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Moly Coated Bullets
dustyhol
Member Posts: 282 ✭✭✭
I just picked up some of the moly coated bullets from bear creek supply and am getting ready to start working up some loads for 9mm and 45. I haven't loaded moly before and can't find any manuals that have moly bullets listed. So here is my question:
Do I use the reloading data from a comparable lead bullet or a jacketed bullet to develop a load for moly coated bullets?
Thanks!
Do I use the reloading data from a comparable lead bullet or a jacketed bullet to develop a load for moly coated bullets?
Thanks!
Comments
If lead, use lead data, if jacketed use jacketed data. If they are molly-ed copper plated lead than use lead data.
Expect slightly lower velocities, and pressures, with the moly coating vs a plain bullet of the same make/weight of slug.
There is some empirical evidence that deposits left in the barrel, then 'plated' over by moly will destroy your barrel in short order by allowing rust to form under the deposit.
Use a combination of Sweet's 7.62 and Hoppes to clean that barrel. Spray a brake cleaner or alchol BETWEEN the applications of Hoppes and Sweets..you don't want interactions between the two.
Remember...it takes much more then a pass or two with a brush to get a barrel clean.
I like moly...and in most of my using guns I utilize them.
This is one of those either/or topics without many people on the fence. Usually they either hate it or they love it. After speaking with a couple of engineers at Norma who suggested using it, I worked with it for quite a period of time and found that I didn't need the properties of Moly in order to shoot more or get better accuracy so I don't use it. I think it's a nuisance but that's my opinion and Your Milage May Vary...
Here are a couple of things to remember when using Moly:
DO NOT use Moly or lead bullets in pistol barrels with Polygonal rifling. This is a generic warning but Glock speaks very strongly on this subject.
Clean (strip) you barrels thoroughly before attempting to use Moly coated bullets.
After stripping the inside of the barrel, apply a Moly Conditioner per the manufacturer's instructions.
If you strip the barrel again for cleaning, the barrel will have to conditioned again.
Moly barrels require shooting a number of bullets in order to settle in and establish some consistancy.
Be aware of the area just in front of your chamber throat where a ring of carbon and Moly can build up causing an increase in pressure.
While some advocate the use of Moly, I don't. It's more of a nuisance to me with little benefit and if I don't get a few more bullets down the bore than someone that shoots Moly, I don't care. A properly lapped, high quality barrel will clean up quickly as long as its not abused.
YMMV of course and some will disagree.
Working up loads for Moly bullets is just like starting over working up new loads for a rifle or pistol. Moly does lower the initial pressure by reducing some of the friction when the barrel is prepped correctly. But that is not Carte Blanche to start at the high loads and go up from there. Common sense dictates that you start at the low end and work up just in case...
Good Luck with your loads!
Best.
On a different note, some claim that the moly coating cuts down on leading and smoke. While I haven't shot them enough to come to a conclusion on the leading part, the part about smoke is a load of crap. I've notice no difference in the amount of smoke between shooting regular lead and moly-coated lead rounds. It's still enough smoke that in some of the indoor ranges I shoot IPSC in, it can be hard to see through it if I'm firing several rounds from one position.
before firing moly coats, though. So y'all wish me luck on that.
By the way, what are you stripping the bbl with? Ammonia-based solvent? Or something more specific?
Montana X Treme Moly Remover - MTX5
FASTEXr
Fastex Moly Remover
Best.
Use Sweet's 7.62 and Hoppes..alternating, with lots of brush action. Spray brake cleaner or alcohol between aplications..you don't want interaction between chemicals.
There is some newer stuff on the market that works well on guilding metal...some of these guys may have tried it.
The reason for alternating is because Hoppes gets the fouling...but not too good the bullet jacket material.
Clean that barrel till patches come out CLEAN...any residue on a patch means there is still 'stuff' in that bore.
JB Bore Paste also is wonderful stuff for smoothing up a bore...and getting the last bit of copper out.
I scrubbed the hoot out of the bbl with what solvent I had on hand (Hoppe's copper solvent), then cleaned with brake cleaner and a brass brush. I then hit her with the old-school bore cloth. Not a hint of pitting. And with the right mirror, you could brush your teeth in that bore.