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reloading slugs

trukdrvrtrukdrvr Member Posts: 3 ✭✭
I would like to reload slugs. I have a lee 1 oz slug mold and was wondering if I can use the hulls from factory loads such as Remington or federal. all the info I found says win aa, or gun club, or sts.

Comments

  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm not sure. I try and stick to the loading data. I cast and shoot the Lyman 540gr sabot in silver AA with a red AA wad. I use the silver hulls so I know by looking its a slug. The red hulls are bird or buckshot which I mark the primer end with a fat sharpie marker 4B, OO or 2,4,6 or 7.5, slugs also get an S. Mine are all old hulls. Almost all my loads are 3.75 DE 1.25 oz.

    I ran into issues in the 20 gauge AA marked HS - not the same case as the old ones - different wad required.
  • trukdrvrtrukdrvr Member Posts: 3 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will stick with the data in the book. I was wondering if there was any difference between low brass and high brass hulls? Most of the factory slugs are high brass and all the data I see is for low brass. I think I will cut a few different hulls and try to see what the differences are.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good plan. My older Lyman shotgun loading manual has cut away pic of different hulls. IIRC the Winchester Upland was high base with the same construction as the low base AA. The difference was a 6 point crimp vs. the 8 point. In my Pacific press the only change needed was to switch the crimp starter to the proper one.

    For my Ithaca 37 I bought a MEC super sizer. The magazine tube is much tighter than my 870's and the reloads would stick in the mag throat without the hull being sized completely in the collet.
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The Lee 1 oz data that came with my mould worked fine.

    The listed loads may be reduced 10% from my old instructions.

    But a reduced load will need a longer wad, so the shell crimps well. I used different Winchester wads.

    Win12gawads1999.jpg
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    A more specific link would be useful.
  • geeguygeeguy Member Posts: 1,047
    edited November -1
    Truk:
    I've used all types of plastic hulls with the lee system, and they all worked fine. Key is to get the right wad so the end of the slug is very near the top of the wad, so that takes a little trial and error.

    Currently I use the 7/8 oz. slug with a 1 oz. claybuster wad and Federal hulls.

    Best of luck.
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Lee 12 ga. Key drive slug
    12 Ga 1 OZ Lee Key Drive Slug in 2 3/4" Win AA hull
    Data 1999 Each- Case $.070 Slug $.064 Primer $.02438 Powder HS-6 $.0846 Wad $.019 Total for 1 round- $.26198 Or 26 cents. Add the cost of the mould. Plumbers lead was $1lb. Accuracy @ 100yds 7" average. Gun- Mossberg 500 cantilever rifled , scope on 7 power. Lee load data used.Powder HS-6 36gr. Win AA 2 3/4" Win 209 primer. Win. Wad 12f114 No wad pressure when seating. Slug 1 OZ weight 423gr. More load data is available on Lee's website. I had tried other wads/loading, this was the best of 3. One thing i noticed, the reloaded hulls were more accurate after fire formed to the chamber. The average groups would have been better if not for a flyer (not me) ever now and then when the wad would rip. The wad may no longer be available?? [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Reduced light load with Lee 1 oz Key Drive Slug
    If you make a few adjustments to this Lee load, it just might be what your looking for. Federal Gold Medal case, Fed 209A primer,Fed12S3 wads, Hodgdon Universal powder, 28.0 gr., Lee 1 oz slug, 1450 fps. Now for the changes. To get a proper crimp when lowering the powder charge, you will need a different wad, its would be Fed 12S0 wad. http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Brow...ed+search.y=12 Now you will need to reduce the powder charge 10% as per Lee instructions. And i see no reason why you can't lower the powder charge more to get the light load you want. As long as the crimp is good, you might be able to reduce the TOTAL powder charge as much as 20%. Just a guess on my part. I picked this powder because it takes up a lot of room in the case and is faster burning then the other loads Lee has listed. Lee Load data is here> PDF file > http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data...uct/SM3529.pdf "USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK" "IT HAS NOT BEEN TESTED" good luck.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Dangers of Reduced Loads
    Its best to always follow a given Recipe/Load Data. When you start playing with the powder charge strange things can happen. If recoil is light, or the report "sounded funny" or for any reason things didnt seem right, ALWAY CHECK THE BARREL BEFORE FIRING ANOTHER SHOT, use a cleaning rod to make sure no wad is stuck in the barrel. Be Safe, good Luck.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 258 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
    A more specific link would be useful.
    Googled it for you. [:)] Old, so links dont work.
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
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