Wax Loads

lee_dan

Hay all----
Any one ever done any WAX LOADS ??
Lee

reloader44mag

no. tell me about them

dakotashooter2

Yep... tried a few. Sure make a dog yelp at 30 feet.

Drill out primer hole
Push case into cake of paraffin wax
Prime case & fire

A couple of notes. I found that the paraffin is a bit "brittle" for lack of a beter term. The wax bullet may develop a crack when you push the case into the wax. If you don't drill out the primer hole the primer will set back upon fireing and tie up your gun (revolver)

lee_dan

You don't have to drill out the primer hole --
Just deprine --- size -- reprime --
push into soft wax -- and your good to go --
send your e mail to leedanzl@q.com --
I will send you some pics--
Lee

reloader44mag

So the primer is the propellant? If so. how "deep" would the wax be on a 38spl. Sounds interesting. Does it mess up the barrel?

lee_dan

yes --
the primer has more pop than you think ---
I will send you some pics if you want

leedanzl@q.com
Lee

scrubberguy

lee_dan:
It really doesn't matter how far the wax goes into the case. Usually guys get the old sealing wax from the hardware store and it's about 1/2 inch thick. Push the 38 case through it until it cuts through the other side of the wax bar and your done.

Be aware that the primer will back out and tie up a revolver cylinder! So you can do 45 Auto or drill out flash holes and then mark the case with red paint or fingernail polish. This way you won't get them confused with regular cases and no once they are "modified" you cannot switch them back to regular loads!

I got fancy when I had a dog problem and actually "cast" some "250" Kieths in an old lyman bullet mold! They looked great! no problem with the barrel but spent hours getting the wax of the mold so I could actually use it again!

Don't recommend it my way! Used one wax bullet on dog, he went away at warp 9.5 and NEVER returned![8D]

lee_dan

WHOOOOOOO----
Why do you think you have to drill out the primer hole ---
the primer has all the power you need --
I popped a hole thru a pop can both sides with a 30 30 at 20 feet
Just the primer ---
Lee

BHAVIN

Been shooting wax bullets for 30 years. You can buy rubber bullets in 38,44 and 45 caliber that are reusable and much cleaner to shoot. You can shoot with cases that are standard or you can use an 1/8" drill bit to open the primer pocket up to allow more power from the primer. We have used the same brass for years and never had a primer back out far enough to tie up a cylinder. Marking these cases as suggested above is absolutley a great idea as loading them with normal bullets and powder can be really bad. Drilling out the pocket does make a difference. We used 1/2" blocks of parafin and press the case all the way to the bottom and pull it out. Like I stated above the rubber bullets work great and are much cleaner. Midway USA sells them.

perry shooter

Be careful what you shoot I used a 22 rimfire years ago just pulled the bullet and pressed a 1/2 inch thick block of parafin into case mouth left powder in . I was going to out draw Matt on GUNSMOKE [:p]. I tried it before aiming at the TV lucky thing I did it went through a 1 inch pine board at 10 feet. [}:)][:0]

HandgunHTR52

quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
Be careful what you shoot I used a 22 rimfire years ago just pulled the bullet and pressed a 1/2 inch thick block of parafin into case mouth left powder in . I was going to out draw Matt on GUNSMOKE [:p]. I tried it before aiming at the TV lucky thing I did it went through a 1 inch pine board at 10 feet. [}:)][:0]


[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

dakotashooter2

Drilling out the primer is not about power it is about keeping the primer seated in the pocket after firing. With any load when the primer is ignited the primer pushes itself away from the case. When the powder ignites it pushes the case back against the primer backed by the boltface/frame and reseats it. In a low power round the case is not set back to re-seat the primer (no recoil) in most cases leaving it partially protruding from the case. In most revolvers the protruding primer will bind against the frame making the cyclinder difficult to turn. Drilling out the primer/flash hole allows all the energy of the primer to enter the case instead of pushing against the bottom of the primer pocket and driving the primer out. Result will vary some depending on primer strength, flash hole size and tollerances in a specific gun. If what you are doing is working without a problem great. Just be aware that if you switch to another brand of primers problems could show up. Or it could be an indicator that your guns tollerances are on the large end of the scale.

RCrosby

I used to shoot wax bullets in my ACP back in the '60's. I had a reloading press (now long gone, but some may still be around) that would press 16 or so cases down onto a block of parafin at a time. Don't recall who made it. As best I recall it had a cast iron base that took 1/2 a block of parafin, some sort of shell holder that aligned the 16 cases, then a top plate which had an unthreated hole through the center, in line with a threaded hole in the baseplate. the final piece was an "L" shaped rod with a flange that allowed you to insert it through the hole in the top plate, through a hole in the center of the parafin and into the threaded hole of the base plate. Turning this "screw" brought the 2 plates together and forced the brass over the wax. I might be making this next part up, but I recall priming after seating the bullets as air pressure tended to push the bullets back on, especially on warm days.