Frosted Bullets

victorj19

OK to use for plinking? 45 cal, 230 gr LRN?

charliemeyer007

Shot many thousands. Might not be match grade but for plinking I doubt you can tell any difference.

perry shooter

If these are cast bullets most likely lead pot turned up too hot They will be ok to shoot Just make sure you LUBE them well

victorj19

Thanks Guys

victorj19

quote:Originally posted by victorj19
Thanks Guys


Edit: It's been hard to control the temperature.

charliemeyer007

What are you melting with? Cadence is just as important as temp. I run 2 to 4 molds at a time. As one gets too hot, I cycle in a new one. Keeping the pot stirred/fluxed is important with alloy's.

noylj

Frosted bullets simply mean the temperature of the melt or mold was slightly too high, but they shoot very well as the lead flowed very well. You can go a little hotter and you'll get "whiskers" from the lead flow. Knock them off and you'll also have very accurate bullets. They may be brittle, but they are just find for target shooting.
In fact, as long as the base is completely filled out, the bullets will be accurate out to 100 yards.

From book "From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunnersc" by Glen E. Fryxell
Chapter 2: Casting 101
...Bullets that come from the mould wrinkled, not well filled out, are bright and shiny indicate either a too cool mould or alloy or both. When bullets become frosted and possibly eject stubbornly from the mould, the mould itself is too hot. Moulds that have small cavities and large blocks may need to be placed on a warm hot plate until they begin casting properly. You may need to do this occasionally throughout the casing session. Moulds with small blocks and large cavities may need to be set aside for brief periods to cool throughout the casting session. Advanced casters sometimes cast with two moulds alternating between the two to keep them at ideal operating temperatures. If the mould has a tendency to overheat, a fan can be located to blow on the mould while you are ejecting the bullets. NEVER, EVER, PUT YOUR MOULD IN WATER WHILE IT IS HOT! The mould will be warped beyond repair and steam and hot water may scald you.

Bullets with unfilled bases or air pockets may need a bigger sprue puddle. If the bullets are frosted, you will need to cool the mould slightly and turn down the temperature setting on your pot to about 50? - 100?. Bullets that show a cold mould condition will require the alloy temperature to be increased by 50? - 100? and more casting with the mould to bring it up to efficient operating temperature.

The following paragraphs are a brief summary of what we have covered in this chapter and can be used as a quick reference.

1. Safety is the primary concern when working with molten metal. A ventilated workplace is mandatory. Make sure the type of ventilation method you choose, pulls the harmful vapors and hot air AWAY from you. Always dress yourself in suitable protective clothing, such as closed top work boots, leather apron, gloves, and face protection before the alloy melts. NO WATER should be allowed anywhere near the casting area. Water coming in contact with molten lead will cause a violent explosion.

2. Pre-heat the mould on the large ledge at the top of the pot. Cast bullets for awhile to finish warming the mould.

3. Shiny, wrinkled bullets indicate a cold mould. Keep casting bullets until the mould is up to temperature and/or turn up the pot temperature 50? to 100?.

4. Frosted bullets indicate a too hot mould. Allow the mould to cool for awhile and/or decrease the pot temperature 50? - 100o?.

5. Wrinkled, poorly fill-out bullets coming from a hot mould indicate petroleum distillate in the mould or on the sprue plate. If the mould was thoroughly cleaned before casting was begun, the heat from the alloy should eventually remove the petroleum vapors with further casting. This will be obvious if the quality of the bullets improves with further casting.

6. An adequate flow of lead has to be maintained while the cavity is filling and to also fill the sprue countersink. Alloy has to be forced into all areas of the cavity to make a fully formed bullet. Head pressure in bottom pour pots can only be regulated by the level of the lead in the pot. The flow is regulated by the adjustment at the handle that limits the amount that the valve is opened. Too much head pressure accompanied by overheated alloy can actually force lead into the cavity with such force that it causes bullets to stick in the cavity and will also cause fins on the bullet where the lead has flowed out into the vent lines. Sticking bullets will require using the wooden rod that you use to open the sprue plate with, to whack the hinge area of the handles to jar the bullet loose from it's stuck position in the cavity. If the alloy is at normal casting temperature and the bullets are not filling out, try either increasing or decreasing the rate of flow at the nozzle. And record your settings for future set-ups.

7. If the sprue plate swings back over any part of a bullet's base, it will prevent that bullet from falling freely from the cavity.

8. Drop the bullets from the mould onto a soft towel-like surface to prevent damage to the still hot and somewhat soft bullets.

9. SAFETY FIRST!..."

243winxb

Frosted will be smaller in diameter as they drop from the mould, compared to nice shiny ones. About .0005" smaller. Different alloy, different results.