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Dirty Lube Pad

sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
I recently purchased a used lube pad off of the auction site. It is in very good condition but it is very dirty. It has little pieces of "trash" all over it. Can the pad be cleaned to get all the old lube out of it and trash off of it or do I have a pig in a poke?

Comments

  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just wash it out in hot soapy water and rinse it good. don,t wring it out,but press the water out with a towell on the top and bottom. relube. I wish you would have said you were looking for some. I have 2 that I havent used in 20 years, I would have sent you. If you want 'em E-mail me with your addy. Use my link on the profile.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 30,903 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you are using Imperial Sizing wax or lanolin based lubes like Hornaday, a pad will waste lube and apply way to much. I put a dab in the center of my palm and spread it around. The heat from my body makes it thinner and it applies just the right amount of lube as I roll six to ten cases between my hands. A small tub will lube many thousands of cases. Do not get lube on the shoulder of the case or it could cause dents.
  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    That nasty old pad should be tossed before it contaminates your nice clean brass, lord know what all is stuck to it.
    Imperial sizing die wax to the rescue.....
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Nearly identical substitute for Imperial Sizing Wax, cheaper, available anywhere.

    minkoil-kiwi.jpg
  • greystonegreystone Member Posts: 194 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Kiwi Mink Oil? Might have to try that.
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mr. Bruce, I must admit that I agree with you. No telling what kind of contamination is in the pad. When I first saw it I said, "YUK". It actually looks like it fell on the floor at some point and just placed back in the case. At least the pocket book wasn't hurt too bad. It only cost me a couple of bucks. I'll give the hot soapy water a try but if that doesn't suit me I'll throw it away and go to plan B. Thanks.
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Greystone, do you apply the mink oil to the pad?
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by sirgknight
    Greystone, do you apply the mink oil to the pad?


    No, you "wet" your fingers and thumb that pick up the brass and wipe a little lube on the case as you put it in the shell holder. I lube the inside of the necks with an old .38 wool mop screwed into an RCBS utility handle. I swipe the mop over the top of the lube to pick some up on it, and use the mop to wipe excess lube off the shell holder after a half dozen rounds, recycling it.

    A little bit of this kind of lube goes a long way. I just got through full length sizing about 900 cases and hardly made a dent in the Kiwi.

    A 2 5/8 oz tin of Kiwi Mink Oil leather preservative costs $4.50 at Wal-Mart, and should last the average reloader for decades. You don't have to wait or pay shipping to get it.
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Dumpster, I thank you for the great tip. I just hope our wallyworld sells the mink oil. You wouldn't believe how horrible our store is when it comes to carrying certain items.
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I got both of your E- mails and understand. However the system will not allow me to reply to you for some reason. I hate to use this forum as a mail board but it was my only option in this case. Good luck. You're asking all the right questions.
  • konamtbikerkonamtbiker Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Im about to save you alot of time.......Hornady One Shot
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by konamtbiker
    Im about to save you alot of time.......Hornady One Shot


    A friendly suggestion: search "One Shot" on any reloading forum and read all the horror stories about cases stuck in the sizing die. Many use it with no problems, but the #1 culprit in stuck cases by far is One Shot.
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by sirgknight
    Dumpster, I thank you for the great tip. I just hope our wallyworld sells the mink oil. You wouldn't believe how horrible our store is when it comes to carrying certain items.


    Keep your fingers crossed as you cruise the shoe department looking for the shoe polish rack!

    [:p]
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Most of the problems "caused" by using ONE SHOT is that the users dont follow the directions. I know, I was one of them. Let the product dry or help it with a blow dryer or heat gun. This product cut my time by 80 % at least for the sizing operation. I spray 80 cases at one time when I do .223 or 55 when I do 22-250. This is only because of the size of the cake pan.[V] I still use Imperial for the bigger magnums. [;)]
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    B17-P51, judging by your username can we assume that you are a WWII vet? If so, in what branch of service did you serve? I am a Vietnam Vet, my father was WWII vet and was a master mechanic on airplanes. I have the greatest admiration and appreciation for our WWII Veterans. I appreciate the honor, patriotism and sacrifice that is surpassed by no other generation. If you are not a WWII Vet, then that's OK too; I love your user ID. Thank YOU!
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for you support of all veterans. I am not a vet of any branch but my 86 year old father was a B17 Ball Turret gunner with 52 documented missions. Shot down and wounded, floated in the Medeteranian Sea for 3 days on his 38th mission (Reagansburg, Germany)while flying out of Foggia, Italy. Got patched up, a little R&R,went back an flew 15 more. 7 kills, 4 me109's, 3 fw190's. Purple Heart and DFC (Distinguished Flying Cross) Award. P-51,s On the other hand, saved his * many times near the end of the war, once even by the famous "Red Tails" of Tuskeege airman fame, who never lost a bomber under their protection , in combat.
    My Son is a U S Army RANGER, 5 trips to the sandbox and 'ghan. Also injured. I do every thing I can to support those who serve. NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY!!!
    EDIT: Forgot to mention that I have also flown on both aircraft!
  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    The only time I ever had a case stick in a die was from that nasty old One Shot, and I do follow instructions to the T.
    It now sets on the shelf with a note that states--DO NOT USE--
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    M Bruce_ I have had exactly the same experience and also have a bottle of the Frankford Arsenal lube on the shelf that I do not use. The texture and feel of that lube reminded me of the "Gear Lube" type case lubes that were so popular 30 years ago. Do you use Imperial for everything? If so how do you get it off the case? I like it alot but find my self wiping each case with a rag, damp with rubbing alcohol. Do you have a better way that you would like to share. Thanks!
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    .....and the mink oil. Is it easily removed from the brass? Will the tumbler clean it all off?
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by sirgknight
    .....and the mink oil. Is it easily removed from the brass? Will the tumbler clean it all off?


