Trigger control

wynn24

Maybe I am getting really picky but cant acheive the accuracy that some guys can. I have shot .312 groups with my .308 and i have shot .400 groups with my .22-250. These were shot at 100 meters. But i cannot acheive the .2's. I am wondering about my trigger pull. If there are any trained shooters out there i would love to here some advise on which part of the finger you use to pull the trigger. Maybe i should spend more time dryfiring with my technique. My load development might need some tweaking on my .22-250, but i have great confidence in my .308 load.Anyway any help, support, advice would be appreciated. Thanks Ryan

sandwarrior

wynn24,

Assuming you have a true benchrest quality rifle...

What is your trigger adjusted to? How is it adjusted? Has it been taken apart and honed? I'd look at these before you look at you.

Next I'd look at parallax in your scope as a factor. That is frequently the cause of minute differences in shot placement. Get that worked out.

Finally, the trigger finger should be placed on the trigger where you can feel it the best. Be that more towards the tip or your first knuckle. It should be on your fingertip. But it should be placed where it has to take some force to pull a 8oz or less trigger. Not so much force that it makes you shake though. Find that balance between leverage and force that helps you feel the trigger best.

And, no, I don't think you are gettng picky. It's just that there is a myriad of things to do to get super accuracy below the .2's

-hope that helps

dcloco

What is the trigger pull? Creep? Takeup? Over travel?

May want to try one of these - www.ezpulltriggerassist.com

I have one on the way....this will be used to work up loads and help to eliminate some of me.

I only shoot paper and prairie dogs...so this should work fine for me.

RCrosby

See if you can find a copy of Warren Page's "The Accurate Rifle".
Excellent book that covers equipment, bench techniques, etc.
Good luck.

bpost

You are shooting fine groups with your rifles! It takes the extra thousand dollars to get into the 2's. For us average shooters not having 5 grand in a rifle your groups would make me proud.

Shooting a coyote in the chest offhand at 220 yards does not require a .2's RIFLE it requires a RIFLEMAN. I am proud to be a RIFLEMAN. I hope you are too.

Highball

Bpost has nailed it.

The step from 1 inch to half inch groups is fairly easy.

1/4 inch groups require a factor of perhaps 5 times the effort...and ability/practice.
Under 1/4 inch..consistently..requires many bucks, calm winds, and dedicated practice/dry-firing.

JustC

I think everything that can be said, has been said. if you have a factory rifle, or even a rebarreled fcatory action shooting .3's and .4's,..CONSISTENTLY,...and not just "the best group it ever shot", you are getting about all you can from it.

Now,..if you have it mounted in a flat bottom BR stock, with a jewell trigger, glued in with a solid bottom (40X action) or BR follower and no magazine inletting, a great scope, a great load, and have your act together, you can bring your agg down to the .250" and less number,...BUT only with a LOT of time shooting, and the use of wind flags and learning to read mirage, as well as perfecting a bench technique etc etc etc. To be a consistent shooter in the .2's and more importantly the .1's, you will be in the sport pretty deep with a lot of cash and even more time wrapped up in it.

I would find a rifle that shoots in the .3's to be a great rifle for anything but point blank benchrest competition.

wynn24

Thanks to everyone who replied with their thoughts and comments. Maybe i have already acheived top accuracy with my setups. I have not spent thousands of dollars on my rifles, nor my scopes. But i have spent many hours shooting and reloading for them. My log book is full of loads and seating depths. I know i can acheive better groups with my .22-250, but maybe the .308 has seen its smallest groups. Again thanks. Ryan

juddroy

I really try to focus on doing the exact same thing every time.Is your cheek weld exactly the same every time, your grip,your shoulder pressure,placement of the stock on the rest,the way you hold your tounge,and wrinkle your lip :-)