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Not New to Reloading

codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
edited April 2007 in Perry Shooter Competition Shooting and Reloading Forum
Because I haven't even started yet. Been on GB for quite a while and have come to respect the expertise here. So here goes-

Bought a .50 BMG-gonna need to feed that bad boy. Also shoot alot of 30-06, .308 (7.62x51) .40S&W, 7mm mag.
Have someone who may giveaway a Lee Pro 1000. If I end up with it....(I know it won't do the .50's)

Is it a good one to start with? If not, which would be? I'd like to get in as inexpensively as possible so I don't go whole hog and find out I either hate it or have no talent for it.

What caliber would be best to learn on? I'm thinking .50 BMG should not be my starter round. 30-06?

A manual is an absolute must,I understand. Which would be a good all-around manual to have? Do I need the newest one?


How 'bout the grocery list of tooling, machinery (tumblers, scales, etc) that will be needed-I'm pretty sure I got a handle on supplies (brass, bullets, powder, media) that I'll need.

I know its alot. But what the hey-this is GB!
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Comments

  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try the 308 or 06' first, the load data is plentiful. The 308 with varget, RL15, N140, or H4895 will yield accuracy quickly in the 165-168gr pills.

    manual,..I like Nosler because it gives an accuracy load for each powder used.

    dies,....try the new hornady CGND dies or Redding.

    Some tools,..
    chamforing/deburring tool
    case trimmer
    lee hand primer & shell holder set
    flash hole deburring tool
    sinclair OAL tool
    sinclair comparator
    I like a digital scale
    hand trickler
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  • SW 357MagSW 357Mag Member Posts: 1,960 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've got the LEE Anniversary kit. It comes with a lot of what you need and is definately bargain priced. I load up to .30/06 on it with no problems. Biggest cartridge I load for. 50 Cal obviously can't be loaded with it.

    This kit comes with a good scale, but if you like reloading you will most likely want to upgrade. It comes with a powder measure also. Includes a priming tool and several other useful tools.

    You'll need dies. I, as well as MANY reloaders, use the LEE Pacesetter dies. These dies will last you forever. They come with the factory crimp die.

    To trim your cases, the LEE kit comes with a cutter and lock stud. You just need a guage for each cartridge you want.

    For a tumbler, I recommend Frankford arsenal. A great tumbler and is definately good value for the money. No need to buy a more expensive one. I wouldn't buy a tumbler until I found out whether I like loading or not.

    A good manual is the Lyman 48th Edition. ABC's of Reloading is also a great manual.

    Here are links for the items I mentioned:

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=149097 - LEE KIT

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=520790 - PACESETTER DIES

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=699780 - GUAGES You need one of these for each cartridge to trim cases.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=587176&utm_source=587176&utm_medium=homepage42 - TUMBLER

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=823498 - LYMAN MANUAL

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=738288 - ABC's MANUAL



    HOPE I'VE BEEN SOME HELP! Don't be afraid of Lee's low priced stuff. It's good quality and is perfect for a beginner.
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  • CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Another vote for the anniversary kit...$70 and has everything sans the componets and dies to start reloading.

    Lee also makes an open face press that will handle the 50's.

    Everything else has pretty much been covered.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    I guess if I don't get the Pro 1000 then I may consider the Anniversary Kit.

    I think I like the idea of the Nosler manual-due to the accuracy load data available. (Thanks C)That will come I guess-after they all go bang-all the time.

    I am already planning on the open face Lee kit for .50BMG regardless of where I end up.

    Thanks for all the links 357-big help. Already bought the ABC's book. Best to start crawling first.Right?

    As far as dies-do all of the brands use the same thread? IOW-are they interchangeable from brand to brand?

    How about my bench? How big? Best surface/conditions( i.e smooth, wood, metal, etc.)?
    Do you find it best to stand or sit, if sitting-how high (bar stool?)
    How about lighting? Task lighting, or flourescent?