    No, it won't tumble off - it's a greasy wax that will have to wiped off by hand or washed off.

    I've found the quickest and easiest way is to put a few hundred sized and greasy cases in an old cook pot, cover with several inches of soapy water, bring to a low boil, and then dump the hot water and brass into a metal colander in the sink. Before I dump out the wash water I stir them around real good to make sure all buildups of lube in the rims gets knocked out.

    I then rinse them in the sink with the hose thing, and dump them back into the cook pot, cover with several inches of hot water, bring to a low boil again, stir around, dump out into the colander.

    I then dump the washed and rinsed cases onto an old bath towel on the counter and rub them around real good in the tower. The cases are clean but need the insides and primer pockets dried out. Either leave them sit to dry out or put them back in the cook pot on a top burner set as low as it will go. After a while the cases are dry inside and out.

    I think I've cleaned and dried up to 500-600 full sized rifle cases a day this way, without even half trying. I've cleaned over a thousand pistol cases a day this way without half trying.

    Tumbling only works on the "lubes" that spray on, and frequently get cases stuck in the sizing die. I've never seen or used a lube that could safely get the sizing job done and still be water soluble or could be easily rubbed off in a tumbler.

    I've found the only sizing lube I'm going to use from now on.

    [:p]
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    My wife just got back from Wallyworld and brought me a can of Mink Oil....$5. I'll be trying this next time I reload.
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by sirgknight
    My wife just got back from Wallyworld and brought me a can of Mink Oil....$5. I'll be trying this next time I reload.


    You won't regret it. Just use it sparingly. It doesn't take much, and if you get too much on the neck and shoulder of a rifle case you might get some hydraulic dents. All you need is a very thin film on the case, and mostly on the straight sides.

    Occasionally stick a case mouth down onto the wax to pick up a little inside, to lube the expander button. Or just use a Q-tip with a little lube on it. Lube will start to build up on the shell holder, so just use the swab to pick that up for use in the case mouth.

    [8D]
  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by B17-P51
    M Bruce_ I have had exactly the same experience and also have a bottle of the Frankford Arsenal lube on the shelf that I do not use. The texture and feel of that lube reminded me of the "Gear Lube" type case lubes that were so popular 30 years ago. Do you use Imperial for everything? If so how do you get it off the case? I like it alot but find my self wiping each case with a rag, damp with rubbing alcohol. Do you have a better way that you would like to share. Thanks!

    It goes right back to Bounty paper towels doing the clean up, and I still use them for cleaning bores instead of buying patches.
    The towels wipe the Imperial off with hardly any effort, but I only use a touch between my thumb and fore finger to apply it...
  • B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks! The rule I use with Imperial is that you should be able to feel it but not see it. If you can see it you're using too much. I will try dry paper towells next time around.[:)] Sirknight-Sorry for hijacking the thread. I hope you realize that you caused all this and any discussion of alternative case lubes is purely for your educational benefit![;)][:(][}:)]
  • sirgknightsirgknight Member Posts: 109 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I was truely the beneficiary here....no apologies required. I seem to learn something from someone each and every day on this forum, not to mention the wonderful people I converse with.
  • bugmantraapbugmantraap Member Posts: 79 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you guys want to remove lube quickly and easily. Spray a rag with WD-40. Wipe the completed cartridges off. It take it off very nicely. Store it in a coffee can with a lid and you won't need to spray it for a couple of months.
  • opieoneopieone Member Posts: 103 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't load big quantities, but I'm still using the same rcbs pad I've had for 30 years. I'm about out of the original case lube.
    I have washed the pad a number of times, and have never had a stuck case, or any marks on the cases.
  • CryptoChiefCryptoChief Member Posts: 100 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have found, in my limited experience that "dirty" to some goes only suface deep. Some contaminates that are unseen or otherwise overlooked can become embedded in the fabric of the pad and can, over time, lead to scratches in the sizing die(s) which puts scratches on the casings. If you intend to continue using pads they are not that expensive. I've been using them for over 30 years and I simply replace them when I get down to one or two clean ones left. Also, keep your pad tray and lid clean. They can transfer dirt and other undesireables back to the pad.

    Vic
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