Brass sticking in chamber.

7mmbr

I have recently begun to experience a problem. I am beginning to have brass stick in the chamber of my single shot .308 pistol and cannot figure out why? I suspected pressures. Tried factory, both top of the line and then some "Mart" cheapies, same thing. I cleaned it REAL good with Bore-Scrubber and a bronze brush. No different. Would extract every 5th-6th one, rest with screwdriver. Tried Choke and Carb cleaner and brush, have not shot it yet. Any recommendations?

will270win

What type of firearm is it? Maybe the extractor could use some work or the chamber could use a polishing.

JustC

mount a 12ga bore mop to a drill, coat liberally with Flitz metal polish, and run it for a few minutes in the chamber. Recoat and repeat a few times until the case extracts smoothly.

7mmbr

The pistol is a Magnum Research Industries, Lone Eagle. It has a rotary cannon breach and I am afraid of any gritty polish substances may migrate into the action and cause who knows what!!!! The idea with the Flitz sounds good, but would it/ could it not cause possible problems with the chamber throat?

JustC

after polishing ANY firearm barrel or chamber, you flush with something from breech toward the muzzle. I use non-chlorinated break cleaner. Then lube any moving parts, but NOT the chamber.

Oregunner

quote:Originally posted by 7mmbr
I have recently begun to experience a problem. I am beginning to have brass stick in the chamber of my single shot .308 pistol and cannot figure out why? I suspected pressures. Tried factory, both top of the line and then some "Mart" cheapies, same thing. I cleaned it REAL good with Bore-Scrubber and a bronze brush. No different. Would extract every 5th-6th one, rest with screwdriver. Tried Choke and Carb cleaner and brush, have not shot it yet. Any recommendations?


How many times did you shoot it before the sticking problem started? If it started out ok something must have changed somewhere along the line. What do the primers look like? Have you measured a case before & after firing?
Is it under warrantee?

7mmbr

It did it once in a blue moon in the beginning when I first bought it. I thought it was because of left over lube on the case. Began wiping cases with paint thinner before loading. Now all of a sudden, they are sticking almost every round. I took a drill with a stainless brush and ran it for a minute, then tried some cases I shot today that stuck and they stuck again as well. I have loaded some new rounds and am going to try to shoot tommorrow and see what happens after the drill deal with these rounds. The loads are well within specs and the primers are not cratered. No the pistol is not warranteed any more. The company stopped producing these a few years ago and this is it.

perry shooter

Hello IMHO I would not ever run a stainless brush in a drill the last thing you want is scratches in a chamber going round in a circle. This could/would make matters worst. I would if anything use a pistol rod with a snug fitting patch for the chamber use JB BORE cleaner and just use a short in and out stroke in the chamber area only I also dont think paint cleaner on the case is the right way to go . You don't want bunches of oil or grease on a case but a slight amount wiped off with a rag would not hurt anything.

JustC

stainless brushes will farg-up an action or barrel. Try a polishing compound on a bore mop. I would bet that if there was a chamber issue, the stainless brush made it worse. Polish it with a polishing compound.

are there scratches anywhere on the extracted case bodies??? if so, then the chamber has a tight spot or rough spot that needs polishing.

as long as your loads are NOT max or close to max,..it has to be a barrel issue and not a pressure issue. That is assuming the cases are from this same rifle.

also,..are you bulging the shoulders a bit when sizing?? if you bulge the case a tad,.you can have sticky extraction.

measure the shoulder/body junction on a fired case vs a sized case. If the sized case grows that dimension,..you need to back the die off a bit.

7mmbr

I have several things to clarify before I go any further.

I used the paint thinner after resizing to remove any excess lube, and I barely rolled the case neck and shoulder to the pad for minimal amount of lube on the neck and used a brush inside the neck

I only used the S/S brush inside the chamber area for only a few seconds for I knew that it could scratch the area and make things worse.

It happened with factory loads, Winchester Supreme, Nickel Cases stuck as well. All of my cases are shot in the same weapon for it is the only .308 I own. All of my brass are once fired, I get them from work.

The loads are not to MAX but are close, within 1/2-1 grn. I stop the resize about .150-.200" from the top of the shoulder to keep from bulging the case shoulder area. I never measured the before and after cases, never thought of it. I guess I will have to find some Flitz ot JB Bore Scrubber and go from there. Thanks. Let you know back.

One shot

The stainless brush is a no-no no matter the leangth of time. Use the Flitz metal polish. I use Flitz in the past with great results on minor chamber problems. Use the .12 Ga. bore mop for this process and you may be surprised by the results. Good luck.

7mmbr

Hey Perry Shooter, not trying to sound stupid or anything, what does "IMHO"stand for? I saw it recently used here in GB and am not sure of what it stands for. Thanks for clearing the fog!

dcloco

IMHO= in my humble opinion

What does the brass look like after you fired it? Need to do a complete & critical inspection of the brass.

Any way to post pictures of reloaded rounds and brass that has been fired from your chamber?

gunnut505

So, you get once fired cases from your work? Were they ever fired in a fully-automatic gun?
Get yourself a good caliper and check 'em BEFORE you reload.
Also; it's JB Bore Paste, not bore scrubber.
Do you trim your brass? Do you use a chamfering tool? Start both.

mbsams

What am I missing? For a failure to extract - look to a faulty extractor - why all the focus on the chamber?

7mmbr

First things first;

I fixed my problem!!! YEAH!! I used JB Bore Paste and all of the problem gremlins have ran away!!! I did as you guys said and it worked great!! I fired 75 rnds the other day at work out it w/o a hitch. I tried my personal accuracy rounds and then some from work and EVERY one flew out like a champ!!! We use Hornady TAP, Rem. and Win. 168 Match at work and have never fired any in a F/A weapon.

I inspect each and every case before loading, cracks, dents etc..

I case trim when they are within .005" of MAX length and use a chamfer tool inside and out after.

The extractor works fine. It will throw a case 5-6 feet when it is not bound up.

The cases before firing are as follows at neck, .338", .448" at shoulder.

After firing they are .345" and shoulder .453".
Thanks for all of the help guys. This pistol is leaving this Saturday for Tx. on a hog and Auodad hunt my wife bought for each of us and I will get to use it instead of my 7mmBR (Which I am taking along for some 'Yote fun as well) I will use my 7mmBR also, but was really wanting to use the .308 primarly.
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Seen the least, feared the most!!