Crimping

shoff14

What are the rules for crimping?

All the die sets I received are just standard dies, no crimping dies. It seems that you need to crimp for autos and you don't have to for bolts is this the general rule of thumb? Or can I get away without crimping and see if it will feed in the autos? Rounds in question are any handgun round, but also .223.

perry shooter

IMHO a taper crimp die is a must for semi auto Pistols .They help a great deal in eliminating Feed problems. Roll crimps cause more problems then they cure.

shoff14

quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
IMHO a taper crimp die is a must for semi auto Pistols .They help a great deal in eliminating Feed problems. Roll crimps cause more problems then they cure.


Even with Lee carbide seaters?

sandwarrior

shoff14,

Remember a number of semi-auto pistol rounds headspace on the lip of the case too. So roll criming isn't the way to go for semi-auto loads. You can use it better for rimmed cases that headspace off the rim...specifically revolvers. But, taper crimping works fine in them too. Taper crimping is what I use for .45 ACP, .45 LC, and 40 S&W.

shoff14

What type of crimp does the Lee carbide dies do?

sandwarrior

Mine are all taper

shoff14

Ok, so I am good to go then.

What about .223? for auto? for bolt?

I picked up a Lee .223 2 set today for 10 bucks. One of the chamberings that I didn't receive.


I was able to get about 200 cases of 9mm sized and cleaned, another 2 hundred to go. I think I want to figure this handgun stuff out first, then move onto the rifles. Seems there is a lot more involved.

I also need to figure out how to get the cases trimmer to work. I must have 20 different sizes, but don't know how it all goes together.

Tailgunner1954

quote:Originally posted by shoff14
What are the rules for crimping?

All the die sets I received are just standard dies, no crimping dies.

I also need to figure out how to get the cases trimmer to work. I must have 20 different sizes, but don't know how it all goes together.



Taper crimp for auto-loading pistols (taper resists setback best)
Roll crimp for revolvers (roll resests pullout the best)
Crimp tube mag and "Heavy Recoiling" rifles
Those are the only "hard and fast" rules on crimping
For other rifles, you need to see weather your rifle prefers a crimped or uncrimped bullet.

The seating die has crimping built in, How much it crimps (or if it crimps at all) is controled by how you set up the die.

It sounds like you have the LEE trimmer, the knurled steel piece and the cutter are used with all cases, the shell holder is selected to match the rim of what your trimming, and the measuring stem according to the "trim length" of the cartridge your working. Screw the shell holder onto the knurled piece and the measuring stem into the cutter.
Insert a SIZED/DEPRIMED case into the shell holder and finger tighten, than insert the cutter assy. into the mouth and twist until it stops cutting. BTW, there is no need to trim pistol or revolver brass (unless you just want to wear out your wrist)

jtmarine0831

Most all brands seater dies crimp if properly set up right minus competition seaters. And as a rule of thumb the crimping style in a seater is different(roll or taper) depending on the cartridge. I personally use Lee factory crimp dies for the rifles I crimp on(5.56, 7.62, and 30-30 are my big ones) and their Factory Carbide Crimp dies for all my pistols, these dies feature a carbide sizing ring in them that sizes the case again on the way out after the bullet has been crimped to insure that the case hasn't bulged during crimping and cause issue in your firearm. These crimp dies are a seperate step from seating, so it takes a little extra time. The great thing about the Lee Factory Crimp dies for rifles is that it is a collet style die so trim lenght does not have to be "PERFECT" from case to case as it does to get uniform crimp with the crimp function in seater dies.

perry shooter

Hello IMHO on straight walled pistol ammo you can not have one die to seat the bullet & crimp at the same time Think about it you are moving the loaded case with bullet in it in the seating die. now say this same die is trying to crimp "Closeing the previous belled case mouth" the bullet is still being pushed in the case as the case mouth is closed this shaves a small ring of lead and puts it on the front of the case mouth [:(!][xx(][:(]. Unless you have all cases trimmed to within .001 when you roll crimp some cases will be crimped harder then others if your longest case is even .020 longer the the shortest then the correct crimp for the short case will result with a bulged case on the longest case.[xx(][V][:(!][:(] Pistol cases get shorter each time you fire not longer like Bottle neck rifle cases . A taper crimp die used after the seater die seats the bullet is the way to go [^][:p]

jtmarine0831

quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
Hello IMHO on straight walled pistol ammo you can not have one die to seat the bullet & crimp at the same time Think about it you are moving the loaded case with bullet in it in the seating die. now say this same die is trying to crimp "Closeing the previous belled case mouth" the bullet is still being pushed in the case as the case mouth is closed this shaves a small ring of lead and puts it on the front of the case mouth [:(!][xx(][:(]. Unless you have all cases trimmed to within .001 when you roll crimp some cases will be crimped harder then others if your longest case is even .020 longer the the shortest then the correct crimp for the short case will result with a bulged case on the longest case.[xx(][V][:(!][:(] Pistol cases get shorter each time you fire not longer like Bottle neck rifle cases . A taper crimp die used after the seater die seats the bullet is the way to go [^][:p]



+++++![;)]