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mildot scope question
ChetStafford
Member Posts: 2,794
I know it may a stupid question but what are all the dots for?
I have never used one nor has anybody I have shot with
I have never used one nor has anybody I have shot with
Comments
The mil-dot reticle was designed around the measurement unit of the milliradian. The dots, themselves, were designed with this in mind and the spacing of the dots was also based upon the milliradian. This allows the shooter to calculate the distance to an object of known height or width. Height of the target in yards divided by the height of the target in milliradians multiplied by 1000 equals the distance to the target in yards. For example, take a 6-foot-tall man (2 yards). Let's say that the top of his head lines up with one dot and his feet line up four dots down. So: (2/4)*1000 = 500 yards away. This same technique can be used to estimate lead on a moving target or to compensate for deflection on a windy day.
http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/MilDot_MOA.asp
http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/mildot.htm
http://www.opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=225&PN=1
http://www.riflescopes.com/downloads/pdf/mildot_guide.pdf
Best.
nononsense gave a pretty good introduction of how it works and the sights he listed give further and more in depth instruction as to how to use them. Two different methodologies to work it when separating fractions between mil-dots. The Marine method which breaks down to 1/8ths(via 1/2, 1/4, >1/8) then converts to decimal or 1/10ths. The Army method breaks it straight into 1/10th's. The dots in a Marine style are 1/4 of a mil and the dots' in an Army style are 2/10ths(.25mil vs. .2 mil). Therefore, half a dot would either be .125mil or .1 mil from the center of the crosshair line. The whole point is the finer you can break it down the closer you can come to making a first time shot and getting a hit.
The hardest part about learning to use a mil-dot is getting to know the standard heights of targets you will be shooting. Once you get that squared away it's as good as any BDC system out there. Certainly better than most. At really long ranges it will outshine most electronic range-finders you can buy over the counter. Again you have to get good with one. And it really helps to have it in a good scope not one of marginal quality. -good luck if you try one out.
p.s. This is a really cool site complete with another set of instructions as to how to use the mil-dot and then go practice doing it. http://www.shooterready.com/
I posted a question about a scope for a 700 vls I bought a cabelas pine ridge 6x18x40 side focus It would be fine for hunting but on the bench I get a lot of eye strain after 50 rounds or so
I shoot this rifle from the bench quite a bit and it will also be a hunting rifle coyotes,groundhogs and hopefully a prairie dog hunt
Just exploring my options I haven't had a chance to actually handle a Burris signature yet I do appreciate the links they have been very informative [:)]
http://www.nightforceoptics.com/?catid=4&viewitem=151
Just a note pertaining to what konamtbiker has said, I don't know which reticle of which he talks about but on the U.S. Optics website they have an MOA reticle set up like the Mil-dot reticle. But, you don't don't have to convert!
Edited: changed Nightforce to U.S. Optics, I couldn't find where Nightforce had an MOA reticle.
If you are looking at a top of the line scope and want to pay that much go ahead. It will be well worth the money if you do some "at the edge" shooting where that kind of optics will show to be worth the money. If not a high dollar scope won't be worth it to buy. And, by the way I think the top of the line Burris beats the top of the line Leupold hands down. -Good luck
Let's face it it is a .223 with a 1:12 twist tube cant shoot heavy enough pills to get out much past 4-500 yds.
I just want a scope with good clarity I think the VX-L or the nightforce is way more than I need but they are nice.
I think I will look a little more closely at the Burris's or the Nikon monarch's they should do fine
How often are you really going to dial a scope up to 24 any way? Shooting at paper between 1-300 yds and coyotes I have found that I rarely use anything over 12-14
Given your parameters, there is very little need for anything over the 12 - 16 power scopes. I use the Weaver 4-16 frequently on some varmint rifles and I wind up on the 12x when the mirage starts up. Burris and Nikon both make fine scopes for your intended targets.
If you're varmint hunting, extras don't usually create a problem so I suggest a separate rangefinder. They don't cost much any more and are really handy for the longer shots. If you're shooting targets, you should know the distance anyway.
Don't forget that you get 3 aiming points for windage and elevation with a standard duplex reticle.
Top of the bottom duplex.
Center of the reticle.
Bottom of the top duplex.
Same for L/R.
You should take the time to shoot these in and know the distance that each represents with your load.
Best.
I bought a nikon monarc 5.5x16.5x44ao with the bdc recticle very clear all the way up to 16.5 I really like it now all I need to do is get it zeroed in