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reloading the .223

PSFD DONKEYPSFD DONKEY Member Posts: 771 ✭✭✭✭
Been working up a load for my 223, I'm using Hornady 50 gr SPSX, I'm up to 24.6 gr of IMR 3031 powder and the case is full, max is 25.7
I've checked 2 differant manuals, weighed the powder charge on 2 differant scales. Is this normal, how do you get a near max load, or am I just overlooking something.

Comments

  • PSFD DONKEYPSFD DONKEY Member Posts: 771 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    At this point and time I do not reload my .223 brass but I do save it. Does the cost of buying a reloading set-up with all the needed goodies out weigh the cost of buying ammo buy the case? I am buying PMC 55gr for 99.00 per 1000.

    Please DO NOT turn this into a Wolf VS XXX brand bashing thread.
    Thanks for the info

    JBoss......Fear No Fish/peace through superior firepower/The gun manufacturers are not making a dangerous product.
    Bad parents are.
  • PSFD DONKEYPSFD DONKEY Member Posts: 771 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am loading the 223 with 55 gr FMJBT with crimpfor my other AR's with 1/9 twist. I have had some real good results but does anyone else load for .223 and what powder (grains) and primers are you using. I have a Colt Match 1 and 7 and I load 62 grain for best results and it is more expensive. I also was wondering about shooting out to 500 yards what is the best loads for both 1/7 and 1/9 twist. One barrel is 20 inches, other is 16 and the other is a 1/9 twist bull barrel 20 inches. Any help is appreciated.
  • PearywPearyw Member Posts: 3,699
    edited November -1
    There are a couple of things you can do. Try different brass as different brands with have slightly different capacities. It is going to be a compressed load, so use a long drop tube which will help compress the powder.
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    what was the brass used in the load manual? also, was it a match barrel or factory barrel? This is all on the first page.

    if you are full in your case, and you have no pressure signs, then use the aforementioned longer drop tube. This is all taking into consideration that you have chrono'd the loads and have found them to be within book velocities (barrel lenght taken into account of course). If you have exceeded the book loads and are only picking up slight velocity increases per charge, or have gone way over book MV's, then your brass and chamber have already taken the amount of powder they will allow for safe operation. In that case,..you back dwon to your last harmonic point ( accuracy load) and stick with that.

    Is your powder at full case burning cleanly or does it foul quickly? If there is a lot of powder left as carbon on the barrel bore and muzzle?,if so then you either need more neck tension and/or more powder. (this is assuming the powder is a very slow powder for thie chambering).

    Be very careful to look for pressure sings,..they show up quick in the smaller calibers.
  • PSFD DONKEYPSFD DONKEY Member Posts: 771 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the great info, that's why I love this place.
    I did chrono the loads and everything is in check.
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