barrel size?

joes

I would like to replace my barrel on a browning a-bolt in a 223 wssm. The problem I am having is that the gun is VERY fickle! I have tried seven types of powders, neck turn, loaded up, down and every which way. I have tried serval different weight bullets also(from 55 gr to 69 gr.). I poured over hours of reading on the wssm forums, and found some common issues. It is my opion that the caliber shoots so fast that the barrel begins to distort and open up groups. I tend to shoot the first two and throw off the third. (first two under .5, the third brings the group to 1.5- 2.0 in. After barrel heats up anything can, and does happens. It is not just me, as I had a friend that reloads try also with similar results. So the other day as a last effort I brought a cleaning rod. Clean, cold barrel shoots in, second shot with a pass of a brush and seven minute wait also in, and the same on the third shot ( also seven minute wait) showed a .5 inch group. The barrel on a standard three shot group will burn you hand to the touch. In an attempt not to wait 21 minutes to shoot a three shot group I figured I should " spend more money". It is my belief that the barrels on the a-bolts are not able to handle the heat/speed. I think that a 22' barrel is to short too. I like the savage barrels and would like to know ( because i have never shopped for a barrel) what is the size (i.e. #) for a barrel the size of a heavy barrel savage model 12? Also if anyone has any advice let me have it .......please! thanks again, joe.

JustC

you are correct about size. The thicker the barrel,..the longer it takes to heat up,..but also, the longer it takes to cool down. Factory barrels are mostly hammer forged, which imparts a lot of stress into the metal, and they are NOT stress releived before leaving the factory. Match barrels ARE stress releived, and even in the same contour, will always shoot better than factory tubes.

Tailgunner1954

If you go to the websites of the "big" barrel guys, they offer a table of the dimensions they use for their couture #'s.
You do need to check the various sites, as a Shilen #5 is not the same as a Lilja #5 which is not the same as a Pac-Nor #5.

dcs shooters

You should check to see if the barrel is free floated. If not you might try to relive the pressure on it. If it is try a business card under the front to put pressure on it. These are things to try before you blame the barrel.

charliemeyer007

I had a Rem 700 Varmit Special in .223. I tried 10 or 12 powders, 30 different bullets, every small rifle primer made and 3 different die sets and still could not get as good as groups as factory ammo. I gave the gun to friend that doesn't reload. This was the only rifle so far that I have had fail to do better with my ammo.

telkev

Replacing the barrel with a varmit contour will definately help your groups, but check the bedding on the rifle before you spend a lot of money. I have had that problem before. Replacing the barrel with a heavier contour will also require the stock to be re-inletted for the larger barrel or buying another stock, which can cost a much as the barrel.

Hawk Carse

I don't know if the Savage heavy barrel is just the same as any aftermarket contour. Pac-Nor will make you a Savage Varmint contour barrel if you order it. I have a Pac-Nor #7 which is the next size heavier than factory Savage varmint.

The bad news is that it will take gunsmith work to replace the barrel on your Browning. They are not DIY friendly like Savage. I don't know what quality barrel you want and need but it will run in the range of $300 for a stainless Shaw to $500+ for a Krieger.