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Torque on rings and bases.
konamtbiker
Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
I have always heard that the proper torque for both rings and bases is 65 inch pounds. I just watched a video on scope mounting by MidwayUSA. They said that ring bases sould be torqued to 30 inch pounds and rings to 20 inch pounds. That is quite a difference. So I ask all of you. What do you recommend? Does it vary on types of bases and rings? Does it vary on ammount of recoil, such as 243 to 338 RUM? Thanks for the input in advance.
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quote: I have always heard that the proper torque for both rings and bases is 65 inch pounds.
I'm not sure where you heard this but it sounds like there might be some confusion between how much to tighten action screws and then how much to tighten scope screws.
The generally suggested level for action screws has been suggested to be in the area of 65 in/lbs. but even that is subjective and dependent on how the action is bedded in the first place.
The most important factor with scope rings is how cylindristic (round) and concentric they are which determines how much surface area is in contact with the scope body. The more round and concentric the 'grip' is, the less actual torque is takes to hold the scope in place. I don't measure scope ring screws or base screws with a torque wrench since I have my own method but the 20-30 in/lbs. sounds more reasonable than the 65 in/lbs.
Take a look at the Burris Signature rings that use the inserts instead of bare metal contact from the rings themselves.
Best.
I am inclined to go more towards the 20-30 in/lbs of tq too. 65 in/lb is pretty near max for a little 6-32NC. It's also a tremendous amount of pressure on a scope tube if it isn't perfectly set(lapped into) the rings. The Burris inserts(Signature rings) are good way to relieve that pressure. This is a classic thing I have seen quite often. Someone wants to save ten bucks on a set of rings and then when they pull the scope off that rifle they go OMG! How did that dent/scratch get there.
As far as the recoil knocking it loose, I like to use the proper amount of locktite. This does two things. One, it gives wet(lubed) torque when tightening, thereby protecting the threads. Two, when it has cured it ain't going anywhere. It takes a lot more torque to take the screws out than they are actually holding.
Something I see quite often in the mechanic world is everyone likes to go to max torque on fasteners. Just remember the less torque on a screw the less strain it is under. The rings hold the scope by friction. And it takes a lot less friction to hold a scope than one would think. Think about when you start to mount a scope and you are torquing down the ring screws and as you even get close to tight on one ring...that scope won't turn in the ring anymore. It doesn't take a whole lot more friction to hold that scope securely through thick and thin. -hope this opinion is of value to you.