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JustC: Heard you've got a neat annealing tool

nononsense told me that you have designed/built one. Would you share it again? I understand you've got pics, too! I'm pretty sure I'm going to be needing one soon.

Thanks, in advance! Scott [:D]

Comments

  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,055 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Scott, here she is. A peice of a counter top, some scrap 2x4's, a dimmer switch, a few feet or romex and a plug, along with a bathroom fan motor, and voila.[;)]

    This is the fan motor mounted underneath with the shaft running up through the platform. The shaft was threaded at the machine shop.
    101_0829.jpg

    Here are the 3 bushings I had cut and threaded for it (222/223 boltface) (308 boltface) (magnum boltface) Cut and threaded at the shop out of some billet aluminum as a heat sink.
    101_0828.jpg

    And the view from the front where I mounted the dimmer switch to slow the RPM's to a working speed.
    101_0826.jpg

    A few hours and a few buchs at the machine shop (which you could save with a drill press or good end mill, or better yet, a small lathe) and you are ready to anneal. I bought the suggested torch kit in the article on 6br.com and have been happy thus far.

    Here are some starters (learning curve) cases. Most replies I get say somewhere around between 3 and 5. 5 seems to be a bit too much heat. #4 looks like lapua brass NIB[:D] maybe I am smart enough to do this annealing stuff[^]

    101_0823.jpg
  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427
    edited November -1
    quote:maybe I am smart enough to do this annealing stuff[^]



    I thought I might be...until I started reading up on it[^] I'm afraid I would screw it up somehow and blow myself up[B)] Good luck! Keep us posted on how it's working out for you.[8D]
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,055 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Eric, unless you run the heat all the way down to the case-head or too far down the body (which you should be able to see clearly) you should be fine. As long as you don't anneal the whole case it should be a case or trial and error for time under flame[;)]
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,815
    edited November -1
    Eric
    One of the reasons the "old timmers" (poster included) hold the case head in our fingers is that it prevents overheating the case head (you will automaticly drop it, before it gets to hot).

    I sit with a bucket of brass to my right, a bucket of water between my knees and a propane torch in my left hand. Take a case with your right hand, spin the neck in the flame until you see the color change and drop it into the water (it takes about as long to read that as it does to do it).
  • dclocodcloco Member Posts: 2,967
    edited November -1
    Might be a way to cut down on machine shop expense....

    Check this part number at midway.... 360-902

    These are the shell holders from Hornady.... $35.99. Has small, medium, and large sizes.
  • gclmemgclmem Member Posts: 346 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I found this guy with a google search.

    http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm

    More than enough to know about annealing.

    http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm#Anneal
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