reloading question

mudd_bogger

what can i do to make my loads more accurate? have been thinking about turning the necks,using a neck bushing die,micrometer seating die an not crimping the case. am i on the right track or just wasting money

mudd_bogger

I've thought about getting reloading equipment for my .357, but I'm unsure on what all I'm going to need. Does anyone have any advice for a newbie?
GH1[:)]

mudd_bogger

As many of you know I have recently started reloading. I have learned alot of different things by reading around on the internet and watching youtube videos. I have one question that i can not find an answer to, and i was wondering if you guys could help me. I have a Lee Colet Dye set for .270 WIN and when i'm done seating the bullet, i can easily push the bullet down inside the case (when i say "easy" i mean with like less than 2 lbs of force). Is this normal?!? I want to get a factory crimp dye, but i dont have any bullets with a cannelure.
Can you only crimp bullets with a cannelure?? I'm thinking about getting the lee factory crimp dye. But i'm wondering if this will solve my problem.

Thanks for any advice.

mudd_bogger

Helped Dad reload many years ago and got myself into it a few years ago with a mentor to bring me up to date. I load or will be loading 22 Hornet, 222, 223, 7mm TCU, 308, 30-06, and 7mm Mag.

I have a Sierra 3rd and 10th, Hornady 7th, Speer 10th, and Lyman 46th.

Are there any I don't have that I should get?

mudd_bogger

I am interested in reloading 9, 40, 45 pistol rounds and 270, 30-06, 7 Mag and 30-30. What would be the best powder. Also which takes small and large primers.

Also about how many 45 rounds would be in 1 pound of powder.

Also about how many 7 Mag rounds would be in a pound of powder.

Thanks David

mudd_bogger

I am new to reloading:

I was full length resizing and decapping some .223 once fired brass.
I had previously cleaned it in stainless steel media.
I broke a decapping pin and thought maybe i had a crimped in primer? So i took a look at the case and this was not the case. so i replaced the pin and continued. About a dozen cases later same thing happens. So i look in the case and i see 2-3 stainless pins wedged in the bottom of the case. Heres the question: 1. What are the ramifications of the pins remaining in the case(I.E. missed when i decapped the case)2.Has anybody else had this issue? If so what is the remedy for correcting this...short of the obvious answer which is visually inspect every case or stop using S.S. media. Thanks for you help.

ChetStafford

What kind of groups are you getting now?

have you tried adjusting your oal?

loading rifle or pistol?

what cartridges?

JustC

try ditching the crimp first.

RCrosby

+1 on losing the crimp. The other things you mentionned may (or may not) make a measurable difference once you have a good basic load. Before you try any of those, your time would be better spent working with things like OAL, powder charge, different bullets, and anything you can do to keep the reloading process consistent from one round to the next; i.e. don't mix brass, uniform case length, accurate charge weights, etc.

Mort4570

Sometimes it's the shooter not the gun.Have you had others shoot your gun and load,and were their results the same?
Since I"m not the worlds' best shot,I have often had other shooters do better than I can with my guns.If they do,then I leave the load alone and get a bigger target. lol

sandwarrior

mudd_bogger,

I' leaning towards what rcrosby said. Find the most accurate load you can using powder, primers, consistent length and weight brass and seating depth. If using VLD type bullets you need to learn how to load them into the lands. That usually means starting at the bottom of the load chart and expecting to hit max somewhere in middle...or just above.

As far as neck turning and bushing dies, you would need to figure out neck-thickness and how tight you want the bullet to be held in the case. In Benchrest the bullets are usually only held just enough that the bullet will stay in place by itself. It can be pushed in or pulled out by hand. This isn't practical in any kind of field gun. You should have at least .002" hold on the bullets. Most factory bullets have some kind of crimp on the case neck as well as a .006"-.008" undersized neck. You shouldn't do that. Try measuring your brass inside the neck after you've resized it. A lot of my RCBS dies are around .005"-.006" and my Redding dies are more like .003"-.004" undersize. Standard Lee dies run about the same as the RCBS. And the Collet dies can be adjust to as light as you want.

As far as the Micrometer die for seating that is just a convenience item. You can still adjust a good quality standard die in or out base on thread length. You just have to do the math and then verify with small turns how much it does turn. As noted the main thing with a seating die is that it puts the bullet in alignment with the case before it pushes it into the case. That way when you pull a finished case out of the die the runout is minimal. That is the end goal anyways. -hope that helps