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new to reloading questions
mauidiver
Member Posts: 30 ✭✭
I am brand new to reloading. Just started my bench and got a dumb question. I am looking through my Lyman book at the powder amounts. I am going to be loading 223. The larger the grain bullet the longer correct? The longer the bullet , the more contact with the case correct? If those are correct i would assume that the heavier the bullet and the more contact with the case the more powder would be required to propel it. But when I look at 55 grain using Varget it uses 25 grain ( min load ) and the 69 gain uses 23.4 grains. Why less for a heavier bullet that contacts the casing more?
Another question is does it matter as far as powder loading what brand bullet you use or do you go solely by then weight of the bullet. I understand that different bullets perform different but my main concern is blowing something up in the rifle.
Another question is does it matter as far as powder loading what brand bullet you use or do you go solely by then weight of the bullet. I understand that different bullets perform different but my main concern is blowing something up in the rifle.
Comments
I know I still need a tumbler and cleaning medium to prepare the cases. The dies are carbide and it says they require no lubrication; Does this mean I don't have to lube the cases?
A friend suggested a tray to hold the shells; Can I use the trays the shells come with new from the factory? I've been saving my spent shells for awhile now.
Any other suggestions?[?]
Weclome to the forums! And welcome to reloading. I'll shorten this to say pretty much +1 on what Pearyw said about case lube.
I will add though the reason for the loading trays is so there is some room around the cases to get your fingers in and out without knocking other cases around. Some trays that bullets come in can hold the cases either way...but I can't do any finesse work in them. The loading trays for 6 or so bucks take a lot of hassle away.
I also use an RCBS pocket cleaner for the primer pockets. Something I do with .40's but haven't found it necessary with my .45's is to final factory size the cases. According to some the .40 case is unsupported during firing. I think it's as supported as my .45 but the final resizing has eliminated jams. So now I do it with my .45 too, FWIW.
If you ever have questions about reloading do come back for advice. there is a plethora of information here and a lot of helpful people to go along with it. -good luck
I loaded a lot of ammunition before I bought a tumbler. Just wipe off the cases and run them through the process.
A cartridge block is only a few bucks from Midway and is much better than the ammo box insert. Loading single stage it is best to get 50 cases sized, primed, flared, and with powder charge rowed up in that block. Then go down each row under a strong light or flashlight and be sure each one contains one and only one powder charge before seating bullets. No powder and double powder are Bad Things but they are obvious in the block check.
some folks also wear ear protection when reloading,'just in case.'
How are you going to prime them? with the Lee RamPrime? it will get the job done but a handheld unit will save a lot of time on that operation.
Might I suggest you buy and use up a jug of Trail Boxx powder while learing? it's real fluffy and it's 'almost' impossible to double charge a case with it.
almost.
It's a bit more expensive than most others but the safety factor usre is nice,and it works well in my reloads.
Keep asking quetions,we all were new at it once.
and we all are still learning.
Hand wiping cases works...as long as you are ;oading only a few rounds at a time. Gets old in a hurry, tho.
Get loading manuals..several is better. Actually read them.
One high primer on a magnum revolver or a semi auto will ruin your day.
Chuck a primer pocket cleaning tool in a drill and go, go, go!
Primer pocket cleaners can be easly made from a screwdriver
You can remove the barrel from your pistol, and use the chamber for a case check gauge (drop in a factory load and see how far in it sits, your reloads should go in the same distance, and fall back out, using nothing more than gravity)
A mix of 4 parts hot water and 1 part vinagar can be used to clean your brass, soak for 10 minutes, stirring occasionaly, followed by a hot water rinse. Allow to dry completly before reloading.
Whild carbide sizing dies don't require lube, they will run smother with a little bit on the brass. I like Hornady "Unique" case lube, my buddy prefers Imperial "sizing die wax". In both cases, simply having just enough lube to put a sheen on your finger tips will provide all the lube you need for a sizing session (a $4 tub of either will last you 20+ years, which makes them a good buy)