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Removing case lube

Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
How do you remove case lube after you have resized the case? I do fairly small batches - around 100 so I wipe down each case with a damp rag. Is there an easier and faster way?

Comments

  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Boiling water with some white vinegar and a few drops of dish detergent. Agitate and let soak then rinse with hot water and let dry.
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Huh! never thought of just dunking them in water. I guess the case is tight enough to prevent any intrusion into the powder. Thanks!
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,248 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Alot of people put the cases into the tumbler for a short time. Strongly suggest that you do not do this. However tempting it may seem, this reduces the cleaning ability of the media, and could lead to an undetected piece of the stuff in the flashhole, particularly if you are reloading on a progressive.I wipe each case off with a rag containing rubbing alchol, turning the rag frequently. I also inspect each case at that time and clean the primer pocket of crud.
    edit: I dont think JustC meant after the case is loaded!
  • ladamsladams Member Posts: 604 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I just use a towel, works fine for me.
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    "I dont think JustC meant after the case is loaded!"

    Now that makes a lot more sense to me! Thanks for the advice on not using the tumbler.
  • BHAVINBHAVIN Member Posts: 3,490 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I do large batches of brass. I use Dillon spray lube and rinse my cases off in hot water, let them dry either in the sun or in front of the heater for a couple of hours and then throw them in the tumbler for an hour with corn media that I use specifically for this. After, I inspect each case and while doing so make sure the primer pocket is clear. I have been doing this for years and years. Never any problems and it takes care of any lube inside the case and is faster than wiping down. I know that many case lubes are not supossed to taint powder but I would rather not have to worry about it. If you wipe cases down with a rag it is pretty hard to get the inside of the case.
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 14,083 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used Lee case lube with good success. It's water soluble but wipes off easily with a dry rag. Lately, I've been using RCBS spray lube and run the cases for another hour in the tumbler after sizing. This is a good idea anyway as it helps clean out the primer pockets and cleans up any lube that might have got inside the neck.
  • scrubberguyscrubberguy Member Posts: 219 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Maxx:
    You didn't mention if your reloading pistol or rifle. I do know I've seen adds for a few carbide rifle dies, very pricey! I have been using both Imperial sizing die wax and Hornady's version of same for rifle cases. use very little, wipes right off doesn't screw up media in tumbler. Lee stuff also good, haven't used RCBS.

    If your reloading pistol and haven't made the move to carbide dies bite the bullet and do so! Life is so much better with carbide![8D]
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I use either Hornady 1 shot or Lee sizing lube dilluted with rubbing alcohol and put in a spray bottle- the reason is both truly dry and don't leave an oily mess like Dillon's lanolin base lube. Ergo, they can dry after sizing (or before), and I can load them without having to clean them out first. I tumble the loaded rounds to remove the lube on the outside.

    If I AM using a lube that doesn't truly dry or want to remove the lube from inside the case is well, both boiling and a second round in the tumbler work well.
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Huh? thought I had responded but guess it did not "take". Thanks to all for the suggestions and insight. Loading for 45-70 and 30/30. Also for M1 Carbine but have the carbide die set for that.

    Thanks again
  • BHAVINBHAVIN Member Posts: 3,490 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Maxx, check your 30 carbine die literature. Even though it is a carbide set I think you will find that they still reccomend that you lube cases on the 30 carbine.
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Well - Well Lee does recomend that you lube for the carbide die set for the M1 Carbine. Just finished loading about 700 rounds with no lube. Did not seem to be a problem. I thought that the idea of carbide was so that you did not have to lube???? Reading the directions is an interesting concept - may have to look into that some day (I actually did just missed that line)

    So what is the up side for carbide other than they won't wear out?
  • scrubberguyscrubberguy Member Posts: 219 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Maxx424:
    The upside to Carbide dies is the ability to work with out a case lube "in most cases" The 30 carbine case is a bit on the weird side and, back in the day when I shot one, I would put a little Imperial sizing die wax on every 20th or 25th case going in the die. You can feel the difference. Any way the lube is needed because of the taper on the carbine case. This is why you don't see rifle dies made from carbide from the big reloading companies, but I have seen some guys advetising in Handloader for specific dies like 308 and 30-06. I have not explored these dies sets as I believe they are quite expensive.

    Be that as it may, the amount of taper in a case has a lot to do with the ability to grind the carbide to size the case and not leave a sharp edge on the base of the case after it been sized.

    Thats why you won't find carbide dies for some cartridges.[8D]
  • confederategunrunnerconfederategunrunner Member Posts: 2 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use RCBS CaseSlick, I wipe the cases off with a rag dampened with a slight bit of Hoppe's, let the cases air-dry for a bit and continue on.
  • A J ChristA J Christ Member Posts: 7,534
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Maxx424
    Huh! never thought of just dunking them in water. I guess the case is tight enough to prevent any intrusion into the powder. Thanks!


    I don't believe I'd dunk loaded ammo in water on purpose.

    I run mine through the polisher, lube them, resize them, clean the primer pockets and then, when the wife isn't home or looking, run them through the dishwasher. They come out nice and clean. When I'm sure they are dry, reprime them, add powder, add bullets and a crimp and we are done. If I intend to fire them soon, usually won't use any sealant.
  • Remington1981Remington1981 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    After I get done sizing my Brass. I wash them in a plastic Tub with hot water(Just be sure that you are using a water Soluable lube). To dry them I put them on a Air bake cookie sheet and but them in the oven at 200 degrees for about 15 min. I find that this works well. Good luck
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have washed my old STP-like RCBS lube off of hundreds of cases by throwing them in the washing machine along with some dirty laundry. The agitator has to be close enough to the bottom of the tub to prevent cases getting under it. I washed mine loose, but a better way would be some kind of heavy mesh bag with a neck that can be securely tied. I never saw any wear and tear on the tub's enamel coating, but continued abuse like this would probably wear it thin in places. There are some washers with stainless steel tubs that would be ideal for this. [:D]
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Again - thanks to all. Have tried a number of the suggestions here and the easies for me is the vinigar, soap and hot water. Then on the cookie tin in the oven at 200 for a few minutes. Seems to work just fine and is much better than one at a time for me.
  • eastbankeastbank Member Posts: 4,052 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i put my sized cases on a old towel and spray with cheap starting fluid and then roll them around on the towel. eastbank.
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