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why do i have a psi problem heavy pic

OK i have this posted in ask experts and reloading.
the line you see , is that suppose to be there or is it a crACK?

first pic is as far as that case will go there is a small piece of copper i dug out of the top of the strap and barrel

went to the range with a new powder and bullet brand, no i did not work a load up as i have loaded for this cal for some time now.
i did not load t the Max either.
i used win 231 10.8-10.9, cci mag primers west coast 240 FP copper bullet with new Winchester case. looks like my primers are flatten out, cases were hard to extract (very hard) 3 had split.
Rounds did not feel that hot I shot some from my desert eagle and it did not want to rack the slid back enough to chamber another round. So there not hot enough for that gun. I was using 2400 and H110 no problems. Could it just be the gun does not care for win 231[?]

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Comments

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    B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Is it at all possible that you could have misread the scale and loaded 18gr powder? I did this the 1st time I reloaded 32 years ago and loaded 16 instead od 10.6 gr 630 in a 38 SP case. Pull a bullet from any remaining cases and check the charge. Just an idea.
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by B17-P51
    Is it at all possible that you could have misread the scale and loaded 18gr powder? I did this the 1st time I reloaded 32 years ago and loaded 16 instead od 10.6 gr 630 in a 38 SP case. Pull a bullet from any remaining cases and check the charge. Just an idea.


    NO, I use powder drop and check it with a digital scale and DBL check it with a beam scale about every 10-12 rounds, but because you brought it up I will pull a case to check it, I have been on the wrong page and started to put . 5 gr. in for the 44 the page was on 45acp. it flipped over when I was not looking.
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    That is flame cutting on the top strap.Most of the time it only goes so deep then stops. If I were you I would start using a slower burning powder. I have shot a lot of 44mag and never had one cut thaqt deep.
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
    That is flame cutting on the top strap.Most of the time it only goes so deep then stops. If I were you I would start using a slower burning powder. I have shot a lot of 44mag and never had one cut thaqt deep.


    SOUNDS LIKE A DEAL TO ME.[;)]

    that would sux if the dang thing broke apart there
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    dtknowlesdtknowles Member Posts: 810 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    With 231 the pressures could be high and still not cycle the Desert Eagle. DE is gas op and 231 is a fast powder and high initial chamber pressure could have dropped before the bullet gets past the gas ports. Switch back to 110 or 2400.

    Tim
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    dtknowlesdtknowles Member Posts: 810 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I checked three manuals and only the Winchester manual gave a recommended load for 231 with a 240 gr. bullet and max was 11 gr with one bullet and 11.2 with another. That means your load was between 96.4 and 99.1 percent of max. load. To my way of thinking that is very close to max. load. too close to say it isn't.

    The reason the load does not seem hot is because it is a poor choice of powders and even though you will have high pressures you will not get top velocity.

    If you put a case full of fast pistol powder in a rifle case you can blow up the gun without exceeding factory load velocity.

    Tim
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dtknowles
    I checked three manuals and only the Winchester manual gave a recommended load for 231 with a 240 gr. bullet and max was 11 gr with one bullet and 11.2 with another. That means your load was between 96.4 and 99.1 percent of max. load. To my way of thinking that is very close to max. load. too close to say it isn't.

    The reason the load does not seem hot is because it is a poor choice of powders and even though you will have high pressures you will not get top velocity.

    If you put a case full of fast pistol powder in a rifle case you can blow up the gun without exceeding factory load velocity.

    Tim


    guess i should have stayed with what was working, (if it aint broke dont fix it)[:)]
    one would think if a formula didn't work well they would skip adding it to the reload book.[B)]
    like on a mauser 8mm 170 gr bullet there are all kinds of powders to use go to a 220 bullet and there are about 4 powders listed.

    guess some good deals can bite.

    thanks for all this info
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    peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    Although I have not had a revolver with timing issues that I am aware of, I have always thought that
    'Timing' meant that the cylinder was either not turning far enough, or turnig too far and the chamber
    was not lining up with the barrel. If that is the case, it seems that the shaving would either be on the
    left or right side of the forcing cone and not at the top.
    The primers do look flattened to me, indicating higher pressures.
    It seems that the cylinder is 'tilting'
    up at the front indicating wear somewhere that is allowing this to happen. Maybe the crane is bent.
    Maybe the higher pressure is causing
    it to tilt and if allowed to continue, will cause excessive wear.
    I could be that the forcing cone was not cut enough or was cut off center (maybe a little low)
    but will only cause problems with higher pressure loads.
    Just my interpretation of the pictures.


