In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Reloading for 223 (ar15)
Odawgp
Member Posts: 5,380 ✭✭
With the cost of ammo nearly 200 bucks per 1000 for the russian crap, and the lake city ammo becoming almost unabtainable, not to mention in upwards of 500 bucks for 1000 rnds.
q- what would be the pros and cons of reloading in bulk for the AR15?
COST being the first PRO that i can see. just so that you can see where i have come up with that. I have 1000+ pieces of brass..
2.lbs bl-c2 powder=700reloads @20grea $32
55gr sierra blts 700ct= $92.75
Primers 1000 cci 22.95@ .22 eachfor700=$15.40
.................................total$140.15= .20 per round.
q- what would be the pros and cons of reloading in bulk for the AR15?
COST being the first PRO that i can see. just so that you can see where i have come up with that. I have 1000+ pieces of brass..
2.lbs bl-c2 powder=700reloads @20grea $32
55gr sierra blts 700ct= $92.75
Primers 1000 cci 22.95@ .22 eachfor700=$15.40
.................................total$140.15= .20 per round.
Comments
I can't think of any cons. I have loaded 223 for years. I have gotten bullets cheaper by buying them in bulk when I find them on sale.
Same here, but as of late i have noticed that regular price is double what it has been in the passed. Cheap ammo is starting to be a thing of the passed. I don't hunt with the AR. i just plink and shoot STUFF, I reload 22-250,243 for varmit hunting and what is to close for that i blast with the 17hmr.
I didn't know if there was anything i should watch out for as far as the technical side of reloading ie, tolerances like OAL?
-# of times i can reload a case?
-would/do i need to clean the primer pockets out of every case?
for instance I don't clean the primer pockets on any of my pistol brass. and have reloaded 1000's of rounds without a misfire.
I know that some AR chambers very slightly and aren't always the same as say a bolt action rifle chambered in 223.
www.hi-techammo.com
Check out this guy. He has some good prices. You can get tracers for as little as $25 per 1,000.
www.hi-techammo.com
[:p] I like his prices, even he is seeing a short supply, it looks like. i'll keep and eye on him
thanks
I prefer H335 but BLC(2) will work fine. I usually load around the 25g area for 55g bullets. Winchester 55g fmj bullets are usually priced pretty cheap still especially if you can get the bulk ones less then half of the Sierras if you want HP bullets look at the Remingtons.
I reload thousands of 223's for my AR's every year. Make sure you use a factory crimp die and it will help accuracy and reliability.
I prefer H335 but BLC(2) will work fine. I usually load around the 25g area for 55g bullets. Winchester 55g fmj bullets are usually priced pretty cheap still especially if you can get the bulk ones less then half of the Sierras if you want HP bullets look at the Remingtons.
Thats the kinda inside info im looking for... i had just picked a load out of the book and priced it. And just doing that i was still cheaper than buying bulk ammo at today's prices anyway. I hadn't gotten down to getting the cheapest of componets yet but thanks for the head up... H335 or blc(2) either or, both are spherical and pour out of a dropper like water thats what i am looking for.
thanks
Also even though it is hard to find surplus powder right now you can get both H335 and BLC(2) surplus. H335 is known as WCC844 or WC844 and BLC(2) is WCC846 or WC846. You can usually buy 4 8lb jugs with 1 hazmat fee. This makes the powder pretty economical.
This is getting better and better, I'll keep an eye out for the surplus stuff.
http://www.patsreloading.com/patsrel/prices.htm
They have the WC844 and WC846 in bulk as well as bulk .223 bullets.
Also; getting pulled bullets and surplus powder can save you even more.
I started to resize I realized that I was going to have to pull each one out of the press and check the length
I have watched a lot of you tube videos and I don't see anyone trimming their brass
As stated above I load several thousand 223's a year and the OAL guage makes things much easier. You can also use it to check loaded rounds to insure that they will work. IF you keep your brass seperated by firings you can usually go a couple of times before needing to check them again. I have a buddy that does it this way and he just checks his loaded ammo in the guage. He has to pull a round once in awhile. Don't forget the factory crimp die.
Do youself a big favour and buy a 223 OAL guage. I have one from Dillon. Use it as a seperate step in the process and you can help with several potential issues at once. 1. The guage will check length and if the case sticks out it needs to be trimmed. 2. It will allow you to inspect the cases for cracks as you are handling them (some cracks aren't visible until after you size the case). 3. It will show you if there are any dings that will not allow the case to fit in the chamber.
As stated above I load several thousand 223's a year and the OAL guage makes things much easier. You can also use it to check loaded rounds to insure that they will work. IF you keep your brass seperated by firings you can usually go a couple of times before needing to check them again. I have a buddy that does it this way and he just checks his loaded ammo in the guage. He has to pull a round once in awhile. Don't forget the factory crimp die.
10-4 on the OAL guage & FC die
Do you use a progressive press to load bulk 223? (I think I remember you saying you did)
If so do you resize & trim as a separate operation?
I read some where that most case stretching happens in the resize die
as it is pulled out and over the expander ball
then I watch all these videos of guys showing off their progressive and they do it all in one and I haven't seen one yet were they check the cases for length before they load it up
1. I size on my RCBS (being able to use my left hand).
2. I clean the lube from my cases.
3. I swage primer pockets if needed.
4. I use my OAL guage to check length and for defects.
5. I trim if needed and chamfer case mouths if trimmed.
6. I store these in tubs ready to run through my 550.
Doing it this way allows me to inspect cases several times and in the last 10 years and upwards of 50-75 thousand rounds I have not had a single stoppage or split case. If you only have your progressive press and would like to try it this way just add the sizing die alone and run the cases around the turret like normal. If using 1 fire cases that you have to swage anyway you can't really use the progressive until the pockets are taken care of.
When I am ready to load all I have to do is run the 550 without the sizing die and prime and load like normal. Less mess and it is faster with less stress on my arm.
Usually those guys are using new brass. You can run without checking length and just use the OAL guage when you are done loading but then you may have to pull some loads if they are to long. I am happy with overkill when I load and to have a better end product I don't mind adding a couple of extra steps.
thanks again
1. Using the factory crimp die helps with OAL of the case and will allow a little fudge room. LEE states "Trim length is not critical. However be certain that your cases are no longer than specifications as a case excessively long will pinch the bullet in the end of your gun's chamber and casue excessive pressures."
2. You could also use an RCBS X sizing die. You can get them seperately or in a set. They are made to limit the growth of a case and allow for several more firings between trimming. I have not used one myself. IIRC they require you to trim all of your brass to a uniform length that is slightly below spec. This I decided was to much work to trim every piece of brass I have.
There is little I have not used in primers and powders and really all worked fine
I now use Wolf SRM primers which are $18.00 in 5 K lots.
The magnum is actually the same as the regular but has a thicker cup and was actually made specifically for the AR-15.
They have been as good as any primer I have used and are cheaper.
I also switched powder to RamShot TAC. It is clean and meters as good as any being ball.
It is also cheaper with RamShot (made by Western Powder who makes a lot of factory ammo powder) trying to break in to the reloading business (They recently bought Accurate Powder)
It is $105.00 for 8LBs so why not buy fresh compared to milsurp which may not be available for long at this point.
For 55gr I use 25gr TAC to duplicate a factory load.
Wulfmann
"Fools learn from their own mistakes. I learn from the mistakes of others"
Otto von Bismarck
II now use Wolf SRM primers which are $18.00 in 5 K lots.
Wulfmann
were are you getting these primers?
I buy everything threw a wholesaler here but he doesn't know were to get these