    Thanks for all the help so far. I know I'm being a PITA-but what are friends for?
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    The Pro 1000 would be great for the .40 but I only use mine for pistols, as it isn't as strong as a single stage and opens up the possibility of charging a case still full of wet sizing lube and ruining a whole batch. In otherwords, I use mine with any case that has carbide dies and doesn't require lubrication. Otherwise I go with the single stage. Just my preference mind you.

    When I think of how puzzled I was when I started with a single stage, the idea of STARTING with a progressive gives me the willies. I have a Lee Pro 1000 myself and it is a rather cantankerous beast. Once you get going it works very well but it isn't the most user freindly machine.

    The Lee anniversary is a good choice, as is the Lee Classic Cast or classic cast turret as a nice inbetween between fully progressive and single stage.
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  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    your bench should be built 50% larger than you think it should. You never have enough room it seems. I wouldn't use metal just because of possible static charges when dealing with live primers. No carpet if possible to help with static also. Try 2 sheets thick of 3/4" plywood as the top, or an old counter top which is what I used.

    I sit in a desk chair for doing primer pockets, flash holes etc, with a small trashcan between my legs to catch the shavings. I also sit for sizing and seating operations but stand to use the brass trimmer (powered unit). Just be sure to lay things out so that the bench is workable for each operation, without one tool interfering with another process. And get 50% more storage room that you think you need.

    101_1216-1.jpg

    101_1220.jpg
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  • buddybbuddyb Member Posts: 5,368 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't have a 50 BMG rifle but looking at the price of components and the powder charge they take would it not be better or at least cheaper to buy surplus ammo?
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    milsurp goes about 2-3 a pop delivered. I figure-in time I can load for less and end up with a better product. More questions on the way...
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    jonk-if the possibility of getting one for free wasn't the case I probably wouldn't be thinking of a progressive either.

    How difficult is it to change set-ups for different calibers?

    More to come.....
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  • Bill JordanBill Jordan Member Posts: 1,402 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Wow! JustC; what a load room!!
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    The directions available from Lee (Or your freind if he hasn't lost them) are pretty good. Changing calibers takes about 1 minute if you are using the same size shell plate (like going from 9mm to 38 super) as it involves simply swaping out the dies and re-adjusting the powder dispenser.

    If you have to change shellplates, about 5 minutes and the use of two allen wrenches. Ergo what I do is load in batches; I load all my empty brass of one caliber in one sitting and then move on.

    Here is a thought. If you get it for free, take the drive spindle out and use it as a non-progressive press until you get used to it. It IS a decent press, just not as smooth as a Dillon or as rugged as a single stage, but by all means, don't look a gift horse in the mouth, especially one worth a few hundred dollars. [:)]
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    Got it on the bench-smooth surface, lots of shelving. How 'bout those plastic drawer organizers-they useful, or more trouble than the worth?

    Started with a base of 2x6's for the lower shelf and upper sub-surface. 4x4 legs. Getting some birch plywood to cover it. I think I may add a leg for an 'L' shape. Pix soon!
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  • ChetStaffordChetStafford Member Posts: 2,794
    edited November -1
    I know this will cause a lot of disagreement but if you want a press that will last you for life think rcbs rockchucker supreme I have 2 of them and really love them I also have an rcbs reloader special that I just leave set up for resizing .223 the lee challenger press will probably not hold up to well for resizing 30/06,308,7mm mag cases.

    Another suggestion would be an RCBS trim mate case prep center I has inside and outside deburring tools primer pocket cleaning brushes case neck cleaning brushes and you could also get all kind of other accessories for it
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  • SW 357MagSW 357Mag Member Posts: 1,960 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The LEE Challenger holds up fine to .308 and .30/06

    I reload both of them on my LEE Challenger.
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I have broken parts on my Lee challenger. I have not broken parts on my rockchucker. But times have changed and so has lee; their new classic cast press, if anything, makes the rockchucker look second best. For 1/3 the price. So if you DO end up buying a press, that's my top recommendation.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    Picked up the Lee Classic press kit for .50 BMG for starters. Likely going to stay with Lee for a single stage press or two for compatability reasons. I picked up a 110V Frankford Arsenal tumbler on the suggestion of a co-worker who reloads. Also bought the ABC's book.

