Primer problems reloading 500 S&W?

jcook01

All

I recently ran into a 30% misfire rate while at the range. Many of my cases have been reloaded four or five times now but don't appear to show damage either in the pocket or the rim of the case.

Since day one insertion of the large rifle primers into the cases has been a chore compared to all other caliber I've loaded so maybe this last bunch I exerted too much force while priming.

All cases are star line marked for large rifle. The federal primers that I had been using were about 20 years old, however the first couple of reloads my misfire rate was almost negligible. After the last trip to the range I threw the remaining federal primer lot in the trash and have been using CCI's that I recently purchased. I haven't had a chance to get back to the range to test fire the CCIs.

Should I have to exert a lot more force on the press when reloading 500 S&W? Even when loading brand new brass the primers load hard when compared to 357 or 45acp.

At the range, many of the misfires would fire if one or two subsequent attempts to fire were performed. After the first attempt to fire I didn't notice anything unusual about the firing pin mark on the primer.

Anyone have first hand criticism/comments they can share? I hate pulling bullets.

Regards, John

reloader44mag

Out of about 250 reloaded rounds out of my 500S&W I have had one round FTF one the first time around. I use CCI BR-2 large rifle primers. When I prime mine I find that alittle more force is required but not that noticeable. I would try your batch with the new primers and see what type of results you get. Typically when you have a FTF and it goes on the second time around the primer was not seated deep enough. Try cleaning out your primer pockets that may help. good luck

perry shooter

Hello I don't know if you are using any case lube when you are sizing your cases but if so and you get any on your fingers and then touch a primer it can cause MIS FIRES

jcook01

I do use case lube but I clean my cases via tumbler afterwards.

I don't think I've contaminated them with lube but thanks for the tip.

I do use a primer pocket cleaning tool to clear out any carbon build up in the pocket prior to tumbling.

I think it has to be seating pressure related or seating depth related. I've only had a handful of bullets the last year that would not fire (20 year old primers) so I really don't think that it is pressure related (could be wrong, not enough experience yet.) More than likely I'm not getting the primer seated all the way. I say this because a subsequent fire attempt would set off the rounds. I remember pulling up pretty hard on the single stage press to make sure the primers were seated all the way in. I run my finger over the bottom of the case of seating and usually tell when the primer isn't inserted completely.

Obviously I'm not doing something right when it comes to the 500 S&W, my other reloading efforts approach 100% yields.

Considering the amount of effort required to seat the primers maybe a pocket unifrom tool is in order, no experience here at all. Time to go read.

Thanks for the comments.

Tailgunner1954

As this is not a high volume situation, you might consider uniforming the primer pockets.
It sounds like a combination of tight primer pockets and shallow seating the primers (as a result of the tight pockets). Pick up a "primer pocket uniformer" and process all your primer pockets with it. This would only be a one time operation BTW.
The brush only cleans out the residue, the uniformer will cut the sides of the pockets to a uniform diameter and depth.

mrbruce

You sure don't want to cut the sides of the primer pocket at all, the uniformer just cuts the bottom to a set depth, and will not cut the side walls.

jcook01

Range report:

I fired about 50 rounds today, only one FTF, and that wss from a previous batch of reloads.

All of the new reloads with the new CCI primers worked OK, no FTF.

Thanks for all the feedback.

reloader44mag

jcook, whats your recipe for your 500S&W loads? I've got a couple I've had good success with.

jcook01

Plinker (very economical)
Raineer 335 Grain lead safe Pumpkin
14 Grains of Hodgdon Titegroup

Max Raineer speed load
Raineer 335 Grain lead safe Pumpkin
19 Grains of Hodgdon Titegroup

Hot load (expensive but fun to shoot longer distance bench rest)
Hornady XTP 350 Hollow Point
41 grains of H110 (2 grains under the max load)

Enjoy

reloader44mag

jcook. I have yet to use a lead/plated bullet in my loads might have to try your Rainier loads. here are a few of mine. all of the following use Hornady brass and CCI BR-2 large rifle primers. 17.0gr Titegroup, 350gr. Hornady XTP, OAL 1.985..this load is easy on the hand...next 39.0gr. WW296, 350gr. Hornady XTP, OAL 1.985..this load is hot but still under max..And the punisher 41.0gr H110, 385gr. Remington JHP cor-lokt bullet, OAL 2.170. ALL of my reloads go thru a S&W 500S&W with a 4" barrel. primers show NO signs of pressure issues.

jcook01

The Raineer's are very economical, I buy them in bulk from MidwayUSA.

My 500 is a 6.5" fully compensated Performance Center Hunter style model. I'm not sure I'd want to fire a hot load through your 4" model, definately not from the survival model.

Enjoy

glabray

Have you installed a lower tension main spring in the gun?

jcook01

For what purpose?