as Sierra 125 gr, Montana Gold 124 gr, Zero 115 gr, etc. They are quite accurate, but lacking in terminal performance.
    So far, my loads with a slow burning powder (AA9) appear to be slightly more accurate than my loads with a faster powder (Bullseye) in my Sig pistols but that could change with more experimentation.
    Mechanical engineers have their moments.
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