    Decided to pass on the 1000-too much,too soon. Heard it's finicky too. Need to start slow. Any suggestions on a trimmer set-up or scales? electronic or mechanical? How about hand primers (heard this was the best way to prime)

    Am I starting out okay so far????
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by codenamepaul
    Picked up the Lee Classic press kit for .50 BMG for starters. Likely going to stay with Lee for a single stage press or two for compatability reasons. I picked up a 110V Frankford Arsenal tumbler on the suggestion of a co-worker who reloads. Also bought the ABC's book.

    Decided to pass on the 1000-too much,too soon. Heard it's finicky too. Need to start slow. Any suggestions on a trimmer set-up or scales? electronic or mechanical? How about hand primers (heard this was the best way to prime)

    Am I starting out okay so far????
    Well .50 BMG is out of my knowledge base entirely. For trimmers, for common calibers again, Lee is the easiest and I would argue the best, but if they don't make a pilot for your needed caliber, I'd start looking at a Lyman trimmer. I have an acculine for some of my oddball calibers. Scales? I would say electric all the way. Pact makes them for RCBS (but RCBS then ups the price!) and that is what I use. Don't get the BBK 2 it is a bit finiky. Even Frankford Arsenal's basic model works fine. Primers, go for Lee's Auto Prime 2. Hornady makes a similar one I think. It is surely the easiest. You might also want a powder dispenser; Lee Perfect Powder measure is great for stick powders, but leaks ball powder, while RCBS's drum dispenser is great on ball powders but grinds on stick powders. I have both.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    jonk-you've been a huge help Thanks!

    I am picking up a second Classic for other calibers. This way I can leave the first set up for 50's.

    In addition to the .50, I will also load .308, 30-06, 7MM Mag, .223, and .40 I'm thinking I will cut my teeth on the .223 or the .40

    Sounds like the powder dispensers can be finicky. Based on my loads above, should I get both the Lee and the RCBS?
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Hmm, if you can afford both, sure; if I had to go with just one it would be a hard choice. I hate to say it but probably the cheapo lee as even if it leaks a little powder here and there for really fine ball powders, better that then compacting flakes (like Red Dot) into clumps or chopping sticks of IMR 4895. A little leaked powder onto a sheet of catch paper is easily saved; but I have the perhaps paranoid fear of what the RCBS does to burn rate as it grinds the powder. This is admittedly minimal but I'm a bit of a perfectionist.
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  • SW 357MagSW 357Mag Member Posts: 1,960 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd also agree to get the LEE stuff.

    The Auto Prime 2 is an awesome little tool. Works like a charm and is only about 12 bucks I believe.

    The lee cutter and lock stud is also a very good choice for trimming. Simple and effective. Much, much lower priced as well.

    Lee perfect powder measure works great for me. The only ball powder I've tried in it is AA #2, but it does not leak. Maybe I'm just lucky, I have no idea.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    I am not without means, so yes, I can afford both. My desire to be frugal in this endeavor merely stems from not knowing whether or not this will be a lifelong thing. If it does become one, likely I will upgrade all that can be upgraded.

    I am thinking with the list of loads I mentioned, that I will end up with varieties of powder for them.


    More to come.....
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  • CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Paul, about your bench, this is what I did.

    Our house had a fairly large oak desk in the basement when we bought it.

    It's about 5'L x 2.5'W x 2.5'Tall.

    Drawers on both sides.

    I put a 12" "lift" on it by building a frame underneath it to raise it up.

    In the drawers I store tools, powder, bullets, primers, brass, and storage boxes. I also keep a calculator and notebook/pens in the desk for notes and calculations. The primers themselves are in the factory packaging in their own drawer, on the opposite side of the desk than the powder.

