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Reloading Conundrum II
nemesisenforcer
Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
OK, so I have a 6.5X55 milsurp swedish mauser I reload my brass for. The problem this time is that the shellholder is not, no matter what I do, going all the way to the top. In other words, it does not "bottom out" on the reloading die, meaning the case isn't fully resized/reshaped. I've tried adjusting the die height, adjusting the decapping pin height, removing the decapping pin altogether, everything I can think of. It's not THAT big of a deal. It's just causing my brass to fit really snug/tight in my chamber, much tighter than factory ammo/properly resized ammo. But I'd like to fix it if at all possible so that it's not a struggle to chamber my rounds.
I use the Lee anniversary reloading kit with the Lee RGB dies. Thanks.
I use the Lee anniversary reloading kit with the Lee RGB dies. Thanks.
Comments
Can you get the die to come all the way down to the shellholder (without a round in place) if you remove the die lock ring? You may need a thinner ring. I have had this issue once or twice over the years but I can't remember what calibers or setup they were on.
I'll try that and get back to you.
Can you get the die to come all the way down to the shellholder (without a round in place) if you remove the die lock ring? You may need a thinner ring. I have had this issue once or twice over the years but I can't remember what calibers or setup they were on.
Nope. Not the problem.
Measure the distance from the top of the ram to the lower surface of the press opening. Should be appx. 3 and 7/8 inches.
Hope this helps.
Edit: the distance was in error originally. Also; with the shell holder in the ram and die removed from press, measuring from flat surface on top of press to the outer rim of the shell holder should be appx. 1.235 inches.
What I'm reading in this is as you set up your die to bottom out on the shellholder, the case, when in the shellholder, doesn't go all the way to the neck. You need another shellholder that is thinner on top so it will push the case further up into the die. Where you need to measure is from the bottom face of the shellholder up to the rim that hits the bottom of the die. A different brand may be what you need. Or the correct brand. Had a few issues with using one RCBS shellholder for all dies when what I really needed was a Lee for Lee and RCBS for RCBS and Redding for Redding. -good luck
Best bet is to try some RCBS dies. They will do what the Lee will not.
nemesis,
What I'm reading in this is as you set up your die to bottom out on the shellholder, the case, when in the shellholder, doesn't go all the way to the neck. You need another shellholder that is thinner on top so it will push the case further up into the die. Where you need to measure is from the bottom face of the shellholder up to the rim that hits the bottom of the die. A different brand may be what you need. Or the correct brand. Had a few issues with using one RCBS shellholder for all dies when what I really needed was a Lee for Lee and RCBS for RCBS and Redding for Redding. -good luck
I've got a lee die and a lee press, FWIW, so I don't think that's the problem and I'd like to avoid spending more money on a die set I already have.
It could also be that your press has too much spring in it and doesn't have the rigidity to "cam over" enough to force the brass the last bit into the die.
Many people here recommend Lee products because they are inexpensive and they usually work OK. Those of us that have tried the better brands know from our own experience which works better.
When asking for a recommendation from someone, it is best to ask those that have used several of the types of item that you are looking for.
If someone has only driven a Yugo, they may not realize that a Chevrolet is much better. If they drive a Chevrolet, they may not realize that a Mercedes is better and so on. If you ask someone who has owned both, you will probably get a better idea of which is actually better.
As afr as already owning the Lee product, if you bought your Lee dies recently, Lee makes an offer to take their dies back and send you the other brand if you pay the difference. The cost of the dies is probably less than 2 boxes of ammo if you buy quality 6.5 ammo, so why not buy the good stuff?
If you ever have a problem with a RCBS die, even if it is your fault, they will fix them for free. Lee has a one or 2 year warranty. RCBS has a forever one.
That said this is a problem that my buddy has had with the same caliber die from Lee (6.5 Swede). Exact problem that you have. My 6.5 Swede dies work fine... could just be the chamber or drawings Lee based their dies off of was slightly out of spec?
nemesis,
What I'm reading in this is as you set up your die to bottom out on the shellholder, the case, when in the shellholder, doesn't go all the way to the neck. You need another shellholder that is thinner on top so it will push the case further up into the die. Where you need to measure is from the bottom face of the shellholder up to the rim that hits the bottom of the die. A different brand may be what you need. Or the correct brand. Had a few issues with using one RCBS shellholder for all dies when what I really needed was a Lee for Lee and RCBS for RCBS and Redding for Redding. -good luck
I've got a lee die and a lee press, FWIW, so I don't think that's the problem and I'd like to avoid spending more money on a die set I already have.
Nemesis,
What I was thinking is the shellholder. They are only a few bucks. If you can get to your reloading store see if you can measure the one you have against the one you might want to buy. You certainly shouldn't need a new set of dies.
Maybe it is just the Lee press has too much flex in it. He could turn down the die or as someone else already stated, he could just grind down the top of the shellholder on a flat surface with some emery cloth. Or maybe try his dies in a friends press or vice-versa.
I just know that with my RCBS press and RCBS dies, I haven't had a problem with any of those calibers and I load for 6.5 x 55, 7.65 arg, 30-06, 8mm and a whole pile of others. When I tried Lee, I had a problem.
I took my die into a gunsmith who put it on his massive Rock Chucker press with a cam over feature. It bottomed out no problem with all the brass I tried in it. That tells me it's not the die's fault, but rather the press. It's an aluminum framed O press that works good on everything else, but for some reason just won't quite go all the way with the 6.5 brass. The table I have isn't the best either, as it "flexes" when the going gets really tough. So, the force that ordinarily would be pushing the brass all the way into the die is instead being expended on flexing the press and the table. My other buddy has a big cast iron Lee press that I'm gonna try out just to make sure. I'll keep you updated.
Interesting. My buddy with the same problem in this caliber has the same press. I would guess perhaps then that Lee really did use a very tight chamber for its die design, and many of us have guns with a more generous web area requiring a lot of force to resize. Still, the Lee O frame challenger's only issue should be in the toggle linkage, not the press frame itself. Interesting.
FWIW, the shoulder on the 6.5 is set at a rather steep 25 degrees. By comparison, the .30/06's shoulder is 17.5 degrees. Could this have something to do with the difficulty of getting the brass all the way into the die? That's my father's theory at any rate.
Your Lee press should be OK for handgun loads with carbide dies and other light duty operations. You could also use it for sizing cast bullets and decapping cases, so it is not a total waste.
A sturdy bench will also help some. I built some benches using 2x4's and mounted them to a wall and made a top out of a double layer of the thick pressboard used for countertops. An old, solid wood door would work OK also. I also use a Sears Craftsman workbench with a wood top on a metal frame with drawers on one side. You can mount the press on the other side and it won't interfere with the top drawer. And you can use the drawers to store your dies as well. The craftsman bench can be mounted to the floor for extra strength if you want.