Does reloading lubicant affect chambering

je2140

I usually tumble clean my cases (.223, .308, .45, 9MM, 357 ) before I begin the reloading process. I use a spray on aerosol case lube for resizing. Is there any reason to clean off the case lube after resizing?
I sometimes have chambering problems (even with small base dies) in my tight chambered 308's semi auto's but I figure the case lube should help chambering?

JR
The truth is that all good modern rifles are efficient weapons; it is the man behind the gun that makes the difference

Theodore Roosevelt

FrancF

quote:I sometimes have chambering problems (even with small base dies) in my tight chambered 308's semi auto's but I figure the case lube should help chambering?


Are you getting a true full length resize? and making sure you under max
OAL for your brass 2.010-.015.


NRA Life Endowment Member

buddyb

You need to get all the lube off before you load.I have heard many reasons but I dont want case lube in my firearms chamber and petroleum base lube will degrade powder and primers.Tumble cases again before you prime them.I had the same chambering problem you have when I loaded 308s for a 742 Remington.What I did to solve it was after I sized the case,try to chamber it in the rifle you are loading for.If it is too tight,turn the sizing die in a little at a time until the case chambers easily.

perry shooter

Hello You did not state if you were CRIMPING the bullet On soft brass "REM" for one if you have a long case or you set the crimp die to crimp hard some times this will cause a buldge just below the crimp. After you size the next batch of cases but before you install primers or powder/bullets see if all cases will chamber if They do then reload them and try again if you now have trouble you know it is in the seating /crimping of the bullet.

jonk

Well, if you like having a slimy lube residue on the cases.....

I don't like the idea of any foreign substance on my cases. Ergo, I re-tumble. If inclined, you might also choose to wipe them off with an old rag.

I don't know as it is unsafe, just could eventually build up gunk in the chamber, and might cause the brass to expand unevenly on ignition. Just my guesses though.

mrbruce

All the reloading manuals state that you must clean off the lube before loading !!
The case needs to be able to expand and grip the chamber walls, and hang on tight.
If there is still lube on the case it will be able to slip backwards and cause a lot of rear bolt thrust, and thats not all that good to do.....

je2140

Thanks for the ideas, guess I'll start tumbling after resizing.
Checking the crimp is a good idea, I haven't been intending to crimp, but I'll double check.
I thought I had failed to screw my small base die down far enough to comphensate for reloader stretch, but I'll check crimp and start removing the case lube as well.

DEP

I use a solvent on my cases after I resize. Starting fluid (ether) is cheap, effective and readily evaporates. Be careful,it is highly flammable, and use it outside,with unlimited ventilation, as it is noxious (and angers the wife ). I also use it on semi auto actions (cheaper than Rem Clean), but you must relube after, and it doesn't do any favors for the plastic grips.

Highball

A so-called 'Blue Pill' load...after chambering a new barrel on an action...consists of lightly lubing a factory round and firing it.

The case does not grip the walls of the chamber as they should in a normal firing..and there will be, as stated above back-thrust such as a 70-80 thousand PSI over-loaded round would give.

This is a ONE TIME OPERATION..to test the job.

Every bit of lube needs to come off the case...and the chamber only LIGHTLY oiled after cleaning..then wiped with a dry patch.