    Thanks---Peabo
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    Although I have not had a revolver with timing issues that I am aware of, I have always thought that
    'Timing' meant that the cylinder was either not turning far enough, or turnig too far and the chamber
    was not lining up with the barrel. If that is the case, it seems that the shaving would either be on the
    left or right side of the forcing cone and not at the top.
    The primers do look flattened to me, indicating higher pressures.
    It seems that the cylinder is 'tilting'
    up at the front indicating wear somewhere that is allowing this to happen. Maybe the crane is bent.
    Maybe the higher pressure is causing
    it to tilt and if allowed to continue, will cause excessive wear.
    Just my interpretation of the pictures.


    Thanks---Peabo


    primers are flat i did check some old brass that was used with 2400 and primers look fine on them
    this is about what all are saying i checked the slop of the cyl and its not much i have newer guns with more. everything looks to line up when looking down the barrel and rocking the cyl as much as it will. could be a powder problem, causing high psi and the gun flexing when shot before bullet can enter barrel. will get it checked out and load up some 2400 or unique and see if problem goes away,
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    peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    I don't think that you could detect that little amount of wear when checking by hand. It would take some precision instruments to measure that little of an amount of misalignment. There is a gauge that is inserted through the barrel and into the cylinder (being long enough to be into both at the same time and of a precise diameter) that will detect cylinder to barrel alignment, or misalignment. If the cylinder misalignment is only present when firing 'hot' loads, this method will not detect that.
    I would try a different powder or a lighter load with the same powder and see if the shaving still occurs.
    Lee, I am also in Florida. Where are you? IIRC you are in the panhandle. I am in Central Florida.


    Thanks---Peabo
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    I don't think that you could detect that little amount of wear when checking by hand. It would take some precision instruments to measure that little of an amount of misalignment. There is a gauge that is inserted through the barrel and into the cylinder (being long enough to be into both at the same time and of a precise diameter) that will detect cylinder to barrel alignment, or misalignment. If the cylinder misalignment is only present when firing 'hot' loads, this method will not detect that.
    I would try a different powder or a lighter load with the same powder and see if the shaving still occurs.


    Thanks---Peabo


    going to take it in monday, i knew there was a gauge that can be used just thought i would look in the hole to see what could be seen,

    wife walked in and thought she was going to collect on some insurance.[:D]

    dont think ill use that powder for this gun, i just got a deal on 4 lbs, ill feed it to some other round.i reload for all my guns im sure something will like it[;)]
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    peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    Are you in the Panhandle? I'm in Central Florida.
    Wish we were closer so we could get together and have a FTF discussion about this.
    I have used a lot of 231 for 45acp.
    My wife has also thought about the possibilities of collecting my life insurance because of my involvement with guns.[:D]


    Thanks---Peabo
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    B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Peabo -231 is a great powder for 45 acp, just not the best choice for a 44 mag with heavy bullets. As stated 2400 with a fairly heavy roll crimp is the powder of choice for that type of load. 231 with a cast bullet at say 900 fps would probably work well.
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    CHEVELLE427CHEVELLE427 Member Posts: 6,750
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    Are you in the Panhandle? I'm in Central Florida.
    Wish we were closer so we could get together and have a FTF discussion about this.
    I have used a lot of 231 for 45acp.
    My wife has also thought about the possibilities of collecting my life insurance because of my involvement with guns.[:D]


    Thanks---Peabo


    im in pensacola.
    i just pulled all the ones left loaded. will use my old loads for the 44, and try this 231 out in the 45.

    thanks
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    You can check timing yourself. Cock the hammer slowley and watch the cylinder. It should click in position just before the hammer locks back in every notch. The rod through the barrel checks alignment of the cylinder.
  • Options
    peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
    ....... The rod through the barrel checks alignment of the cylinder.




    Isn't that what I said ???????


    Thanks---Peabo
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