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How do you test a new reload?
Reddot47
Member Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭✭✭
I just started reloading. I shoot a Keltec Sub2000 9mm in IPSC style competitions, so my distances are 25 yards at the most.
When you go out to the range to test a new load do you shoot at a target from a bench rest or do you shoot the target offhand to more accurately simulate the conditions you are going to shoot in?
I loaded some 124 gr Speer JHP using 4.1 gr Titegroup. The brass I used was mixed 1x fired. I made sure that the OAL was dead on and that the crimp dimension was accurate. When compared to the Winchester 115 factory the felt recoil seemed less, and the group was about 2" while the factory all touched. Do I keep everything the same and just increase the powder withing Titegroups specs, or what?
When you go out to the range to test a new load do you shoot at a target from a bench rest or do you shoot the target offhand to more accurately simulate the conditions you are going to shoot in?
I loaded some 124 gr Speer JHP using 4.1 gr Titegroup. The brass I used was mixed 1x fired. I made sure that the OAL was dead on and that the crimp dimension was accurate. When compared to the Winchester 115 factory the felt recoil seemed less, and the group was about 2" while the factory all touched. Do I keep everything the same and just increase the powder withing Titegroups specs, or what?
Comments
I always use a good manual to find a load with similar characteristics to the one I'd like to make ie; bullet weight, velocity, bullet type, etc.
I then work up loads for the gun I'm using for that particular application.
Once I've decided to load a few, I start by reducing the printed load maximum by at least 6%, and sometimes 10% depending on the powder/primer combination.
Once I've made a couple dozen rounds, I open the kitchen window and fire them across the screens of my chronograph (easily obtainable, easy to use, and under $100) to see if they are in the neighborhood (pun intended) of the velocity I seek.
If that goes OK, I then load a few more with 0.1 grain steps, slowly increasing the charge weight until I reach the published max load.
I then fire those at the range to see their accuracy potential, and to check their velocities.
Many times, I have tossed out loads ABOVE the preferred load to keep others from firing them; sometimes, I get to the max and still don't have what I want. That's when you switch components to reach the ideal load.
I usually fire for accuracy after I've worked up a good load; if it isn't hitting where I want, I switch loads.
Once I've made a couple dozen rounds, I open the kitchen window and fire them across the screens of my chronograph (easily obtainable, easy to use, and under $100) to see if they are in the neighborhood (pun intended) of the velocity I seek.
Pardon me while I take a moment to dream a pleasant dream of living where I could do that. I mean, my living room looks out over a city park, but the local constabulary takes a dim view of me testing my pet loads there. Thanks for the diversion. Now back to our program.
The biggest problem I see as far as your accuracy goes is the mixed brass. In 9x19 you hafta sort your brass, the case cap is incredibly low, and there are serious variations from one MFG to another as far as case design goes.
In an IPSC match, don't worry about shorting your brass. like you said, the range is usually soi short, you don't need to worry about it
quote:Originally posted by richbug
The biggest problem I see as far as your accuracy goes is the mixed brass. In 9x19 you hafta sort your brass, the case cap is incredibly low, and there are serious variations from one MFG to another as far as case design goes.
In an IPSC match, don't worry about shorting your brass. like you said, the range is usually soi short, you don't need to worry about it
If you don't even make minor power factor due to the unknown brass, you won't get a score. Minor for a rifle is 160 last I checked, his load might make 130 out of a carbine.