    I also built some shelves on top, reloading manuals, dies, reloading blocks, small containers, shell holders, etc.

    I went to Lowes and bought two sets of those small "buckets" or bins that hang on a rack that you mount to the wall. Each kit has 4 bins and the bracket. One is mounted directly in front of me on the wall. The other is on the end of the desk. They are great for sorting brass, etc.

    Run a couple outlets(if you can) near your station for your scales, tumblers, etc. I installed a light bank directly overhead. Good lighting is important.

    Try looking in some garage sales for a used heavy duty wood desk. This particular one is SOLID with a 2" thick top. It's not entirely pretty but it definitely does the trick.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    I'll post some pix tonight of my bench as it sits so far.

    I was looking at trimmers. Do all the trimmers use the same collets, etc?

    I have a tendancy to want to stick with Lee or RCBS because that's what I see most of at MidwayUSA. Thinking replacemant parts will be easy to find.

    I see Lyman and Forster too. Any suggestions?
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    No. Just to make life difficut, trimmers use different pilots; Lee's is keep it simple stupid, the pilot has a pin that goes through the flash hole and when it stops trimming it is done. RCBS or Lyman you have to set a stop yourself, which sometimes slips if you don't tighten it enough (or even if you do and are too strong). Though all presses DO take the same dies and shellholders unless you get something really weird.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    Lee it is for the trimmer.
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    Tumbling the first batch of brass as I type. Got about 15 .50BMG in the tumbler with a bunch of rice to see how it works. I'll check it in an hour or so. Which brings to mind yet another question, I have a batch of once fired brass, what is the process-step by step?
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  • alleybatalleybat Member Posts: 40 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I haven't loaded the big 50, but for 30-06,308 etc. I really like the RCBS for the re-sizing and depriming operations and the Lee o-press for the seating and crimping operations. The Lee is a lighter built press and I can feel what is going on better. It adds a little more consistancy to my overall lengths. As far as the once fired brass, check for cracked case mouths,a shiny ring just above the base of the cartridge head,etc. I purchased a Lyman reloading handbook when I first started reloading several years ago. The first half of the book is deicated to the process of reloading. This would be a great read for the novice or a great reference for even experienced guys! You will like the reloading, especially when you take a deer for the first time with your own ammo. TRY THIS BOOK!!!
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  • alleybatalleybat Member Posts: 40 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    P.S. Hey JustC, I want to build a house that looks just like your reloading room! NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![:)]
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    Last batch of .50's came out like new with a satin finish. First batch, 2 hours in plain rice yielded moderate results. Tried a second batch with a couple of handfuls of (brace yourself) floor sweeping compound and it yielded far better results. Threw in a 3rd batch before bed and checked it when I woke (approx 6 hours)and it came out like new. Not bad for rice. Going to try some other stuff I've read about here too. Thinking about getting another tumbler for polishing operations.

    The process as I understand it:

    Separate/Inspect/Reject
    Clean (water or tumbler???)
    Full length resize and deprime
    Check OAL (trim if needed)
    Clean and trim primer pockets
    Clean and polish (tumbler)
    Air clean (blow off casings)
    Hand prime
    Powder (set measure, check 10 loads, check every 10th thereafter)
    Bullet (seat and crimp in same step???)

    Sound about right??
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    The start of my bench

    Bench2.jpg

    Bench1.jpg
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  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    mine "was" a 1 car garage,...but with a pool table, bar, and reloading stuff,..who needs a garage? Anyone want to buy a garage door[;)]
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  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931 ✭
    edited November -1
    The bench will be upstairs-

    Garage52.jpg

    In Back
    Garage42.jpg
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  • Smitty500magSmitty500mag Member Posts: 13,623 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here's my hideaway where I do my reloading.[:)]

    Smitty

    garage008.jpg
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  • SW 357MagSW 357Mag Member Posts: 1,960 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Are you sure you can see well enough in there Smitty? Might need some more lighting. [;)]
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